How far can you cut back the side of the rear bridge around the extractor and still be safe? I've noticed on some that they are cut back enough to expose the rear of the extractor, as below....



...can this cause any problems?

Roger

I cut them all the way back to make the front of the bridge even all the way across and down. True, the extractor end is exposed, but it poses no problems.
It is not under any rotary torque loading.

I really have to differ...there is torque and it can raise the rear of the extractor up, The extractor fit will determine just how much movement, But, you can get a pretty good jam...I'VE SEEN IT HAPPEN.

It can be mitigated by a bevel on the upper rear of the extractor and a matching bevel on the upper rail.

Better yet, don't expose the end and instead do a clearance bevel on the inside of the bridge (ala Pre 64 M-70)

Maybe if your collar fits too tight. I have never had a problem doing it that way...
And they look awkward leaving receiver metal there.

I'm with Duane on this one, have seen it, have caused it and will always have the tail of the extractor buried under the rear bridge, even if it only happens as the bolt is moving rearward as the bolt engages the cam angles

Well....never saw a factory bolt gun with the extractor tail exposed....and I think for good reason Longer extractors were and sill are available (for Mauser's anyway)

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):
Well....never saw a factory bolt gun with the extractor tail exposed

03 Springfield???

I'd still like to have the tail of the extractor buried in the rear bridge.

Anyone want to pay what it takes to build 1 extra long extractor for an Enfield?

I am a little late to this party, I see Duane and D'Arcy has covered the issue well so far.

YES this can be a BIG problem, I know from first hand experiance.

Back in the early 1980's I did just what is pictured, opened the rear bridge up longer as the action was being converted to a 375 H&H. During the rail work, I got a cartidge in the chamber, and trying to open the bolt everything come to a sudden STOP.

Try as I might I could not open the bolt anymore, but the bolt handle would close ???, it just would stop part way up.

What happened was a tight fitting cartidge was in the chamber, and the torqe of lifting the bolt handle would TIP the rear tail of the extractor UP and then jam it into the front edge of the newly machined back bridge. This went on for a while before I found out the problem, ( I was a slow learner at that time in my life )

OK I sat the rifle aside for a while until I figured out how to fix the issue.

The extra long extractors for Enfields and Mausers that I made for years was a direct result of that problem on that Enfield

Lesson learned, and remembered

Jim Wisner

I was hoping for an informed reply, but I suppose I'll have to take what I can get....( sarcasm )

WOW..answers from five of the best...please excuse the hero worship, but I'm overwhelmed. Thank you gentlemen.

Roger

Thank you gentlemen. You just might have shortened my learning curve a bit. Appreciate the sharing of your knowledge.

From a pure visual perspective 'short' extractors with corresponding 'exposed' channel in the rear bridge make a rifle look bodged to me. Seen several photos of actions opened up for longer cartridges where the bridge has been cut back for no real reason when opening up an action for a longer cartridge.
The resulting short extractor and exposed channel just draws attention to a worked action.

To what extent do you have to cut the rear receiver ring back on the side, even if lengthening the magazine box and altering the bolt stop?

I'd always thought ejecting cases just came out anyway, with the momentum of the neck end leveraging the head against the ring to pull the rim off the extractor.

Is the larger portal needed for loading?

Perhaps you don't really "have to" , but I always cut the right bridge side all the way back to be even with the clip guide cut.
It looks better and cleaner, too much ugly iron there, and on the left side as well; (I eliminate the bolt stop spring big round seat and mill all that steel off too) and although I see a couple have had problems with the extractor, I have never had that happen. But I've only done about 20 of them. And as stated, the 1903 Springfield extractor is not supported by the receiver rear and it works.

We have the Goldilocks version .. not too long, not too short. The bridge is even and the extractor just tucks under it. Just right! P14 recontoured, magnafluxed, with custom stainless long magnum box.

.....pics?

Roger

Unf the pics I have show the stripped bolt in the receiver .. will try to take a photo of the assembled bolt in the action. These are P14s, maybe the geometry is a bit more forgiving? afaik the P17 and 14 are not identical but the main difference is in the locking lugs and the mag box. Anyway you can see the kit here (Sorry, looks like the link police deleted the link)

I guess they don't permit links but if you are a little savvy you can find the photos ... seems small-minded if you ask me.

Here is a photo of an assembled action showing the rear part of the action opening and the extractor tucked under it. There is only about 1/16" of tuck but that's all you need.

The contour is same as Rem 700 so easy to find scope mounts.

