I'm just a Bubba Gunsmith, just bought my action wrench, and bolt bending blocks. Removing barrels wasn't to bad, drilling and tapping was a piece of cake, but damn, bending that bolt is a pain in the ass! How do you guys do it? Or is it easier to cut it off, and weld on another?

I always found it easier to cut the blinker off and use an aftermarket handle.

mc

I believe a large vise and a large hammer are in order! I've seen re-welded handles, but it does take some practise. Don't know which method my smith preferred, but he did both.

GSF1200,

Can you be a little more specific about what part of the bending process you're having trouble with? Is it just too stubborn to bend or are you having problems getting the shape how you want it?

If you're having trouble getting the angles how you want them, that is more of an artistic thing which is tough for me to verbally explain, maybe someone else can do a better job at it.

If you are having problems to get the bolt to physically bend for you, make sure you;
-use enough heat
-use a large enough hammer (I like a 2-3 pound range and hit it softer than you would a lighter hammer)
-use a large enough vise like Daryl suggests, I'd say at least a 6 inch, and I'd feel more comfortable with an 8 inch vise. It really helps.

Regarding using the heat, hopefully some of the more experienced guys can make some suggestions for you. I've had quite a bit of experience using torches so I use a rather large tip with a somewhat roaring flame, heat it quickly, bend it quickly, then cool it off with a wet rag just as fast. I wouldn't suggest this to others though as if you screw up anything it won't be a little mistake! Then again I've only bent a few bolts so I still am on adrenaline when I do it........

I'm having trouble getting it to bend, I'm using a MAPP&OXY torch, I think my hammer wasn't big enough. I will buy a 3pd hammer as you suggest. I have the bending blocks, and heatsink from Midway.

I don't like to bend the bolt handles as I have seen seveal that when bent did damage to the body of the bolt - the bending blocks are supposed to prevent this but - - -
Much better IMHO to cut the bolt handle off, trim things up and fit a new one then weld it in place. This is much faster and yields a better product for me. You alos have a wide choice of ready made bolt handles and stlyes available.
Hope this helps.
"Shoot straight, shoot safe and shoot a lot!"
Regards,

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'Trapper'

Bolt forging or welding is an area of custom Gunsmithing that seperates the pros from the amatures. Forging is definately easier than welding. I suggest that you learn by reading everything you can find on the process then practice,practice,practice, then practice some more on junker bolts before you even think about doing it on a good bolt. Bolt welding/forging is something that you have to do right the FIRST time. You really only get one chance to do it right.

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NRA Life member

[This message has been edited by Bear Claw (edited 11-30-2001).]

[This message has been edited by Bear Claw (edited 11-30-2001).]

I stopped bothering to forge bolts years ago. I don't like the heat involved and the possibility of annealing the bolt lugs(Read- this would be very bad and I've seen it done). What I do now is to use a dremel tool with a cut off wheel to make a cut in the bolt handle just past the caming section at about 30 degrees leaving just 1/4 inch of the bolt handle metal attached. I then use an Oxy/acetylene torch( rosebud tip-your Mapp/oxy should work) to heat the cut area only to a bright red. With the bolt in a Vise and coated with heat stop paste,you can then EASILY pull the bolt down and back with a good set of pliers to get exactly the shape you want. After cooling,gring the opened vee to produce clean surfaces and carefully weld up the bolt. I've successfully done this with a MIG/gas set-up but a TIG welder does a much better job. Since the bolt handle has never been cut off, you now have a much stronger set-up particularily if you don't have alot of experience welding. Grind down the weld and if you have any holes, re-weld and grind again. When it looks good to you, polish and test fit for scope clearance. This procedure is fun, easy and works every time. More importantly, you never wind up with a ruined bolt or just a handle in your hand! Good luck-Rob

Rob I like that approach! It allows a person to proceed slowly and cautiously, and if he feels uncomfortable doing the weld, or doesn't have that equipment he can at least still do the shaping then drop it off somewhere else to have it welded.

GSF, I think that if you torch is the one that uses propane bottle sized tanks it may not generate enough heat. I guess if I had to explain it I would say that it needs to heat the handle to a medium red in about 45 seconds to a little over a minute, or at least that is what I'm comfortable with. My experience with the little mapp torches is that they don't provide the quantity of BTU's needed to do a good job. However If you do it how Robgunbuilder describes it there should be enough heat to make that bend, then you can find someone to weld it for you.

I would insulate the bolt well and use heat-sink paste/foam. I think an oxy-acetylene torch will provide more than the required heat (avoid an oxidizing flame -- turn up the acetylene a bit -- a yellower and very slightly smoky flame will work best). Give the heat time to soak into the bolt handle; just because it's glowing red on the outside doesn't mean that it's that hot at the center. Whenever steel is heated to a high temperature there is danger of oxidation and scaling -- that's the gray flaky stuff left on the hot spot. Propane is notorious for oxidizing and tends to be used more for ornamental ironwork and horseshoeing where it doesn't matter so much. The old blacksmiths use to pour dry borax (among other things) on the hot surface; it melts and inhibits oxidation, washes off with water later. I personally would go into a low yellow heat before bending; if it turns white hot and acts like a 4th of July sparkler you're literally burning the steel up. Then you'll have to cut the handle off and weld a new one on -- which is probably the best thing to do in the first place!

G

I've used both the small kit you speak of, and a regular oxy-acet. tank setup. My experience with the MAPP/O2 kits is that you are limited by the small nozzle opening -- you just don't have the flow to heat it up quickly for bending, and you certainly don't have enough to do good strong welding. You're more or less limited to thin pieces with that kit -- you could weld on magazine box sides, for example.
My suggestion is to send it to someone who can TIG on a whole new bolt handle. This way, you avoid worrying about annealing the lugs or the cocking piece notch. IMO the replacement handles like the Brownells / Dakota are better looking than the original anyway.

FWIW & Good luck,
Todd

I cut them off with a hacksaw, add about a half inch in length, and weld it back on with a wire welder, using a heat sink and a wet cloth. I grind a small bevel on the stub left on the bolt, and bevel all parts to be welded for better penetration.

GSF - I forged one bolt handle....on my first custom rifle. Never again. I now buy and new handle (Talley) and have it welded on. I dont do this myself as I stick to stock work. Forged handles tend to be too short in my humble opinion.

I agree Bill, my forged handles are to short. I will try welding on a handle, I have several custom rifles built by someone else, I want to do a complete rifle by myself. The barreling, drill and tap, bolt handle, stock, trigger, safety, blueing, the whole thing.

I have forged many and find that a drift or punch shaped to fit the slot in the blocks helps. Using this you can also add some length when the handle as it is flattened somewhet in the rectangular block notch. Be sure to use heat paste in betewwen the blocks and the bolt especially around the savety lug and a heat sink.

In MHO bent bolts are too short and they are ugly....I cut them off and tig a Talley or Jerome Glem or something of that order on.

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Ray Atkinson

ray@atkinsonhunting.com
atkinsonhunting.com

I use the cut part way and weld up the notch approach or weld on a new handle. I have started making handles similar to the Talley but with a knob a bit more like the Oberndorf mausers. I agree with Ray on the shortcomings of forged handles. This means he must be right since I like to disagree with him when I can.