I am considering a #3 SS Shilen for a 7MM-08
Or a #2 SS Shilen for a 260 Remington.
I would have the smith trim at least 1" off the shank for starters and finish it at 23-24"
I want a light sporter barrel weighing no more than 40oz that will group consistently 3 shots around 3/4 and 5 shots in 1" or less.

I have limited experience in custom barrels, I had one Ruger 300WM rebarreled with a #4 Shilen C/M that was awesome.

I just don't want to go that heavy again.

Thanks
Dave

Not that it answers your question but my next barrel will be a #3. The #1 is way to light IMHO for all but high country hunting.

for a hunting rifle I always go the #1 or featherweight route.....but they mostly finish at 22".....and you want 24"

The accuracy of a light barrel is roughly the same as a heavy barrel.....it's a matter of personal preference. Don't get too exercised about the lighter barrel being less accurate.....there's nothing to suport that statement....at least where hunting accuracy is concerned.

A #3 Shilen is heavier than a standard barrel on a Rem 700 & a #2 is somewhat smaller at the muzzle, but due to the style of taper about the same weight as a 700 barrel.

IMHO there's not a factory taper I like. They all seem excessive around the breech. My smith takes a shihlen #3 and slims it around the breech 'swamp' and then eases the taper so that it appears more gradual.

My 6mm rem, 6.5x55 and 7x57 all have this taper applied to shihlens, are all 24" and all group 3 in half inch or less.

Dave, if I were doing this project it would be a #1 first and then the #2 contour. Should work just fine for what you are wanting. A lightweight barrel is going to work just fine as this doesn't sound like it will be a high round count varmit rig. Enjoy and lets see some pictures when completed.

I or should say the gunsmith just finished a 22-250AI with a #3 Shilen SS match barrel finished at 22" cut the shank of to get the contour I wanted. It's a nice light walk around rifle for the high country of Colorado for rock chucks. Our range goes to only 300yds and don't have any problem at 200yd but find really have to hold that rifle pretty hard at 300 and being as light as it is don't take much to be off target. Now for big game won't be a problem. I'd like to do a 284 but longer barrel so may be my next project. Well good luck.

For a lightweight barrel that shoots well, I like the barrel taper attributed to Burgess of .150" per foot. It results in a rapid taper the looks well and shoots well. I would go with a chamber cylinder .100 over thread size and 1 1/4 - 1 1/2 inch long. Transition with an 1 1/2" radius and taper at .150" per foot to a muzzle diameter of .250 over bore diameter. It will shoot well, look well and is about as light as you can go and still get a level of accuracy you will be satisfied with, given the installation is done well.

You can probably get a lighter barrel to shoot as well as a heavier one, but it gets easier the heavier and the stiffer the barrel is. That also means, the lighter the contour you choose, the shorter you may have to go (see further below).

Everybody have their own ideas of what is too heavy, just right and too light. I doubt you'll get two opinions that are much the same. One barrel maker (who obviously is often confronted with this question) suggests that you go at least .30" over caliber size for your muzzle diameter. A well known gun writer, suggests to go .36" over caliber size.

Well known rifle smith, Charlie Sisk had this to say about barrel contours over on 24 Hour Campfire: Thread containing Sisk advise on barrel contour and length. You'll have to scroll a bit to get to the top of the discussion.

Personally, I'm more of a "heavy barrel person". On my last project I went with a #3 contour on a .270 Win finished at 22". I don't find that contour to be excessive from an esthetic point of view. But naturally, the weight goes up a bit.

Btw, do you know of the spreadsheet to calculate barrel weights from Lilja's website?? Lilja Contour Page - With Link to Download Spreadsheet. Scroll down a bit...

Good luck - mike

I'd go with a 700 "mountain rifle" contour. Finished at 22.5 inches in either caliber. This is the lightest barrel contour I have used and it has proved to be capable (in half dozen or so different calibers) to be capable of 0.5 MOA, though three shots is all you can get before the barrel get quite hot. Pac-nor will do this contour for no extra charge - I've had them do so on three or four separate occasions in stainless.

Anyway, a #3 Shilen is WAY too heavy for a 7mm-08. Even a #2 is way too heavy. In fact, even a #1 Shilen weighs about as much as standard 700 contour because of its 2-3 inch straight barrel cylinder. I've had quite a number of #1-#4s. My 358 and 35 Whelen are built with #3 Shilens, and this, IMHO, is the perfect barrel for these two rounds.

Another thing - the Douglas featherweight is only slighty lighter than the standard 700 contour - it is not a true featherweight barrel. The 700 mountain rifle contour is a true featherweight barrel...

I put a #3 SS Shilen 7x57 on a Mauser. I wish I had used a #2. The #3 is really heavy.

Clemson

Whatever floats your boat.

However, 3" of lightweight sporter barrel weighs no where near 6-8 oz. I have a 2" section of #4 Shilen (35 caliber) that weighs just under 2 oz. I'll bet 3" of a lightweight barrel might weigh 2oz, maybe a touch more.

I would like short barrels, but volume goes up noticeably when you get now near 20" and lower. My ears are bad enough as it is...

length does matter.

I jjsut did a custom shilen #2 in 280 AI. it was too heavy. I had it custom fluted to take it to .100 minimum at an inch ahead of the 26 inch muzzle, and it is now balanced, accurate, and half pound lighter than it was.

A shillen #3 is a48 ounce barrel in your caliber, unless you lop it chop it crop it... I would go with a No1 or No 2 lightly fluted (say flutes of .04 depth). I had mine taken to .5 deep, and that may be a bit radical for stainless in cold climate areas. ALthough that leaves still a full caliber around the bore at a point about six inches ahead of the chamber end.

Jameister

I know I'm a pain in your butt, but this is about barrels.
(I'm still confused on ss as many of us are.)
If your fluteing was after market would that void the warranty?
Why flute instead of getting the manufacture to turn it
down a bit?
Would you get ss for a hunting rifle?
Just wondering, as I have both types of steel, the ss is
on a range rifle, and with the ss problem, I don't think
i'd go that way again.
With the solvents availible I don't think cleaning much of an issue. And the oils people boast of their rust preventive
properties.
I'm not trying to be smart here, and I think some hotshot
barrel makers only use ss. but is this stuff, and fluteing
a fashon, or a real use?
Sorry to have annoyed you previously, it's just my way of
thinking and writing. eg convoluted.
John L.

I have about decided to go to a #3 Shilen in a 260 chambering. Using Lilja's calculator if I chop the shank to 1.25 before threading and finish it at 23" it should come out at 40-42oz which is my target. I would rather it be a little heavy and less fussy than go lighter. If it didn't live up to expectations I would always wonder if heavier wouldn't have been better.

Dave