Who puts grease on the back of their lugs on a bolt rifle, why/ why not?

Personally, .. use oil since there's less attraction to dust, debris.

Remember the old rule, slop on oil, then wipe off all you can.... You then have proper lubrication.

No one. Just lube them like the rest of the bolt, I use CLP; and that will quickly wear off.
No reason to use grease; it is not a sealed bearing. And grease will just gum up things and could get into the chamber, a bad thing.
No do not "slop" on oil! There is a better word for that. Apply.

quote:

No do not "slop" on oil! There is a better word for that. Apply.

You guys are too funny
I don't think Mr.Wiebe meant it that way, the wipe off all you can ending was clear.
BB

I use high pressure grease on the back of my competition guns because they get cycled so much between cleanings. It was just something that I was taught when I started shooting competitively 40+ years ago.

I have some nuclear grade NeoLube (colloidal graphite suspended in alcohol) that I wipe on the back of the lugs of most of my hunting bolt rifles. I started doing that on stainless steel guns to prevent galling before I remembered that 400 series stainless is not austenitic and thus not susceptible to galling. But it still lubes well so I continue to use it.

Oil on the single shots, AR's, lever guns, etc..

CLP is all the Army uses on all weapons from small arms to tank cannons. And is all I use, or need. They did not have exotic lubricants for the 91 Mauser and I still use lots of those; no wear or issues noted.
(I build 450 Bushmasters on them; super smooth and fast bolt action.)

quote:

Originally posted by bigbull:

quote:

No do not "slop" on oil! There is a better word for that. Apply.

You guys are too funny
I don't think Mr.Wiebe meant it that way, the wipe off all you can ending was clear.
BB

Uh, hu. I use my oil bottle then wipe it down, you end up with an oil saturated cloth and a light, even "application". Same thing, different language.

OP, grease would imply a long term lube. Thats not the way. Clean your rifle after every session. When in use, no lube at all is better than grit.

I've been using the spray 'dry' lube that came out of our military being in 'sand land' for so long. Spray it on the bolt and let it dry.

Lubrcaion HAS changed..I ran acoss an old LC SMITH brochure (or manual) that advised the use of 3 in 0ne oil..even on the stock!



SLOP..as in "apply generously HAR!

Back in the hills they used to recommend rendered bear fat.
And the TM for the 1863 Rifle-Musket calls for Sperm Oil.

ATF was developed to replace the whale oils used in the early automatic transmissions. As a gun oil, it's very effective and inexpensive as well.

ATF is superb lubricant and therefore a fine gun oil.

I put a small amount of grease on the lugs of my centerfire rifles, every time I clean them.

quote:

Originally posted by Matt Norman:
I've been using the spray 'dry' lube that came out of our military being in 'sand land' for so long. Spray it on the bolt and let it dry.

outside of traveling to very wet conditions that has become my method.

[QUOTE]Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):
Lubrcaion HAS changed..I ran acoss an old LC SMITH brochure (or manual) that advised the use of 3 in 0ne oil..even on the stock!



SLOP..as in "apply generously HAR![

That is the treatment my grandfather gave all his Greener and L c smith shotguns I now have. Stocks are in bad shape needless to say.

thanks for all the opinions .

quote:

Originally posted by Michael Robinson:
ATF is superb lubricant and therefore a fine gun oil.

No argument there...I understand, up until about 1970, whale oil was used in ATF and the later "lifeime" ATF has mineral oil.


Probably not much of the whale oil ATF aound, but mineral oil is a very fine lube. Look closely a the 3 in one ingredient...simply mneral oil! I buy mineral oil by the pint at the drug store amd it sees much use as a general lubricant in the shop...For whet stones, can't be beat

eny: Off subject a bit ,. but with patience and perserverence, the oil can pretty much be extracted from your stock, and would be worthwhile to do it .

I had a lug gall in a competition once. It felt like sand in the action at first, then got bad. I use moly grease now and no problems. It takes very little.

I use light motor oil on the firing pin assembly. Grease or thicker oils can cause ignition problems in cold weather by slowing down the pin travel.

I used "Snake Oil" from Dillion. A little bit goes a long way. Started using Lucas gun oil. I have tried a lot of different oils on my grand father clock. They all would gum up and stop the chime. Lucas was great because of the small bottle and metal applicator. After an application of Lucas the Chime has not stopped and it has been a long time!

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):
eny: Off subject a bit ,. but with patience and perserverence, the oil can pretty much be extracted from your stock, and would be worthwhile to do it .

Thank you. I picked one and am going to sell the rest. Too many projects, so little time

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):
I buy mineral oil by the pint at the drug store amd it sees much use as a general lubricant in the shop...For whet stones, can't be beat

Im pretty sure that is mostly what sewing machine oil is, Ive used that in a pinch.

I picked up a bottle of this . Its just mineral oil with rust inhibitors. One bottle will last me for years.

quote:

Originally posted by jpl:
I had a lug gall in a competition once. It felt like sand in the action at first, then got bad. I use moly grease now and no problems. It takes very little.

I use light motor oil on the firing pin assembly. Grease or thicker oils can cause ignition problems in cold weather by slowing down the pin travel.

For some mechanisms graphite dust works pretty well. I like to use it on my model 88 in those hard to service areas.