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Permanently installing screws - Loctite vs. epoxy
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What will work best for permanently installing screws? Silver solder is not an option, nor is TIG. If the vote is for Loctite, what color?

Thanks
Todd
 
Posts: 1248 | Location: North Carolina | Registered: 14 April 2001Reply With Quote
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If your that sure just go ahead and use the red loctite. Blue is always advised as it holds and is not permanant.
 
Posts: 17 | Registered: 07 March 2004Reply With Quote
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if you never ever want them out use Green Loctite stud and bareing mount
 
Posts: 169 | Location: Never where you think | Registered: 03 February 2004Reply With Quote
<allen day>
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When it comes to gun screws, I don't advise making anything permanent. Blue Loctite is fine!

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I would agree with the blue Loctite. I've never seen a gun that needed more. My shooting buddy always tightens things to the point of damage. When he mounts a scope it has flats on it where the rings pinched it way to much, and ususally the screws are buggered. He uses bearing Loctite on the bases and sometimes inside the rings and on the screws. The sad part is he never keeps these guns and I'm ususally the one asked to remove the bases, rings and scope. He's a pal so I do it. My guns are just degreased and the scopes mounted with a snug down of the screws. Of all the hunting I've done, never once has a screw come loose. Not to mention that scope removal is painless. I've even shown him the torques recommendations on Leupold's website, but he's admitted to being obsessed with something comming loose at the wrong time, so to each his own.
 
Posts: 619 | Registered: 14 November 2002Reply With Quote
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This is to repair off center holes in the front ring, so permanent is good.

Thanks for the replies,
Todd
 
Posts: 1248 | Location: North Carolina | Registered: 14 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Todd, FWIW I recall reading somewhere that iodine will literally rust a threaded connection shut, forever, permanently, and you'll never get it loose without C4, a cuttin' torch and a high speed diamond rotary burr. Sounds rather primitive as well as effective.
 
Posts: 8169 | Location: humboldt | Registered: 10 April 2002Reply With Quote
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Drop of blood would likely have the same effect.
Rust? no thanks!
 
Posts: 872 | Location: Lindsay Ontario Canada | Registered: 14 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Red locktite is harder but not necessarily permanent. I use it on scope bases. To remove screws with red locktite I apply a soldering iron to the head of the screw for about 1.5 minutes and they come right out.
 
Posts: 187 | Location: eastern USA | Registered: 06 September 2001Reply With Quote
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craigster is ScottS is Judy is the same POS troll

TROLL EXPOSED!!! TROLL EXPOSED!!! TROLL EXPOSED!!!

craigster = Scotts = a useless POS dumb troll!!!




Quote:

Todd, FWIW I recall reading somewhere that iodine will literally rust a threaded connection shut, forever, permanently, and you'll never get it loose without C4, a cuttin' torch and a high speed diamond rotary burr. Sounds rather primitive as well as effective.


 
Posts: 204 | Location: Michigan, USA | Registered: 13 January 2004Reply With Quote
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The black stuff is permanent. It is more of a super glue type product. Loctite Black Max 380. A local police armorer uses it to attach the front sight on the shotguns after the silver solder gives way. None of the glued ones have been knocked off yet.
 
Posts: 338 | Location: Johnsburg, Illinois | Registered: 15 December 2002Reply With Quote
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Todd,
I would repair the holes, and then redrill. That means tig'ing them and redrilling.

jeffe
 
Posts: 39919 | Location: Conroe, TX | Registered: 01 June 2002Reply With Quote
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Quote:

Red locktite is harder but not necessarily permanent. I use it on scope bases. To remove screws with red locktite I apply a soldering iron to the head of the screw for about 1.5 minutes and they come right out.


500 degrees of heat and its not permanent anymore
 
Posts: 1295 | Location: USA | Registered: 21 May 2001Reply With Quote
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