First, a shot of progress on the forearm:



Now to the question... I want to continue the point pattern in the pistol grip area, with the diamonds all aligned along the longitudinal axis. I have rough drawn in my guidelines as you can see here:



I would like to do an over the top pattern rather than breaking it into two panels. This would match the wrap-around style of the front. However, when I lay the label tape across from one side to the next the lines don't line up. Because of this I have sketched in a dividing border between the two sides as you can see in this picture:



I just can't warm to this though two panel pattern though. I think it will look odd having the diamonds on each side angling away from each other. What I'm wondering is could one "cheat" the lines over the top and make it look OK? In other words, curve them subtly and almost imperceptibly over the top of the wrist to keep the points pointing downrange without sacrificing the proportion of the diamonds? I have probably curved lines more than this by accident... and I guess the answer depends a lot on my skill, I'm just wondering what the pros thing. Maybe use a stiff wire to guide the layout?

The pattern you have laid out will work only for a two panel pattern. To do an over the top you must start on the top and work your way both directions. You do this by doing the pattern a little at a time.

I find it better to "fudge" my lines further down the grip instead of on top. Re-lay your master lines with the correct angle you desire on the top of the grip. I have templates for both 3 to 1 and 3 1/2 to 1 made up for this purpose. They are shorty patterns so I can use a straight edge to extend the lines out the sides of the pattern.

I like to diagram the pattern much like you did. I move both patterns down together but use a ruler and a set of dividers to make sure the points are in the same spot on both sides. A curved top line around the inletting is helpful and you may use a point at the back of the pattern to bring them together (ala Browning Safari grade).

Thanks Dennis. I think I will redraw this out for an over the top pattern. It just means the front of the points will have to angle up a bit more on the sides than I wanted. And I kind of liked how the bottom edge just up from the grip cap formed a harmonious border with the diamonds. Oh well, I guess you can't have it all...

I laid out some new diamonds this evening, now I just need to figure out where the edges will be.

Dennis explained this top checkering very well. Try drawing a pattern starting over the top and show how you arrive at the bottom. Use a grease pencil to mark on the stock as it can be removed and marked again as needed. I like to make the lines along the area as in the picture for the grip

I like to use the 3X1 diamond as it allows more room to fudge on the lines when you try to line up over the top layout diamond. Mark the line above the grip cap and under the grip area using a grease pencil for a stop line. Remember that the pointed pattern has to be left open at the ends and completed when you get the spacing line on location. Find a clear plastic ruler where you can see the line to help you bring the lines down on each side and the same spacing. This is where you will need to fudge a small amount on each line until you learn how to push a line which way it needs to move. I don't know how much checkering you have done, but you picked a hard one to learn on. Here is my template on 3X1.

Thanks again to both of you. This is only my third stock so I still have lots to learn, but both previous ones were also over-the-top wraparound styles so I am fairly comfortable doing this. The difference is that I haven't done it in a point pattern before. I previously carved a curved border and just checkered up to the edges so the angles weren't real critical.

I have a very similar template I made from semi-transparent plastic. I also scribed a centerline bisecting the angle which seems to work well.

Although you can't tell from the photos I used a different pencil on the last layout. The first one I used is a hard silver leaded pencil that required too much pressure and left very light lines. I felt like a grease pencil would be too soft and clumpy, so I went to an art supply store and found a soft white artists pencil. It worked very well, and I would recommend it.

Be careful what you wish for....artist pencils leave a residue that will show up on the wood when you finish the project IF it is outside the pattern you drew or in front of the points you finished up with. This is true for any writing stick you may choose. I have made a habit of making sure with acetone that the pattern won't show up through afterward.

Good to know, I will watch for that. Hopefully I did a good enough job filling pores and sealing the wood that pencil residue will have no place to go but to sit on the surface and wait to be wiped away. I also considered a very light wet sanding around the borders to help reduce the effect of some of the minor over-run nicks. This should help scrub off any stray layout marks.

I've been using extra-fine Sharpies instead of grease pencils. They seem to go on easier, are easier for me to see, stay longer, and come in more colors. When I'm done with them any that remain clean off with alcohol.