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| Boy! Your question is like asking blondes, brunettes or redheads! You will surely get several answers. Good luck! My favorite is Pro-Custom Oil. It gives a great finish that is tough and easy to apply. After sanding to 400 grit, raising the grain and sanding one more time with 400 grit I apply the first coat with 50-50 Pro-Custom oil and mineral spirits. This will suck in pretty fast. After a day or so I will do another coat or two until you start seeing a little on the wood surface. I then begin thin coats of straight from the can applied with the finger and thouroughly rubbed in. Sanding between each coat with a little 50-50 diluted finsh and wiped off with a lint free T-Shirt. Repeat until you like what you see. Final coats are one drop for the entire stock rubbed until it is warm from friction. I have done as few as 6 and as many as 30 coats (not recommended!). Have fun, but don't rush it. Drying time sdepends on humidity and temp. I know it says reapply after 4 hours, I always wait overnight at least.
Jim
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| Posts: 1210 | Location: Memphis, TN | Registered: 25 January 2008 |
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| Yep, it could, but it depends on the finish and porosity of the wood. 6 coats of unthinned will probably satisfy your needs. Some folks buy the spray and rush it. I don't recommend it, but Pro-Custom Oil does come in spray form also.
Jim
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| Posts: 1210 | Location: Memphis, TN | Registered: 25 January 2008 |
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| Gun-sav-r, Hunter Satin, follow directions closely.
John Farner
If you haven't, please join the NRA!
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| Posts: 2949 | Location: Corrales, NM, USA | Registered: 07 February 2001 |
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| Seeing how you stained it you should be real carefull if you choose to wet sand thinned finish. You'll cut through the stain.
______________________ Always remember you're unique, just like everyone else.
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| Posts: 6205 | Location: Cascade, MT | Registered: 12 February 2002 |
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| quote: wet sand thinned finish. You'll cut through the stain
Darn right been there done that.
As usual just my $.02 Paul K
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| a good oil finish will take some time. you can shorten it up a little if you use tung oil because it dries faster, or if you're in a hurry try deft danish oil. its a combination of tung oil and polyurethane. it dries quickly and you can get a pretty nice finish in a couple days |
| Posts: 13466 | Location: faribault mn | Registered: 16 November 2004 |
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| If you put the time in you can get a "Guild nice" finish using Gun-sav-r. You can also use it to fill the pores, but it can take a couple weeks to do that. You spray it on thick, let it dry for a few days, sand it flat and do it again until the pores are filled. Let your final coat dry for at least a week and then polish using parfin oil and either rotten stone or 4F pumice, depending on the sheen you're after. Gun-sav-r is a modified oil finish, is very durable, and easily touched up. Did I mention you must follow the directions closely? Read the pamphlet that comes with the can all the way through then follow them closely and you'll have a great finish.
John Farner
If you haven't, please join the NRA!
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| Posts: 2949 | Location: Corrales, NM, USA | Registered: 07 February 2001 |
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| Staining is not a right or wrong thing. I have stained many and left some au natural. The difference is the need to sand very, very carefully between coats. Properly refinishing a stock is an investment in time and a little technique. Personally, I enjoy refinish work. The one lesson I have learned over the years is don't rush it! You should have time before hunting season to do a first class job. If I can assist please feel free to PM me.
Jim
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| Posts: 1210 | Location: Memphis, TN | Registered: 25 January 2008 |
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| Hunter satin comes in spray cans, too. Midway or Brownell's. As far as sanding between coats to fill the pores, I started wet sanding with water. Can't remember which book had that trick, maybe SDH's. Using finish or diluted finish washes out some of the previously applied fill. In essence, you go back a half foot for every foot you try to go forward. It looks like crap when it's dried but works exactly the same when you over-coat the sanded finish. Only it takes fewer coats to get to the particular end you want to achieve.
"Experience" is the only class you take where the exam comes before the lesson.
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| Posts: 11143 | Location: Texas, USA | Registered: 22 September 2003 |
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| If you want a "guild" type finish, why not use what a "guild" member uses. Do a search on here for Daly's (sp) products, which is what Mr. Wiebe uses. If I recall correctly, he has posted his finishing methods using Daly's (sp) products here on AR many times. |
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| As another fast option, Birchwood Casey Tru Oil makes for a fair express finish. You can put about 4 or 5 coats on and be done in a couple of days. Not the best finish, but it works.
"Peace is that brief glorious moment in history when everybody stands around reloading".
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| Posts: 843 | Location: Randleman, NC | Registered: 07 April 2005 |
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| On my website, I recently posted my own way of stock finishing. You'll probably develop your own method. My instructions are mostly geared to the use of Sea Fin and Alkenet root. Good luck! |
| Posts: 2221 | Location: Tacoma, WA | Registered: 31 October 2003 |
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| quote: Originally posted by clowdis: As another fast option, Birchwood Casey Tru Oil makes for a fair express finish. You can put about 4 or 5 coats on and be done in a couple of days. Not the best finish, but it works.
Agreed. I have probably used at least a half dozen or more finishes and methods over the years. Tru Oil will give a nice finish in a short time without a lot of effort. |
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| Show us a picture or two when you're done. |
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