WTF? What is Ruger using on their recent stock finishes? I've stripped it chemically...or at least tried to, but it is VERY slow going. This stuff is like epoxy! Any secrets you all want to share on this? I certainly don't mind spending some time on it, but I want to be sure to get it set for a darker stain then finish with Tru-Oil.

THANKS.

Gary
DRSS
NRA Lifer
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quote:

Originally posted by GarBy:
WTF? What is Ruger using on their recent stock finishes? I've stripped it chemically...or at least tried to, but it is VERY slow going. This stuff is like epoxy! Any secrets you all want to share on this? I certainly don't mind spending some time on it, but I want to be sure to get it set for a darker stain then finish with Tru-Oil.

THANKS.

Gary
DRSS
NRA Lifer
SCI
DSC

Put on the gloves & try wiping it down with MEK??

What are YOU using for a stripper ?. Did you attempt to wipe it with a solvent prior to stripping and if so what solvent ?.

It's simply a Guess as almost every manufacture uses a proprietary finish supplied by another manufacture . Some are simple synthetic varnishes others are catalyzed lacquers others are single or plural component urethanes type 1 or 2 aromatic polycyonide hydrocarbon . Others may include tung oil finishes , polymer coatings , Polyesters , TFE copolymer , PVDF , Fluoropolymer urethanes , or even vinyl . Now throw in Al SI or Zirconium SI for abrasion resistance . Solvent or water based ??.

Commercial floor finishes are tough stuff and simple modifications make them ideal for small quick tough stock finishes .

Welcome to my world !.

A sure fire method of removal is a heat gun or abrading the surface then attempting to use a " Chemical Stripper " or the heat gun for lifting the finish . Just be careful and try a small area to see what works best .

Shoot Straight Know Your Target . ...

Thanks, gents. I'm using a liquid stripper...Zip-Strip...I think...sorry, not at home. It hardly touched it on the first coat. I'm definitely not an expert at this, so pardon my lack of knowledge...but what is MEK?
After application of stripper, I used a brush in the checkering and 000 steel wool on the finish...started very fine as I didn't want to do any re-shaping.
I appreciate your responses.

Gary
DRSS
NRA Lifer
SCI
DSC

Autobody supply has strong "aircraft striper". Works for ("magnum") finishes and polyurathane

MEK is some nasty shit you will find in the section next to the acetone and laquer thinner

Thanks....that might be the way to go.

Gary
DRSS
NRA LIFER
SCI
DSC

I wish I could remember the name of the solvent I used to strip some SERIOUSLY old paint from a car hood... This stuff required a sturdy chemical resistent pair of gloves but simply WORKED... Used some of what was left to get some epoxy off of a wood stool for a friend... Worked just as well and did not harm to the wood... I bought it at Home Depot and it came in a gold colored 1 gallon can...

By the way, MEK is methyl ethyl ketone...

Ken....

Thanks, Heat. I think I know what you're talking about in the gold can....but I was worried about it affecting the wood. Glad it didn't. NOW I know what MEK is....brain cramp...and that IS some serious $hit.

I now have my homework.....Thanks!

Gary
DRSS
NRA Lifer
SCI
DSC

quote:

Originally posted by GarBy:
Thanks, Heat. I think I know what you're talking about in the gold can....but I was worried about it affecting the wood. Glad it didn't. NOW I know what MEK is....brain cramp...and that IS some serious $hit.

I now have my homework.....Thanks!

Gary
DRSS
NRA Lifer
SCI
DSC

Just remembered the name, it's Jasco... It will take anything off... Test it on a hidden part of the stock like where the pad will cover it... You can test on a seperate piece of wood as well....

Ken....

Any of the Methylene Chloride based strippers will do it (Zip Strip, Jasco, etc). Methyl Ethyl Ketone is not as good a stripper as the chlorinated good stuff.

For the epoxy based finishs like Browning and Remmy use, it takes me about 4-5 strippings to get down to wood. Do not let the goo dry out, it will leave a coating that might be worse than the epoxy coating. I use the back of a butter knife to scrape off the goo.

Next time I do this crappy job, I'm going to try a new tip: cover the stock in the goo and then wrap it in aluminium foil for about 25 minutes. The theory is it keeps the goo from drying and holds the chlorinated solvent next to the wood longer.

The heavy duty solvents like MEK or MC will probably do it.

A word of caution HOWEVER, do not underestimate the toxicity of these or almost any other commercial solvent. Use outdoors with good ventilation. I usually wait for a windy day or even use a fan to blow the fumes away from where I am working. Also, SKIN PROTECTION - check for the appropriate kind, i.e. nitrile, that will not allow the chemicals to penetrate. Leukemias, liver disease, dissolving fingers, all sorts of nasty things await the unwary user / abuser of strong organic solvents.

Jasco Paint and Epoxy Stripper
Kleen Strip Premium KS-3

Kleen Strip was purchased today at my local HD....that and a stripper sponge. I probably wasn't being aggressive enough. I normally only do stocks that have seen better days due to lack of care, etc.....never a fairly new one.
I took before pics.....and I'll post those and after pics once I'm done....I'm going to a rather dark finish vs the lighter one that it came with....looks a bit more proper on an African rifle.

Thanks much to all.

Gary
DRSS
NRA Lifer
SCI
DSC

Sorry I wasn't able to get back sooner . MEK is OK but what works even better is Methylene Chloride based strippers . How ever some types of finishes refuse to come off with even that .

There is a product called Peel Away ( Boat Yards use it ) that is like , well dry wall mud or paste in consistency . How ever it wouldn't work on polyester finishes . Will lift Nasty bottom paints urethanes enamels stuff like that .Much easier and nicer to use than Methyl Chloride .
Some local furniture strip shops use good solvent ( Running ) based strippers with a nozzle brush , works pretty slick . Generally don't charge much for a stock !.

As far as Stripping oder goes , use in a Wind protected area such as a garage work bench . Lay several news papers down cover the stock with what ever stripper ; then just place an empty card board box over the top . Strippers work best in shade and lack of air movement . Patio side of a garage also works .

A sure fire solvent is T17 ( Hot thinner ) WEAR protection , this stuff is NASTY .

Lessonal , Randolf Chemicals and Air plane parts suppliers handle it . www.aircraftspruce.com/
happens to be one place that handles nice stuff for do it your self types .

I find this to be helpful when stripping ANYTHING . First wash with Dawn Dishwashing Detergent and or TSP . Then Scratch with a Coarse paper ( Not enough to damage the wood or substrate ) just to " Open the finish " ; then apply either solvent or stripper . Good to Go !.

Shoot Straight Know Your Target . ...