P14 Extractor

again, seems you have to do it this way or the highway

Thanks Russ, that pic tells me a lot.

Roger

quote:

Originally posted by dpcd:
Perhaps you don't really "have to" , but I always cut the right bridge side all the way back to be even with the clip guide cut.
It looks better and cleaner, too much ugly iron there, and on the left side as well; (I eliminate the bolt stop spring big round seat and mill all that steel off too) and although I see a couple have had problems with the extractor, I have never had that happen. But I've only done about 20 of them. And as stated, the 1903 Springfield extractor is not supported by the receiver rear and it works.

Thanks dpcd, it seems I haven't looked in on this thread for a while.

I don't suppose you could cut the bridge back just a bit and fill in what remains of the clip guide?

Sure you could weld in the clip slot some. Or leave it; doesn't hurt anything. Lots of ways to skin this cat. Not that I have ever skinned one.

I recently had a friend bring in 3 of those sportized P14 Enfields that Century Arms did years ago. he wanted me to clean up that flared upward rear bridge. OK.

So two of them were ERA marked, and just machining that right side of the port back to the rear flat of the stripper slot left .040" of the extractor tail inside the rear bridge.

The third receiver was a Winchester and beleive it or not the rear of the striper slot was .035" farther forward from the two ERA marked receivers.

For those in the States, I do have some extra long replacement Enfield 14/17 extractors, with the M70 thicker hook shape machined for the 30-06 cartidge size, that could be opened up to a larger cartidge. I also still have a few extractors all ready set up for the 505 Gibbs cartidge.

Jim Wisner

quote:

Originally posted by J Wisner:
I recently had a friend bring in 3 of those sportized P14 Enfields that Century Arms did years ago. he wanted me to clean up that flared upward rear bridge. OK.

So two of them were ERA marked, and just machining that right side of the port back to the rear flat of the stripper slot left .040" of the extractor tail inside the rear bridge.

The third receiver was a Winchester and beleive it or not the rear of the striper slot was .035" farther forward from the two ERA marked receivers.

For those in the States, I do have some extra long replacement Enfield 14/17 extractors, with the M70 thicker hook shape machined for the 30-06 cartidge size, that could be opened up to a larger cartidge. I also still have a few extractors all ready set up for the 505 Gibbs cartidge.



Jim Wisner

Wow. I was just about to ask. I noticed just last night that one of my Model 30s had the clip slot eliminated and could use a longer extractor. I need to check the others.

Lee

What do you charge for a longer extractor? Sending PM.

Gentlemen , Is there something that I do not understand here, I have been playing with Enfields now for nigh on 50 years as a hobby gunsmith. If the front of the extractor is still captive in the front receiver ring how is that going to be an issue. I have an Eddystone receiver in front of me and if I was to remove all the metal from the face of the charger guide slot forward (about 3/8 inch) at the most then the extractor would clear the rear receiver ring. However the extractor would still be captive in the front ring. By the time the extractor leaves the confines of the front ring the rear of the extractor is safely tucked away inside the rear receiver ring. If I was concerned about the issue I could silver solder a filler block to the rear of the extractor and dress it up
Sincerely,
Vaughn Gunthorpe
Australia

Some of them (I surmise it's a P17 problem rather than a P14 problem) allow the extractor to twist a little causing the tail end to crash into the receiver rather than entering the slot. There is a reason these claw extractors are designed to run almost the full length of the bolt, on both this rifle and the Mauser. It's also a matter of aesthetics.

Hello all, I am seeking some guidance .
I am building a 416 Rigby on a Winchester M17 Receiver. I have altered the receiver to the extent that the bolt stop button pad has gone,the duckpond gone, and the receiver bridge profiled the same contour/ height as the front. Yes I know the Remington profile is lower.
As regards the bolt stop,This leaves me with the option of just bending the bolt stop spring at 90 degrees, cutting and resting the stub on what is left of the pad,this still leaves me with the prospect of building up the lug on the existing Bolt stop and recutting the face to let the bolt retreat further back into the bridge
Making up a new bolt stop from scratch.
Or fitting a bolt stop off something like a Mauser . If I go that way I would possibly have to move the Bolt stop attachment lugs forward which would mean silver soldering a lug in place. I have read that it is recommended to beef up the Bolt stop retaining pin. Has anyone any advice on this subject and will the silver solder be sufficient to hold the lugs against the pounding of the bolt stop spring, or is there any alternative plans or drawings that someone would like to share with me
Thanking You Vaughn Gunthorpe