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Help! Need help with Remington 798
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I just bought a Remington 798 in 375 H&H. Now I need some help cleaning it up.

1. How do I dissassemble the bolt. It will not come apart like my K98. Bolt sleeve will not turn counterclocklwise.

2, What is the third allen screw under the barrel. How do I get it out?

3. How can I slick up the action?

Any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,

Al
 
Posts: 267 | Location: Kingsville, Texas 78363 | Registered: 19 June 2008Reply With Quote
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I bought one about a year ago, and took an elephant with it last month. So, I like mine.

You can search Arniet in the Big Bore topic, and find more of my comments.

For the bolt, hook the cocking piece over the porch railing and pull down and you will see a small hole. A nail, tack, or small allen wrench goes through the hole. Depress the plunger and unscrew. When you reassemble, make sure you turn it all the way back in, or you will get missfires. You need a copy of the Interarms Mark X manual. It is better then the Remington 798 book. Find Steves Pages on the net, he has this manual and other treasures posted. Sorry I do not have the link on this machine. Maybe someone else can help.

If your 798 is like mine, is the third screw the one at the front of the bottom metal? On mine it took a long allen wrench and a lot of force. OK, maybe a wrench extension (cheater pipe). This goes into the mauser recoil lug, through a epoxied in metal bedding block. The allen screw had epoxy on it, so you might break it and get some easy out practice (I do not like working on hardened bolts in softer metal). So, if yours is like mine, force will do it, but you may pay a price.

To slick up the action, I found a plastic rod with the same radius as the bolt lugs. Slotted it, and used very fine sandpaper to slick up the raceways. (midway sells a tool, for about $30 if I remember right). I then used my wife's emory boards, sandpaper and valve grinding compound where each worked the best to just break all the rough edges. I then polished the scratches with 0000 steel wool, and with 2 hours of effort she is a slick rifle.

You can also take it to a smith, who will do all of the above for some money.

Best luck,

Arniet
 
Posts: 373 | Registered: 11 March 2006Reply With Quote
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I got the two allen screws in the action out. There's a third allen screw where the front sling swivel should be. There is a small metal post in it so you can't use a regular allen wrench to get it out. I was afraid to try to force the action out, is there some trick to it?
 
Posts: 267 | Location: Kingsville, Texas 78363 | Registered: 19 June 2008Reply With Quote
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Be sure to post pictures, Al!

Congratulations!


Rusty
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Posts: 9797 | Location: Missouri City, Texas | Registered: 21 June 2000Reply With Quote
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The screw in the front sounds like a torx security. Sears and other tool stores will seal the bits. They got a little hole in the center.
 
Posts: 373 | Registered: 11 March 2006Reply With Quote
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http://www.surplusrifle.com/sh...isassembly/index.asp

I can disassemble and assemble M98 bolts with my eyes closed. And that protects me from flying shrouds.
 
Posts: 9043 | Location: on the rock | Registered: 16 July 2005Reply With Quote
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Pics of the 798:



pic of the 3rd allen screw:

 
Posts: 267 | Location: Kingsville, Texas 78363 | Registered: 19 June 2008Reply With Quote
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That style of bolt is called "tamper-proof torx". You can usually find bits for them. I had to have similar ones to take apart a steering column.
 
Posts: 445 | Location: Michigan | Registered: 02 January 2006Reply With Quote
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As mentioned, that is a "tamper proof" torx screw.

The best way to deal with them is to use an awl and break the center post off, and then you can use a regular torx bit on it. Just put the tip of the awl in between the post and one of the "points" in edge and bend it a little, then move opposite and bend it back the other way. When it breaks off there will probably be a little spur sticking up, often you can put the screw in a vise and with a 1/4" torx bit tap it with a small hammer and flatten the spur out or just replace the screw.


for every hour in front of the computer you should have 3 hours outside
 
Posts: 7777 | Location: Between 2 rivers, Middle USA | Registered: 19 August 2000Reply With Quote
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Or you can do some research and buy a set of tamper-proof torx bits. I have a set I bought from a hardware store.


John Farner

If you haven't, please join the NRA!
 
Posts: 2947 | Location: Corrales, NM, USA | Registered: 07 February 2001Reply With Quote
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My issue with that is if you plan to actually use a gun, it should not require special tools for disassembly due to non-standard fasteners.

Also, after opening my eyes and looking closely at the pic, this appears to be a tamper proof Allen screw and not a torx fastener.


for every hour in front of the computer you should have 3 hours outside
 
Posts: 7777 | Location: Between 2 rivers, Middle USA | Registered: 19 August 2000Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Mark:
My issue with that is if you plan to actually use a gun, it should not require special tools for disassembly due to non-standard fasteners.


I absolutely agree! I'd throw it away after I took it out and replace with a common type screw.


John Farner

If you haven't, please join the NRA!
 
Posts: 2947 | Location: Corrales, NM, USA | Registered: 07 February 2001Reply With Quote
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