Kurt is switching from its classic D688 mill vise to a new one at about the same price. The guy that now has my mill and lathe doesn't have a vise, and is on a fixed income. I have been saving a hundred dollars a month for a vise fund. There is a scratch and dent sale going on at Kurt right now. $469.99 + free shipping caught my eye. When I croak, my wife can get a good price for the vise.

Anyway, here is the URL for the sale page:
https://www.amazon.com/D688-SD...1-19&keywords=kurt+6

And, there are some good prices on used D688s over on Flea bay, as well.

Good choice. Pretty hard to beat a Kurt.

Here is the URL for used Kurt D688 and D675 vises:

http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html...2+mill+vise&_sacat=0

A decent used D688 is only $45.00 cheaper than this new one.
A decent used D675 is about $130.00 cheaper than the new D688.

I like having the warranty. I had no buyers remorse today. I have always been willing to do without fancy clothes, or meals out in order to save enough $$ to afford the best quality gear, be it fly rods, Sako AV Hunter rifles, and power tools that I built a house, and the clinic with, a while back.
If you need a vise, and can only afford a used vise, now is the time to jump. The serious, and seriously busy machine shops are all trading in their D675 and D688 vises for the new model. Right now is a window in time where the market is flooded. That is good for anyone who wants a good vise. I looked at a Conquest model vise, and some other knock offs from the US, Taiwan, and Chicom land. That made my decision easier. I am pissed that they didn't throw a baseball hat in with the free shipping.

The FedEx lady drove up in her truck today and transferred the vise to the bed of my pickup truck. Heavy bastard. That Bridgeport is not likely to blow away in the spring winds around here.

The Kurt D688 bench vise is installed, and in use. This was supposed to be a scratch and dent sale (for over $100.00 under normal price). All I can say is: what scratch? What dent? The unit looks perfect, and functions at least that perfect. I believe Kurt is just trying to sell off its factory stock of D688 vises, to make way for the new model of vise that just made its debut. The swivel base is equally beautiful. My buddy and I will not use that until I am milling out epoxy from the magazine well of some stocks (The swivel assembly raises the vise high enough that the toe of the stock does not bump into the table.).

What is a good model of tapping guide to put in the quill to help keep the tap turning straight while using some down positioning of the quill to slightly compress the whole assembly?

Because I want to tram in the Kurt vise directly, I will be getting a two dial indicator tramming assembly with five inches between centers. With the vise slightly open, I can tarm the vise's bed. With the jaws closed, or nearly so, I can tram at 90 degrees to the original direction. Voila. the vise itself is trammed.

Is accuracy to 0.001" adequate, or is it worthwhile to pay $20.00 extra for indicators that will get me down to within 0.0005" of true?

I looked at all sorts of heavy steel circles to tram with a dial test indicator while hand turning the unit. The rub is spending money to get "The Great Circle" ground to better than 0.0005" true. Also, I still wouldn't be able to tram in the actual vise in its position of use. Over the years I picked up depth micrometers, work holding jigs and Vee-blocks, Albrecht keyless chucks, Etalon dial test indicators, plain Starrett indicators, Mitutoyo and Etalon micrometers of varying sizes, and on and on. Patience and a good sniper program make for a powerful team. Now we can hit the bricks running...


The Chain Home radar receiver sets that helped detect enemy airplanes flying toward Britain had trouble figuring out the actual numbers, and type of aircraft. The aircraft spotting corps helped fill in this gap in Radar coverage. These two spotters were a team in all that they did.

Congrats on the new vice. Why all the trouble indicating it in? I just put an indicator in the spindle, then run it along the back jaw to get it parallel with the table travel. Maybe I don't understand what you're doing.

Starret used to make a good tap center. It's basically a spring loaded pin with a 60 degree point that you put in the back end of the tap or tap handle. Starret stuff is made in china now, so maybe a cheapie chineze one is the same.

quote:

What is a good model of tapping guide to put in the quill to help keep the tap turning straight while using some down positioning of the quill to slightly compress the whole assembly?

Does your mill not have the capability to power tap? Power tapping is slicker than greased owl snot.

Thanks jpl. I'm sure I can power tap with the mill. This stuff is all new to me. Medicine I know, flying jets I know. Machine work is the last skill I will learn in this life.