I've been working with a Ruger 1B in the venerable .270 Win. caliber and have found that with minimal contact to free floated the rifle will shoot with aceptable accuracy. The problem is that when the attachment screw is tightened to a firm but not torqued amount the accuracy goes to Hades. Now I notice that in the forearm where the srew comes through the wood, a spot of compression indicates where the hanger is making it's contact. If I was to shim this area with some resilient material, i.e., rubber or vibration absorbing material... would that be a good way to start? Help please.
Hardware stores carry a selection of nylon washers, usually clear in color. You can find one with the right diameter center hole. You may have to trim the OD of the washer to fit the inletting. There was a magazine article about #1 forearm bedding years ago (Rifle magazine maybe?). I have it somewhere, but I wouldn't know where. That was one of the solutions they used.
I'm not convinced this will get you where you want to go, but the cost and effort is minimal. If it works, you can work on a more permanent solution. Or leave the washer in place and spend your time doing something else.
Posts: 545 | Location: Liberty, MO | Registered: 21 January 2003
can use washer like M Pursell said also check out Brownell's site as they make something call Hicks just for the #1. I haven't used them found a gunsmith who can bed one pretty good. I'd say the washer is easier and cheaper may have to add two. Problem with the washer if barrel heats up can melt somewhat. Good luck.
Posts: 1098 | Location: usa | Registered: 16 March 2001
Gentlemen, thank you for this sage advice. I decided to try fitting a shim made from the top of a CCI Stinger box. Made it to fit the portion of the forearm which had the pressure spot from the hanger. I figure if I increase the contact I effectively move the barrel away from the forearm. : The accuracy wedge from the AR's is what gave me this Idea, and with the right material I think it could work nicely. One immediate problem I can see is the square of the reciever face and the back of the forearm could be slightly out of align ... bedding material to the rescue??? I appreciate your input and hope that others will contribute their experience.
I have a #1 B in 22 hornet. At first I floated the barrel and it shot into 3/4in. at 100yds. Then the forend warped over to the left and I took more wood out. Now the barrel was hitting at the bottom of the channel.Took out more wood, still hitting at the bottom. Again did the same with same results. Now barrel was well below mid-line in forstock. Made paper shims and put between hanger lug and stock/ with draw bolt going through shims. When I found the proper thickness I made shims from side of coke can(approx. .005 thick, each). It took 5 shims to get the barrel up. But it shoots fine and has stayed.
By the way, where you place the forend on the rest may change point of impact and or group size. My Hornet shoots best when resting on the rear of the forend. Pedro
Quote: I've been working with a Ruger 1B in the venerable .270 Win. caliber and have found that with minimal contact to free floated the rifle will shoot with aceptable accuracy. The problem is that when the attachment screw is tightened to a firm but not torqued amount the accuracy goes to Hades. Now I notice that in the forearm where the srew comes through the wood, a spot of compression indicates where the hanger is making it's contact. If I was to shim this area with some resilient material, i.e., rubber or vibration absorbing material... would that be a good way to start? Help please.
Yes, it would. Or should. I guess a lot will depend on how hard the contact is. There are a lot of approaches to solving your problem, but one of the simplest I have heard of is to place a plain old rubber faucet washer on the forend screw between the forend and the hanger, then just tighten the screw up enough to prevent the forend from wobbling around.
Quote: By the way, where you place the forend on the rest may change point of impact and or group size. My Hornet shoots best when resting on the rear of the forend. Pedro
Right! When shooting my No. 1's from the bench, I grip the forend with my left hand just as I do when hunting and rest the back of my hand on the front bag, and try to hold the rifle as much as possible the same way I do in the field. It seems to work OK, because I have never missed a game animal because of shifting zero.
The accuracy wedge from the AR's is what gave me this Idea, and with the right material I think it could work nicely. One immediate problem I can see is the square of the reciever face and the back of the forearm could be slightly out of align 
... bedding material to the rescue??? I appreciate your input and hope that others will contribute their experience. 
