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I have a friend making a copy of the rear sights off of my pre-war Mauser (doubling the height of the blades). He is not a gunsmith, but has the ability to make a copy of ANYTHING (works for a $130B Asia based manufacturing company) What are some recommended steels I should tell him to use? "Evil is powerless if the good are unafraid" -- Ronald Reagan "Ignorance of The People gives strength to totalitarians." Want to make just about anything work better? Keep the government as far away from it as possible, then step back and behold the wonderment and goodness. | ||
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Lots of choices but I like to work with 4140. It can be hardened if you like . | |||
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thanks "Evil is powerless if the good are unafraid" -- Ronald Reagan "Ignorance of The People gives strength to totalitarians." Want to make just about anything work better? Keep the government as far away from it as possible, then step back and behold the wonderment and goodness. | |||
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That would be a good choice. Speedy Metals here on the internet has 4140 for very reasonable prices. Jason "You're not hard-core, unless you live hard-core." _______________________ Hunting in Africa is an adventure. The number of variables involved preclude the possibility of a perfect hunt. Some problems will arise. How you decide to handle them will determine how much you enjoy your hunt. Just tell yourself, "it's all part of the adventure." Remember, if Robert Ruark had gotten upset every time problems with Harry Selby's flat bed truck delayed the safari, Horn of the Hunter would have read like an indictment of Selby. But Ruark rolled with the punches, poured some gin, and enjoyed the adventure. -Jason Brown | |||
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I like 1018. It's easy to machine, polish and blue. And it's relatively inexpensive and easy to find. John Farner If you haven't, please join the NRA! | |||
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For sights, any steel will work; if you are going to temper it like a spring (like a leaf sight) need to use spring steel like 1075. If you are going to case harden it, use 1018. If you are going to through harden it, use 4140. If you are going to leave it as is, (most sights are), use anything but 1018 will be cheaper than alloy steel. If you are only going to make one, doesn't matter. I am sure the pre war Mauser sights were made from a low carbon steel like 1018. | |||
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Thanks. I asked him to use 4140. Hope to have them back mid-summer. Will post pics. "Evil is powerless if the good are unafraid" -- Ronald Reagan "Ignorance of The People gives strength to totalitarians." Want to make just about anything work better? Keep the government as far away from it as possible, then step back and behold the wonderment and goodness. | |||
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You'd be surprised to find out how many sights and scope bases are made from 12L14. I personally like 4140 but 12L14 will work in most applications. Now for the nay sayers. Look up the specs on annealed 4140 then compare them to 12L14 you'll find that 12L14 is actually stronger then 4140 in an annealed state. 4140 is a tough steel but is doesn't develop it's full strength until it's heat treated. www.KLStottlemyer.com Deport the Homeless and Give the Illegals citizenship. AT LEAST THE ILLEGALS WILL WORK | |||
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The Accurate Reloading Forums THE ACCURATE RELOADING.COM FORUMS Guns, Politics, Gunsmithing & Reloading Gunsmithing Recommended Steel for Rear Rifle Sights
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