Just a question. Someone told me it's almost impossible to float a Ruger Mk II barrel. They said that everytime wood was removed, the action sunk deeper in the receiver. Is this true? How would I go about floating the barrel? I don't like the way the wood fits so tightly around the barrel.

Bob257

I have taken out the forend pressure pad to float the barrels on MkII's with no problem. Usually to try them out before glass bedding. The action will not sink deeper into the stock.

Was there a noticible difference in the accuracy before floating and after? Do you know of anyone who makes after marked fiberglass stocks?

Bob257

Both of the ones that I've done the free floating by itself made very little if any difference in group sizes. The biggest difference has always come from glass bedding the action. My last Ruger had pillars put in along with a bedding job and it's turned an honest 3 moa rifle into a .75 moa rifle with very little load development.

On some of them, when you float the entire barrel it will sink into the wood. I don't touch the first 3 inches, then float the rest and like anything else sometimes it helps a lot, sometimes not at all. If bedding is the problem, it will help, if it's the barrel, obviously it won't make a damn bit of difference. Work the trigger over glass bed the lug, float the rest.

I recently go a new one in 30/06, SS with laminated stock. The only thing changed was a "trigger job" to a little less than 3 pounds. It shoots into less than 30 mm at 100 meters with both 125 grain as well as 150 grain bullets and the first load I tried. Most likely the 165 and 180 grainer would even shoot better.

For a factory all-weather, all purpose gun, I couldn�t expect more.