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| Only if you want to create work, and get a different look, would you do that. Look at the pre war Model 70s; they had the tang inletted; then they put the longer wide piece on to sit on top of the wood; makes for easier stock making, but there is a functional benefit; the solid part of the tang underneath is not touching the wood so can never chip out (on the Winchester). Rems are made from bar stock so there is no bottom piece.
Winchesters were originally milled from big blocks of steel; post 64 are forged. (Not important here)
On Mausers etc, you have to be careful or the tang will chip out. Cured largely by glass bedding, or a slight relief behind it. So if you make an insetted tang, you have to prevent potential chipping.So, it is up to you; it offers no advantage and some disadvantages. Might look cooler. |
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| Thanks - to be honest I had n't really thought about and am slowly inletting a the action. Still another 5mm to go and going carefull on the tang. Then I had a look again at the oringinal stock - hence the question. |
| | | Posts: 987 | Location: Scotland | Registered: 28 February 2011 | 
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| How far to go? We don't do mm here!
(It's a joke) |
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| Yup I still work in feet, inches and then mm. The later are easier to read. To be honest over here we are now pretty much all metric and finding imperial nuts and bolts etc are hard to find. |
| | | Posts: 987 | Location: Scotland | Registered: 28 February 2011 |
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| As you know, we have liquids marked both ways, and nuts and bolts readily available both ways too. What people do not do is measure distance in the Metric system. Whether it is .001 inch or it is one Kilometer to the store. Or weights; pounds and ounces is it. If you go to the butcher and ask for a Kilogram of hamburger you will get a blank stare.
Maybe for races like a 10K race. Everyone knows that is really a 6.2 mile race. |
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| Thanks. That looks a really nice rifle and that tang treatment is just what I am thinking of.
What trigger guard are you using?? |
| | | Posts: 987 | Location: Scotland | Registered: 28 February 2011 |
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| That's the finest looking Remington I've ever seen! Beautiful work on the bottom metal and rings as well! |
| | | Posts: 597 | Location: Weathersfield, VT | Registered: 22 January 2017 |
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| quote: Originally posted by MNR:
That's the finest looking Remington I've ever seen! Beautiful work on the bottom metal and rings as well!
Now for the debate on bedding. It's a 223 with a heavy barrel so not a lot of recoil. I am thinking full length bed with a bit upward pressure at the forend tip. The alternative, is to roughly bed it, then glass bed action, recoil lug and first inch or so of barrel and then the rest free float. My thinking is that a solid bedding all the way through provides consistency. So does a free float but you do need a decent gap which is just unsightly. And to be really stable you need to rout out a grove in the forend and inlay a peice Alumium or steel rod. |
| | | Posts: 987 | Location: Scotland | Registered: 28 February 2011 |
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| On my 40X 222 I bedded the tang and action and and couple of inches of the barrel, free floated the rest. As far as the gap goes, .020"-.030" is plenty and I don't think unsightly. And the rod, never saw the need for one in the forend unless the stock is a spaghetti plastic special. The rifle is very accurate. |
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| quote: Originally posted by craigster:
On my 40X 222 I bedded the tang and action and and couple of inches of the barrel, free floated the rest. As far as the gap goes, .020"-.030" is plenty and I don't think unsightly. And the rod, never saw the need for one in the forend unless the stock is a spaghetti plastic special. The rifle is very accurate.
Thanks And Am I correct in that the magazine box should be just slightly loose - ie not making any upwards pressure on the action? |
| | | Posts: 987 | Location: Scotland | Registered: 28 February 2011 |
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| Bed the lug area and the first two inches of barrel; leave the rest free.
Mag loose? No. Just don't have anything binding on anything else. |
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| quote: Originally posted by MNR:
That's the finest looking Remington I've ever seen! Beautiful work on the bottom metal and rings as well!
Impeccable, indeed. |
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| Yes it is.
Back to bedding; glassing it full length won't accomplish anything if you are worried about the stock moving. Neither will bedding a bar of steel.
Just seal it well, free float it, but don't hog it out around the sides; it won't look bad. |
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| Not having any luck direct linking the photos from Flickr, so try the link to my account. The Rem tang can be slimmed down but not so far as to remove the safety recess, that gets welded up. I also flattened the angle of it to improve the top line of the grip. Another photo shows where I made an oversize lug and dressed it down flush. <IMG class="inline_image" SRC=" [img]https://live.staticflickr.com/65535/49903303718_86125b7281_k.jpg"> IMG_1448 by Metal, on Flickr[/IMG] |
| | | Posts: 644 | Location: Australia | Registered: 01 February 2013 |
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| Metal, where's the recoil lug? Is it blended with the OD of the action?
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| Thats right, I made an oversized one and dressed it down. |
| | | Posts: 644 | Location: Australia | Registered: 01 February 2013 |
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| That's very neat on the recoil lug.
Thanks for all you help and suggestions - food for thought.
On the metal work side, the remington 700 is an SPS and has a pretty nasty matt blued type finish. I will do a good rust blue on it. Other than emery paper and elbow grease can you remove bluing chemically. Does normal rust remover work on such bluing? |
| | | Posts: 987 | Location: Scotland | Registered: 28 February 2011 |
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| quote: Originally posted by Heym SR20:
That's very neat on the recoil lug.
Thanks for all you help and suggestions - food for thought.
On the metal work side, the remington 700 is an SPS and has a pretty nasty matt blued type finish. I will do a good rust blue on it. Other than emery paper and elbow grease can you remove bluing chemically. Does normal rust remover work on such bluing?
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| | | Posts: 987 | Location: Scotland | Registered: 28 February 2011 |
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| | | Posts: 987 | Location: Scotland | Registered: 28 February 2011 |
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