At the range yesterday my 686 had a number of misfires,generally 2 misfires per 6 shots.I kept track of the misfired cylinders and it didn't matter.One volley #1 and 3 didn't fire,next volley 4 and 5 didn't light off.Next volley,well,you get the picture.There is no rhyme or reason as far as the cylinder number is concerned.Some of the rounds did fire on a second strike,some did not.The ones that did not fire,they lit right up when I fired them in a 640 centenial.Should mention that these are my handloads.Win.primers,Unique,Win cases.

The 686 had a trigger job done at the factory by the previous(original)owner very soon after he bought it.Said that a lighter spring(s)was/were installed.This piece has about 2000 rds. through it since I bought it.First owner said he shot it 200 times.As my stubby gun lights off these rounds without fail,is the 686 in need of new springs?And if you agree, how difficult is it to replace the spring(s)myself.I can get the cylinder off,and the side plate SEEMS pretty straight-forward.Its when (if) I get inside that kinda has me concerned.Opinions and help are needed.I think I could do this if I had some guidance.




thank you

First off just to eliminate the ammo as the cause try a box of factory loads. If they exhibit that same fail to fire condition then it may be something to do with the firing system. Just because they function in another revolver doesn't mean they're good. But if they fire with no problems I'd look at the condition of the primers, How deep are they seated, condition of the brass, etc.

Never done a mainspring replacement on a 686 So I can't say but from looking at the drawing it looks pretty straight forward.
Someone here with more pistol experience will chime in

DO NOT attempt to remove the side plate. You can seriously damage it if you don't know how to remove it correctly.

Instead, for now, look of the front of the grip frame, behind the trigger guard. You will see the head of a screw. Depending on which grips you have, you may have to remove them to access the screw. This is the strain screw. It sets the tension of the main spring. See if it will turn clockwise. Clockwise increases the tension and counter clockwise reduces it. Most people think by backing these screws out, that a smoother pull is achieved. What occurs a lot of the time are misfires.

Compare the firing pin indations to those in
cases fired by other pistols. People reduce
the mainspring force to lighten double action
trigger pull. Single action pill is mostly due to the rebound slide spring. Either can be set
for a nice unreliable trigger action.
Good Luck!

Try Federal primers instead of Winchester they seem to require less of a "thump".

Good trigger/spring jobs give a light pull and the cartridges still fire. Poor trigger jobs just waste you money and give unreliable ignition.

Usually the cheapest way to cure it is to simply put a standard factory specification mainspring back in.

However BEFORE you do that make sure that the true cause is that the previous owner hasn't done this "trigger job" by simply shortening he mainspring strain screw.

That's how most of these things were done. In which case just unscrew the now shortened strain screw out and replace with one of the correct, original, factory length.

To replace the strain screw you won't need to take the sideplate off. Just the grips to check the length of the screw in the gun against an standatd length screw in someone else's 686 to see if, in fact, it has been shortened.

Your gun should fire with ALL ammo, even with a trigger job. If the above fixes dont cure your problem, send it to a (qualified) gunsmith. you owe that to yourself and any possible future owners, should you get frustrated and sell it.

When working properly, the money will be a pittance, for the satisfaction of knowing its right

And if you get frustrated with it. I have a credit card ready and waiting $$$$$$$$$

OK, you all gave the best advise, now I'm waiting to hear from the original poster on what his problem really was?

quote:

Originally posted by Captain Finlander:
OK, you all gave the best advise, now I'm waiting to hear from the original poster on what his problem really was?

In other words guys, knock it off, Captain Finlander is waiting with baited breath for the official word.

I managed to get the side plate off without damaging it (I hadn't checked this thread before I started tinkering ,was 5:30a.m.when I started)However, the strain screw was backed out a little over a half turn.Screwed it back in,put the side cover on(what a PITA that operation was)yea,I know,I didn't have to take off the cover...live and learn.I hope that the loose screw was my problem.Makes sense as this misfire problem has been ongoing for awhile,just gradually getting worse over time,i.e. the screw getting looser as more rds. are fired.Thanks to all that responded.You guys are the best.

Westpac's instructions are entirely correct. If the trigger pull is smooth, the action job was a proper improvement. The mainspring strain screw in the frontstrap provides the ignition power while the rebound slide spring, under the sideplate, returns the trigger to the forward position. You want the hammer to fall with more than sufficient force to ignite the primer even if the action is somewhat heavier. Leave the sideplate in place and periodically cock the hammer and place a few drops of Breakfree CLP into the action to ensure reliable operation. As Chuck 1911 said, your revolver should fire with all (non-defective) primers.

I took the sideplate off a few of my S&Ws the past few months. There are instructions on u-tube or so & when done carefully it's not that big of a deal(tapped off). I have an early 90's vintage 686 & it was rather dry inside. I also bought a model 65 a while back that was ready for a good cleaning inside & light lube.

Sending it to a gunsmith can be a safe option, if it goes to the right one.