I've got a Wyoming Arms 10mm. The ejector is missing and the company is out of business. So I thought that I could just make an ejector myself. I've got a grinder and some files. Does anybody have advice on what kind of metal I should try to buy or how I should go about making this thing? Thanks.

Sean---

What is a Wyoming Arms 10mm?

It sounds like an auto pistol. What type ejector does it have? Fixed blade like a 1911 or plunger like a HSc?

Sean,

Do you even know what the part looks like or how it works? This particular design isn't frame mounted like the Colt pistols. I believe yours is a "Live" ejector which is "spring fed" into position as the slide cycles to the rear.

Auto loader ejectors are heat treated to withstand the abuse of rapid fire cycling. I have not actually performed a rockwell test on these but have cut a few with files and they appear to be somewheres in the neighborhood of RC 40+ would be my guess. You will need to make it out of something that is heat treatable like 4140.

Malm

well do you have the metal you intend to use yet? If so we would need to know what kind it is to give advice on how to heat treat it. If you dont know the metal, some advice may be given....since you have the inclination to do it yourself, if it doesnt come out right and breaks, you could just make another, right?(it shouldnt matter safety wise unless you use the gun for self defense ALOT)....I suggest making two at the same time...heat treat one...if it wears outs, then heat treat the second and leave a little harder...if the first one breaks, then temper the second more so......good luck....bob

sean---

Make it out of O-1 tool steel. Try it to make sure it works before HT.

I'm going to assume it should be in the Rc40-45 range.......

Heat the part to 1450 and quench in oil, repolish, float it in you lead pot for 5 min. It should turn a purple-blue and be Rc42.

Sean,

Depends on what material you use. But in general for that particular piece, get a coffee can of cold water. For that small of piece, straight water should be fine. Find yourself a magnet that will hold the piece. I use a special insert (a broken bit) and my Brownells magnetic screw driver handle.

With the magnet holding the piece over the can of water, apply heat from a propane torch "slowly" and evenly to the part until it loses it's magnetic grip on the piece (upper critical limit for you metallurgist out there) and falls into the can of water.

Buff the hardened part back to bright metal and with the magnet and torch, warm it very "slowly" and evenly again, this time watching the colors play across the surface. When it reaches purple, immediately plunge it back into the can of water. The time it takes to notice the color and then react, it should be blue by the time it hits the water. This should be sufficient for what you need.

As you heat the piece, do it slowly to give the molecules time to change evenly. Let the part you are heating "soak" in the heat as you bring it up in temperature. By allowing it to soak in the heat as it warms up, the change will be more uniform which will provide a more durable part.

Good luck,

Malm

jbelk, as i remember lead melts at 800 degrees F, which in my experience as a toolmaker puts the rockwell at 50c if he chose O1 tool steel...

Sean if you have a heat treat oven, I would suggest 1500-1550 for 10 minutes then quench in oil, then reset the oven for 1000 degrees and leave for at least 1/2 hour....if no oven I have heated tools with a torch to cherry red (not orange) and quenched...as for tempering at you could try the lead pot and get it as hot as it goes hopefully over 800....tempering is a function of heat for specified time for stress free tools.....of course not knowing the shape of the ejector it is possible it could live at 50 c rockwell......good luck....bob

222blr----

The melting point of lead is about 625 and tin lowers that.

My suggestion was to float the part in the lead pot. Since lead won't *cast* at the melting point I assumed the temperature would be closer to 700 which, in torch hardened O-1 gives a consistant 45-48Rc in my shop.

Maybe it's the altitude that makes it different.

Thanks for the advice. I'll try to find some 4140 or O-1 tool metal then use a torch and quench it. I'll post my results on Monday (no computer at home).

jbelk, are you saying that either you have your head in the clouds or I have my head in the sand???????

Hey I love hearing all the tricks that people think of for doing things without the usual equipment....An old friend told me a while back that the proper spring temper for small flat springs used in firearms was acheived by putting the hardened part in a small dish covered with oil and setting afire.... when the oil was completely burned away, you had the proper heat treatment. Did ya ever hear that one? I am glad that the professional guys post here, being a tool maker and having done some various gunsmithing, I will never know how a gunsmith can make money without the customer having a heart attack at his feet......keep it coming....bob

222blr---

Funny post!!

Actually the burn the oil to temper a spring trick is in James V. Howe gunsmithing book. It works well, too.

If I have several parts to heat-treat the same I use a pot of common table salt heated on the big propane wheel weight melter to whatever is needed. (Usually 700 to 800 for what I do), and soaked for 5 min or so depending on cross section. The molten salt is washed off after cooling.

I don't have an oven but have gotten pretty good at torch hardening.

Another trick for drawing steel to about Rc40 is to put in the electric kitchen oven and run a cleaning cycle. Most are about 750 F for 20 minutes.

Well I got the ejector made and it works fine, but still needs a little fine tuning to get the magazine to lock in place without too much force. I haven't hardened it yet. Thanks for all good info.

Where can you find 4140 or O-1?

these guys wont be the cheapest, but they always have it, and will ship

www.texasknife.com

btw, 01 is SOFT SOFT SOFT to work prior to heat treat... did I mention soft? Easy to work with, and oil quenches..

jeffe

JTD---

MSC- (800)645-7270 has all sizes of O-1, W-1&2, and A-2 along with a bunch of other alloys, plastics and four thousand pages of other stuff I can't seem to do without.

O= oil quench, W= water , A= air.