Hi all, I took my son out grouse hunting today and the little H&R 20ga wouldn't go bang. With the action opened I could pull the trigger and push the hammer forward, but the fireing pin wouln't extend out. I couldn't see any movement at all. It the old topper 58 single shot. Was this made by H&R inc.? H&R1871 says they are not affiliated with H&R inc. I'm wondering if it would be finacially reasonable to send it off for repair if the factory would do it. Or could I just get a new fireing pin someplace? If not, baybe I could just make a new one. Would O-1 drill rod work okay or be too brittle?

LAR,
I may have one as I picked up about 40 parts guns last week and there was a couple of those in the mix. Let me look and if there is one there its yours. Gotta keep the kids guns going boom!
JAG

Lar45,
Well in fact there was one out there, even in a 20 ga. However, the firing pin is broke as well. I see from the design that it is prone to breakage. The actual strikiung part of the pin is squared off at the base giving it no strength. It should at least have a taper help in making it more rigid. Sorry I couldnt be more of a help.

I would suggest when you do buy one, order 2-3.

Regards,
JAG

JAG, would you be interested in parting with any of the barrels from your parts guns if they would fit my 20ga?

LAR45

Gun Parts Corp. lists a firing pin for that gun.

Part #158-219 this goes in front of all parts numbers below)
279190 series AA to AR2000001
279180 All series to Z
279230 series AR2000001 and on
$4.60 each no matter which part is correct
pgs 220-221 in catalog #22.

Just like loading data check my part number(s) if you order one, just so you don't end up with a Howitzer barrel or something else unusual and not usable!

Gunsmith could never waste the time to spin you one if he wanted to earn 50 cents an hour, but if you will get one from GPC, and send the pieces of the old one, I will attempt to make ya a couple.
Course if you replace this one, you may never break another.

Dry firing a breakage issue on this??

LouisB
Another issue with this after looking at your site is that you may well be able to make one that will work out of a piece of drill rod using that famous file and test fit (or measure) method to make up for the lack of a lathe.

[ 09-15-2003, 03:55: Message edited by: TCLouis ]

Lar45,
The only barrel I have is the one matched to the rec I pulled that broken pin out of. I need to order a few misc internals and a forarm and it will be complete. I was just going to give you that pin and pick up another later when I put it together. I will dig around and see what else is out there.

JAG

Thanks for the info, I do have a lathe and mill. It's a Smithy, but it still works. I'm thinking for $4.60 I'll just order one. I've been playing with guns for quite some time, but I'm just getting serious about the more in depth issues. I picked up several sticks of O-1 drill rod to play with. I'm wondering if it was heated and oil quenched, would it be too brittle to withstand the abuse? Or would you just temper it afterwards to add some ductility back into it? I haven't made anything with the drill rod yet. I did make some prybars awhile back from potato digger links that I got too hard and they shattered when I tapped them on the anvil. The larger pieces would shave curly cues off of 1020 with little effort.
Any and all suggestions are welcome.

i don't know for sure about yours, but some h&r shotguns use a transfer bar type system. this piece usually breaks. i think i have replaced several of these to each one that actually has a broken pin. gunparts sells the modern part and it is adaptable to the older guns, although it is not an installation without some issues.

I just got done makeing a new fireing pin.

I left it with .052" of protrusion. I measured my TC and set it at the same. I left most of the shank larger to just fit inside of the spring and then tapered down to go through the hole in the frame. I heated to a dull red, then quenched in oil. My camera doesn't take the best closeup pics so the details abit fuzzy. I used a 3/16" endmill for the recess. It turned out a nice deep black color. I was thinking of blueing it, but it looks pretty good. Will the flame blueing be resistant to rust like a regular blue would?

LAR45
After going to you site I thought it would be something you could do.

I bet one could to it with file and hacksaw, many a gun has been done that way ( more on this below).

WHEN you harden it, you will have to draw the temper or I think you had better carry a supply with you on a hunt<VBG>
When I saw the picture of the firing pin in GPC catalog I knew what was meant about the "designed to break" comment.

LouisB
Need a metalurgist to tell the color or draw temp for O-1.

A local guy built an entire muszzleloader (except barrel by hand, "just because he wanted to see if he could do it the old fashioned way"!

I LACK that level of patience

[ 09-17-2003, 04:44: Message edited by: TCLouis ]