I was looking over a photo from a Alvin Linden rifle. I look at the grip of the stock and I see the corresponding lines above the grip run perfectly parrelel with the plain of the grip. And if you follow the lines behind the grip they still continue to appear as straight and true. A pattern like this looks like it would be impossible to do and keep those lines remaining straight. How was this done?

The question I pose is much better illustrated in this photo. This rifle was built in the early 30's you sure can tell it's been used. That checkering on the grip where it's been handled the most sure is showing its age.

Mike, did that pattern go over the top of the grip? If that was the case and he ended up with it parallel with the grip plane he did a great job keeping it parallel. That is not any criteria for a great pattern in my mind. If you tilt the diamond more so they are centered on the bore, I think you get a better look to the checkering. Doesn't always work out that way and often when you encounter compound curves it cant be straight.

One thing you will notice. See the wavy lines going up the rows of diamonds/ That is an indication of something being "off". In a perfect world, the lines travelling up the rows of checkering should be straight.

That is a very well done hunting rifle by one of the early "masters". I think the maker put some nice touches on the bolt handle, knob, peep and the engraving. I really like the engine turning on the peep sight. The trigger looks issue, has it been reworked to single stage?

No simple fill in patterns here. I bet this took him some time. Remember he likely made his own cutters, this was before the Dem-bart and electric tool era.

The checkering is much less uniform than that seen with todays electric tools or multigroove cutters on hand tools. The tops of the diamonds do waver over what is probably a swelling for the palm. For me, it is a frustrating exercise to keep those straight over the compound curves as Mr Worthing points out. The only way they stay straight is if the size of the diamonds enlarges over swelled areas, and gets smaller in the "valleys". The more uniform the curves, the easier this is to do.

To my eye, the more horizontal master lines appear to be not parallel. If you follow the lowest line (just above and parallel with the grip cap) forward, and you follow the topmost line forward, they will appear to converge some distance below and in front of the grip.

I would love to see a photo of the top of the grip. I suspect he started with the master lines across the top, then gradually angled them as they were worked down. If he started with the grip cap line on each side and worked up, how could he have ever achieved the correct diamond angles on an overlap at the top?? Maybe there is not an overlapping pattern on the top?

Although this is not in the same league (as far as checkering uniformity) as todays "best rifles", I think it is a damn fine hunting rifle (a true classic) and I think anyone should feel very priviledged to have it.

Roger R (I used to be N4652E, but that was lost in hte change)

quote:

Originally posted by RogerR:
I would love to see a photo of the top of the grip.

I can provide that.



Linden termed this type of pattern his "Cord" pattern because the meeting of the two panels under the grip (with a dividing line) resembled the grill of the Cords of the era.

As shown, the checkering isn't over the top, but separate panels. Linden laid out this pattern with "checkering paper". He did this so the areas where he would have to "pinch" or "expand" the spacing would be evident before he started to checker. As noted by Chic and Roger, the diamond points appear to waver at the point where the horizontal lines are starting to go under the grip. He was slightly adjusting the spacing at this point......making sure the bottom lines would be parallel to the grip cap. You can hardly detect it even under close examination. If the spacing was left to just that of the tool, the lines would start to run uphill.

This rifle also has a checkered butt. It is checkered 4 ways......vertical, horizontal, and both angles. The points are like two-stage pyramids. The shape of the butt is like the surface of a Niedner butt plate, so multiple curves are present. The same type of checkering spacing was required on it. The vertical lines run perfectly down that plane of the butt......and the horizontal lines run perfect on that plane. It requires some subtle adjusting of the spacing to make that happen.

This rifle is actually a target rifle, not a hunting rifle. Probably why it survived in such nice shape. It wasn't carried afield.

I'm the 3rd owner, and I've had it for 30 years.

Mike must have been rummaging around in my Hunt101 pictures.

