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In another thread I saw a comment on checking Garand "timing" using a device known as a "timing block". I have a DCM Garand which I believe is seriously (maybe even dangerously) "out-of-time". Would any of you please explain where I can get a Timing Block, how it is used, what it tells a person, what to look for, what to be on the lookout against, etc.? Many thanks in advance. My country gal's just a moonshiner's daughter, but I love her still. | ||
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Brownells sells the bolt timing blocks for about $30 bucks. They are used to detect feeding/chambering problems due to worn or damaged parts in the en-bloc clip feeding mechanisms of the Garands. They basically let you know if the cartridge is being pushed up in front of the bolt at the proper time to be stripped and fed into the chamber. They come with complete instructions. | |||
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Thanks, Rick. Though I carried a Garand every day for several years, I never got the opportunity to do more than use it at the time. I have a new GI op rod in the gun, but suspect I need other new parts as well. Do the timing block instructions help you determine if the op rod catch, follower, etc., are in useable shape too? My country gal's just a moonshiner's daughter, but I love her still. | |||
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Don’t know about the last part of your question...but there is also a “timing†block that is used to find out if the auto-bolt release is working properly. You remember “M1-Thumb†I’m sure? Well that device helps you identify if the bolt is being released at the improper time...like when your thumb is still in there before you release the pressure off the clip! | |||
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The block is easy to use...timing is the relationship between the op rod catch, op rod and bullet guide...a change in any of the the three components can change the timing. No directions are included to "diagnose" a problem. I have both the metal and 'plastic" block that Brownells sell, they both are accurate. Insert block like an en bloc clip, if action won't close at the prescribed mark on the block you know she's out. Many problems can be solved by simply switching out bullets guides, but I do have a method using your existing parts taught to me years ago from a USMC armorer that's most effective, especailly with collector parts. | |||
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It’s not uncommon to remove the accelerator to stop problems with the auto-bolt release function on Garands. Everything still works fine, but you have to manually release the bolt after inserting a new clip by pulling the op rod handle slightly to the rear to disengage and letting it close. | |||
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The major problem "symptom" of mine is that you have to push the follower clear to the bottom of the magazine well before the bolt will release. That almost guarantees an M-1 thumb each time you do it. (Before everyone writes in and tells me how to hold my hand in pressing the follower down, etc., fellas, I know how to release an M-1 bolt. I carried and used one every day for years, sometimes in some pretty "hyper" circumstances! I have never encountered one before where you had to push the follower clear to the very bottom of the mag well before the bolt would release.) Until I replaced the op rod, the bolt would not release at all on this rifle when it was empty, without first removing the barreled action completely out of the stock, then disassembling all the reciprocating parts. Now I am trying to find out what else needs to be done, and was (am) hoping a "Timing Block" might give me some clues. My country gal's just a moonshiner's daughter, but I love her still. | |||
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Alberta, The timing block will basically tell you nothing more than your thumb has already has...that the auto bolt release feature is not working properly. That could be caused by any or all of the following parts being worn, dirty and/or misaligned (and maybe some parts I don’t remember): 1) any of the parts in slide/follower assembly, 2) the accelerator, 3) op rod catch, 4) clip latch....... Allot of M1’s used for match shooting and/or sporting use had the accelerator removed so the bolt had to be manually released after inserting a clip. The accelerator is an “L†shaped piece that acts as a mechanical link between the follower and the op rod catch. When removed there is nothing that automatically releases the bolt. You end up with a system similar in operation to an M14/M1A where you must manually pull the op rod slightly back to disengage the catch that holds it back. | |||
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Thanks, Rick - Guess I'll just try replacing all those parts one at a time until the sucker functions right. Think maybe I'll start with the op rod catch & the accelerator. I replaced the op rod because the notches where the old op rod was caught by the op rod catch had clearly been filed considerably deeper by someone in the past. Wouldn't surprise me if they also filed the catch.... If that doesn't work, then I guess Ill try replacing the follower (cartridge fuide) and go from there My country gal's just a moonshiner's daughter, but I love her still. | |||
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Since they are cheap you might want to pick up a timing block so you can check your work as you go along. Anyone that hasn’t experienced having that bolt slam home on their thumb isn’t going to fully appreciate your problem... Ouch! Unfortunately you usually get it out just far enough so that it gets you right on the nail where it’s the most tender. | |||
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Boy, ain't that the truth! Good suggestion. Think I'll do that too. Thanks again. My country gal's just a moonshiner's daughter, but I love her still. | |||
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Alberta Canuck, I read this article a few weeks back on building up a 7.62 Garand which showed alot of specialized Garand tools. Might take a read... it was quite informative. Garand 7.62 Build Regards, Jeff P | |||
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My country gal's just a moonshiner's daughter, but I love her still. | |||
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The Accurate Reloading Forums THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS Guns, Politics, Gunsmithing & Reloading Gunsmithing Source & Use of Garand "Timing Block"
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