Go | New | Find | Notify | Tools | Reply |
One of Us |
Was wondering where one would source high precision grind Preformed(also TiNitrided) thread cutting tools/inserts for barrel and receiver threads. Needed for cutting into tough 17-4 grade stainless. Which advanced cutting compounds/fluids do you recommend?(also to be used in chambering) | ||
|
one of us |
http://www.kaisertool.com/ Kaiser Thinbit tools were recommended to me several years ago. I resisted for a while because of the start up cost. They're worth every nickel. The first time I ordered, I tried carbide bits. That was a disaster. I talked to them about the problem, then ordered some HSS bits. No more problems. They have standard 60 degree but will custom grind. I had them make me a few 55 degree for Mauser threads. Mark Pursell | |||
|
One of Us |
Mr.Pursell, thanks for the K-T heads up. its right on the mark What was problem with carbide? Do you mind pointing out which actual ordercode internal and external tool holders you use? They seem to offer quite an array,and looking at the product code-price list, I dont precisely know whats what. | |||
|
one of us |
When I ordered, I called. They were more than helpful. Their on-line catalog must have been designed by the only engineer they were willing to spare that day. The bits I'm using are small, about 1/4". I can give you the stock number later if you need it. They're in the shop. I'm pretty sure the stock numbers are on the bits and tool holder. Every time I would thread a barrel with the carbide, the bit would break or chip. I talked to them on the phone, they said the carbide needed to run at some ungodly speed to work properly. Turning a Mauser tenon into a shoulder at 2000rpm+ would sure make your hair turn gray. The HSS were cheaper, can be touched up when needed and cut the purtiest threads. The TiN should work fine if that's what you need. Since I've been using these, I've changed the way I thread. I don't cut a relief groove. Once I engage the half-nut, I don't disengage it until I'm finish. When I reach the shoulder, I back the bit out while shutting off the lathe. I reverse the spindle to shuttle the bit back for the next cut. I had to do this once while cutting a metric thread and discovered how well it worked. No waiting for the thread dial to come back around, the bit ALWAYS picks up the next cut in the right spot and I'm finished in much less time than it use to take me. I use to use an indicator to help me back out at the right time but now I just watch the bit carefully. With the indicator, I banged into the shoulder occasionally but I haven't since doing without it. One less thing to watch maybe? Mark Pursell | |||
|
One of Us |
| |||
|
one of us |
Woodjack, The toolholder I have is Kaiser Thinbit 3/8" Right Hand L Series LFT38R. It has a 3/8" square shank that fits easily in my AXA Aloris. The bits I have are LGTTHSR. They measure 1/4" high, 3/16" wide. That bit is the HSS but they can get you that size in any material or coating you want. Mark Pursell | |||
|
One of Us |
Tnekkcc, Tap Magic+TiNcoatedHss+toxic smoke= smooth thread. MrPursell, much appreciate the stock numbers. I was taught early in my apprenticeship to leave the half nut engaged/reverse the machine,but still good to practice the disengaging method,...you know any monkey can be taught to ride a bicycle, but what happens when the chain falls off? Once again, thanks for enlightening me to Kaisertools good gear. | |||
|
Powered by Social Strata |
Please Wait. Your request is being processed... |
Visit our on-line store for AR Memorabilia