GV

That is not that difficult to do but it does take a bit of practice! The best way to have the lines come out even and lined up is to reverse the stock after every few lines. I do this always when checkering because the cutter will wonder a bit and like tolerences it adds up. Reversing the direction of your cuts helps to prevent this. If you look really close in the top view the lines would not meet up quite right if done as a wrap around pattern. This is why you usually see borders breaking up portions of the pattern even on a wrap around pattern. This is also why I cut all my checkering by hand!!! Your first cut just scratches the wood and if things do not line up just right you can correct this with out much problem. With electric tools your first cut will usually be to deep to make the needed changes. Do not get me wrong that is a good job and it was also cut by hand, there are times when the old ways are best.

alvinmack:
I would be interested to learn if the checkered bolt knob is an insert or if the checkering is cut into the knob.
MP

In his own words…………

>>>LETTER<<<<<

Thanks for the pic G V, and Mr Petrov, that letter is piece of history, thanks.

This pattern is much easier to understand as a two panel, non wrap around pattern that just happens to meet symetrically in the center of the grip. This is damn fine work. It appeals to my eye, and I think it is much more appropriate for a fine gun than some of the bizarre interrupted geometric stuff that seems to be done just to showcase the makers skill.

I saved these pics to review when I lay out my next project.

Roger R

Roger...

Email me and I'll send you pics of the forearm checkering also. My email address is in my profile.

GV

From the letter sounds like for the finish He soaked the stock with linseed oil,then used spar varnish to fill the pores and then linseed oil again for a top finish.

GV, great rifle. Can't help but think of him and the pains he took to get that checkering just the way he wanted it. Gary Goudy is like that when he checkers. The letter is a treasure.

I have seen grip checkering like that a few times before with a line dividing. Once and only once, I saw an English (straight) stocked shotgun that was checkered over the top and underneath with NO line dividing the pattern. It was all one cylindrical checkering pattern. I was blown away. There is one other that Maurice Ottmar did called the broken diamond. It is on a rifle that he stocked for Jim Carmichael and it is in his book. It has a diamond with a "broken" ribbon outline in the middle of the wrap around forend. The amazing part is the checkering on the inside of the diamond is finer than that on the outside. So all of the ribbons dimensions, in length and width had to be multiples of both lpi's, inside and out. That had to be a total nightmare. You have to admire those folks who thought of ways to make things tougher for themselves but more pleasing to all of us that come after.

Another one!

>>>>Linden<<<<<

quote:

Originally posted by Customstox:
Once and only once, I saw an English (straight) stocked shotgun that was checkered over the top and underneath with NO line dividing the pattern.

You can say twice now!

Kirkwood Circa 1900

quote:

Linden laid out this pattern with "checkering paper". He did this so the areas where he would have to "pinch" or "expand" the spacing would be evident before he started to checker

GV,

How exactly is checkering paper laid out on the stock especially in the areas of the grip. Checkering paper on a forearm seems natural. However on the grip it doesnt seem so natural. How do you think Linden would have laid out checkering paper on the grip on your rifle? Do you have any illustrations? Sorry to be a pain with questions.

-Mike

Give me a day, Mike. I'll take some pictures of checkering paper and a sample of the type of grip checkering that Linden did.

GV

Customstox,

Do you think this is art or very nice custom work?

Roland

Mr. Petrov,

Could I trouble you to see the checkering pattern that Linden did on the foreend of that stock?

-Mike

quote:

Originally posted by alvinmack:
Mr. Petrov,
Could I trouble you to see the checkering pattern that Linden did on the foreend of that stock?-Mike

Mr. Petrov won’t but Michael will.

Linden Forend 1

Linden Forend 2

Another Linden 1


Another Linden 2

Michael

From the view of the forearm it appears like it might be a Newton action. Is it indeed? If so, is it the original Newton barrel and what caliber is it?

quote:

Originally posted by Idared:
MichaelFrom the view of the forearm it appears like it might be a Newton action. Is it indeed? If so, is it the original Newton barrel and what caliber is it?

The rifle and barrel are Newton, the caliber is .30-06 and the barrel has segmental rifling. Who ever had it built was into sights. It has a mirror King front, a fold down barrel rear, a receiver sight and Niedner side-mount with a Hensoldt scope.