If it is a penetrating oil finish and dries in 8 hrs, it likely is an alkyd or a urethane wiping varnish. Probably good stuff. I make mine from Tru-Oil and turpentine or BLO and turpentine. 2:1 ratio. The addition of turp to Tru-Oil creates a whole different animal. Nice satin sheen.
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Originally posted by richj: Anyone try this stuff. ordered a small.
That's true if you use TruOil as a built up finish, but if is used as an oil (in the wood) finish it can. That's the big reason we have returned to a lacquer finish for filled grain built up finishes. They can easily be repaired/refreshed. Repairs virtually invisible.
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Originally posted by Michael Robinson: If you scratch it or gouge it, can it be easily repaired?
Tru Oil cannot.
Posts: 3957 | Location: SC,USA | Registered: 07 March 2002
Yes, 2 parts TO to 1 part turp. You can delay tackiness by adding a little BLO. I brush it on with a foam brush and let it soak in. Then buff off any excess with a paper towel. Two coats does a nice military/utility finish. Looks like BLO, but has much better water resistance. Repairs like BLO.
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Originally posted by Michael Robinson: How do you make Tru Oil into an in-the-wood finish? Just dilute it with turpentine?
Posts: 3957 | Location: SC,USA | Registered: 07 March 2002
Boiled Linseed Oil. I use an authentic oil imported from Sweden. It is prepared the old way by simmering for several days. No metallic driers and all the water and organics are cooked out. Hence the name. Commercial BLO is raw linseed oil with driers added.
