I have an original 1885 Winchester (Highwall) that I had recolored by Ballard Rifles. I would like to lacquer it to preserve the colors.

Is there a best product out there for this (brand name, spray or brush,,,)?

And if any lacquer will do, what the heck is lacquer really, and is it all considered equal? I'm worried that today's lacquer, like today's "varnish" is really some form of plastic polyurethane in a spray can.

Thanks,
Brent

Brent

Don't bother with the lacquer. I use stock finish (Seafin or Varathane) it doesn't matter which.

Take a drop or two and spread it on the action. Let it tack up and wipe it off. Two or three coats will do and it won't detract from the case colors. In fact, it enhances the colors.

Good luck

Brent,



This question has been discussed a few times on the gunshop.com BBS, which is for double guns. One of the members is Oscar Gaddy, one of the country's formost authorities on color case hardening and rust bluing, he's written several articles for The Double Gun Journal.



When asked what he uses, Oscar answered the following....



"For a few years, I have been using the Behlens Jet Spray aerosol clear coat lacquer. It is a true cellulose based lacquer and can be easily applied without running or developing bubbles and it dries very quickly to a smooth high gloss finish. It is the best product of this type that I have ever used. I use it to coat many of the gun frames etc. that I color caseharden as well as Damascus barrels that I refinish. I have found it to be very durable and I highly recommend it for case color protection.

Tru-oil also can be used and, in fact, I used it for a few years myself for case color protection.

The disadvantage of this coating is that it has a yellow hue and it masks the true colors of the color casehardened surface to a certain extent.

Both products are easily removed by soaking in acetone. This is an important feature for this application as eventually you will need to remove the old protective coating and apply a new one as it will tend to wear off in places receiving a lot of handling.

I strongly recommend removing the wood from the stock and forend as well as stripping internal parts as much as possible before applying the finish. "



If you want more info just ask I kept most of the thread.



Regards,

Rob Di Stasio-Recoil Rob

A few years ago I attended a color case hardening class. The late John Hackley was the instuctor.

He had us use True Oil. We thinned it down with mineral spirits and sprayed it on with an air brush.

I plan to try out some of Krylon's non yellowing clear laquer in matte. I think it would work pretty well.

Rob, thanks for the post. I had seen it somewhere, probably on Doubleguns, but could not remember. Any idea of where to get the stuff?

Brent

Behlens is available from many mail order woodworking suppliers. Grizzly Machinery also carries it. Try Woodcrafters or Woodworkers Supply. I have used it on several occcasions for various projects and really like it.

Oscar says he gets it from Klingspor Abrasives when he orders paper but it's available elswhere.

Rob