Hi,
can anyone help on a Ruger no1 headspace(gap between the barrel and the block).I tried doing a google search but nothing. I am having to re plumb my 6.5-06 ackley.

regards
Griff

That would be a GO and NO GO gages in 30-06, Unless it's an improved, then the GO should become a NOGO.

I personally dont know of the top of my head if Ackley had both

The gap between the barrel and the block is not "headspace" by any definition and is meaningless.
And since you have a wildcat, it is further, irrelevant.
Make the brass fit the chamber; any gauging is superfluous since you already have the rifle.
Fire form brass and you will have perfect a fit.

I think Griff is asking what the clearance between breech block and barrel on a Ruger No.1 should be, not how to set headspace on any particular cartridge.

He used the word, headspace. I thought re-plumb meant re-load.
But if, by re-plumb, you mean, re-barrel, then the gap is not critical; just make it enough so the block slides freely. My factory ones are .018 and .007. I usually fit them fairly close.

Hi guys,
probably not the best description, but I was looking for the gap between the block and the barrel face,headspace is really irrelevant as it is a ackley, but I didn't know what else to call it.

Are there any advantages in having the zero clearance to lets say a 10thou clearance?
My original barrel plumbing the gap was set at 002" but it all went pear share when I had my 6.5-06 turned into an ackley, so having to cut 2.5" off the chamber and rechamber it myself..

regards
Griff

That would be clearance! You can check it with the breech closed and using a FEELER GAUGE. i try to get .OO8" TO .010".

You can't have zero clearance. The block would not open then. You are over thinking this. From the clearance on my two factory ones, you can see that Ruger doesn't consider it all that important either.

I set mine up with .005" clearance. The breechblock slides at 2 degrees from vertical so it is important to be sure the block is fully up to take the measurement. Quite often, the linkage does not raise the block all the way and the firing pin will actually strike low. I modify the lever to ensure the block is raised all the way up to where the firing pin strikes center.
Having much less the .005" is probably not a great idea for a hunting rifle and I wouldn't cry over .010". Regards, Bill.

I have no issue with the mentioned gap...005-010 seems reasonable, though when I taught at Lassen, the "Safety Breeching Class" wanted .005 The 700 format was popular then.

Gages...The proper way to set up an improved chamber is to use the GO as a NOGO..this would apply to the family of Improved 250/270, 30-06. etc. I think it would be logical to set up any "wildcat" to the norms of the parent case.

To disregard the normal, you could end up all over the map from being unable to chamber to non existent neck.

This 6.5 06 example is admittedly an anomaly but I'd still use gages, THEN go about fitting the cartridge for a slightly crush fit.

Even if some dummy stuffed in a 25-06, it would still not be a dangerous situation