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One of Us |
Wondering if anyone has info they can share on this trigger. My 700 is strictly a hunting gun - 338WM. Per the serial number it was manufactured in 2008. Since the XMP triggers were not externally adjustable until 2009 (looking at my trigger there are no external screws for adjusting), my understanding is that adjusting it would be quite a job. As it is, it's a crisp break but on the heavy side. Is it true that it may not even be worth it to attempt an adjustment? Even had a local gunsmith tell me this. Assuming yes, does anyone have experience with the Triggertech Primary? I have researched this and the Timney Standard, and was a bit surprised to see the TT getting more votes in the online forums. Again, it's only for hunting so not looking to spend Jewell $$. Thanks in advance. | ||
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One of Us |
Buy a Shilen and shitcan the factory trigger. | |||
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One of Us |
Butch, I will disagree. OP,The Trigger Tech Primary or Special is your best option. (click adjustable pull weight as take up & over travel are machined into the housings design) | |||
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one of us |
The trigger is fully adjustable. There are three adjustment screws for sear engagement, overtravel, and weight of pull. All adjustment screws are factory sealed with cyanoacrylate glue. Must be soaked in acetone for 6 hrs to release. Check sear by dropping on butt for inertia fire. Directions to adjust Walker trigger apply. | |||
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One of Us |
See if you can find a shop that has replaced some Remington triggers and try to buy an older Walker style trigger to replace the one you have now. The Walkers are a little easier to adjust down to about 2#. The X-Mark triggers are sometimes hard to get any decent trigger pull at all. "Peace is that brief glorious moment in history when everybody stands around reloading". | |||
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One of Us |
I have several of those Walker take-offs. PM me if interested. | |||
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one of us |
Using a small torch on the screws for 30-seconds or so will release the glue on those adjustment screws but its hit or miss as to wether or not adjusting them will do any good on the X Mark Pro (with little set screw in trigger). I’ve had pretty good luck adjusting the X Mark but the “Pro” is not worth even trying—just replace it. The original triggers are far better once modified to eliminate the trigger lever movement. If they’re steel I solder the lever to the trigger, and if the trigger is aluminum I epoxy them together; then set them up properly and you can get a wonderfully crisp 2.5# pull every time. John Farner If you haven't, please join the NRA! | |||
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One of Us |
The only instance I've had with this is my 700 CDL, manufactured in 2014 during the "bad" X Mark triggers. Remington would've happily replaced it for me, but that meant shipping it back and forth, going to the FFL, etc. In the end, I replaced it with a regular Timney trigger. Absolutely fantastic addition and a truly stellar hunting trigger. Took about 15 minutes to install, easily adjusted, and breaks perfectly. Mine is adjusted to about 2.5 lbs and I wouldn't have it any other way. For ~$100, it was an easy decision. _____________________________________________________ No safe queens! | |||
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One of Us |
+1. Roger ___________________________ I'm a trophy hunter - until something better comes along. *we band of 45-70ers* | |||
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One of Us |
The early(2006)introduction era X Mark & X Mark Pro trigger groups were recalled for excess sealer during assembly. A recall complied w/ trigger group will have a prick punch in the center of the bolt release lever. Acetone or finger nail polish remover works much better than heat from any torch to dissolve the sealer. Fwd falling sear bar Timney trigger groups are impeding firing pin fall...JUNK. | |||
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one of us |
Not for me. A torch has the screws turning in a few seconds. John Farner If you haven't, please join the NRA! | |||
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one of us |
Dan, How are the forward falling sears impeding firing pin fall any more than those which pivot at the front? Enquiring minds etc. Regards, Bill. | |||
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