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Any DIY Glass bedding tips?
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Gentlemen,
I am planning to glass bed a "beater" stock for a M70 FWT that I bought this spring. I had to modify the stock a bit to fit the new action, since the new FWTs are shaped a bit differently on the bottom metal. I have a little more woodwork to do before the action fits nice without binding. Here are the questions:

1. Do I need quite a bit of room to allow for the bedding material? How much room?

2. Are there any relatively straight forward kits I can buy that will give me ALL the necessary components(including release agents to apply to the metal)?

3. Is this a project that is even within my capabilities? I have not done this before, and while the stock has dings from the previous owner and my woodwork is not "custom-grade," I still want to do a job I can be proud of.

4. Are there any special insider tips that will help with this? What have you all done?

I am planning to tackle this on Saturday, if I can find a kit, and get enough input here.
Thanks for your comments and thoughts
I will report on the progress.
Straight Shooting,
Graham
 
Posts: 264 | Location: Northern BC, Canada | Registered: 28 November 2005Reply With Quote
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Picture of vapodog
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2. Are there any relatively straight forward kits I can buy that will give me ALL the necessary components(including release agents to apply to the metal)?



Get a green box kit from Brownells.....acraglas gel to be specific.

quote:
Any DIY Glass bedding tips?


YES.....ONE BIG ONE.....follow the directions!


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Posts: 28849 | Location: western Nebraska | Registered: 27 May 2003Reply With Quote
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Cut away a 1/8 inch gap behind the recoil lug. The rest can be a skim coat.

The Brownells kit has all you really need. I use Hornady One Shot Case Lube in the spray can for release agent. I find it easier to apply, but the Brownells blue liquid works just fine as-is. You will want to pick up a small bit of kids' modeling clay at Kmart to fill gaps with.

Good luck!

Clemson


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Posts: 339 | Location: Greenwood, SC | Registered: 06 February 2004Reply With Quote
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a couple more - be sure you have a good coating on everything with the release agent. take it off latter with WD40 & fine steel fur. Take excess glass off before it sets by wiping with a rag & vinegar. Rather than bedding the whole action anymore I cut grooves sort of like a national match m14 is bedded and bed accordingly. Don't get in a hurry. clean off your hands after with vinegar it cuts the epoxy quickly
 
Posts: 13466 | Location: faribault mn | Registered: 16 November 2004Reply With Quote
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Be sure to tape up the outside of the stock with masking or painters tape. I have found that trimming the excess that oozes out of the stock when you set the action in the stock is best done after the epoxy firms up some--just when it gets a little harder than a wad of used chewing gun. Use a sharp exacto blade and "CAREFULLY" trim the excess around the edges--don't scratch the metal etc... just go easy. Much easier than trying to sand or grind it off when it gets hard.
 
Posts: 721 | Registered: 03 March 2005Reply With Quote
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M70classic

Send an email to ramrod340@hotmail.com and I'll send you an article about bedding written by Jack Belk.

KY Nimrod---sorry I sent it to you by mistake homer


As usual just my $.02
Paul K
 
Posts: 12881 | Location: Mexico, MO | Registered: 02 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Get a piece of hard plastic and file a chisel edge on it to cut excess bedding. It will not scratch the barrel nor will it cut through the tape and mess up the wood. You have to catch the bedding at the right point so it cuts before getting too hard. If done right there is no clean up after the tape is removed.
Two coats of a good paste wax makes a good release agent and I dip my action screws in it to fill the threads.
 
Posts: 4068 | Location: Bakerton, WV | Registered: 01 September 2003Reply With Quote
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I get a couple of long bolts the size and thread pitch of the action screws. I cut the heads off. Screw these into the action. Apply plenty of release agent to them. These should extend throught the stock by a couple of inches. When bedding I use these to aline the bottom metal and use surgical tubing to hold the action into place while the bedding material cures. Saves the action screw from getting epoxy all over them and insures the bottom metal will fit right into place. Put a dab of epoxy under the receiver ring and a little under the tang. You could even put a little dab under the recoil lug. Make a set and then walk away for a day. On day two start over by pulling the action. The two little dabs will then tell you the thickness of epoxy you will need. Fill up to the heights of the two dabs or just slightly over and make another set. Don't forget the release agent. You will be well on you way to a good bedding job. Good luck!


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Posts: 2758 | Location: Northern Minnesota | Registered: 22 September 2005Reply With Quote
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