Guys, I picked up a ZKK-601 this weekend at the gun show for an absolute song. I mean I stole it. The gun only has one issue in my eyes. The single set trigger needs to be adjusted or worked. The trigger mechanism on these things is really screwy though. The trigger is a separate piece that comes off when you take off the trigger guard. Anyway, the trigger when set is about 2 lbs, and obviously since it's a set trigger I'd like it to be about half that. Unfortunately or fortunately the other Brno I have has a nice trigger already, so I never had to do any work to it at all.

My question is this. For the single set portion of the trigger, how do I lighten the trigger up? There's a flat mainspring that provides the force to the set trigger to fire the normal trigger. Then there's the sear which runs down the center of the trigger itself. My thought was to polish the mating surfaces of the sear so that I'm not fighting any metal finish issues there (because these things are all rough), but that's not going to help with the weight... or do you guys think getting that sear properly stoned/polished is going to do the trick? I'm thinking that right now if I get the sear stoned and polished that I might be good to go, but would like any other info you guys might have.

FWIW when my 'smith adjusted both Brno and CZ 550 triggers for me (to 3#) the set function went away, which is fine with me.

Heh... he adjusted it down too far. I had my CZ-550 do the same thing to me when I was screwing with it. I backed it off and now it works properly and there's a marked difference between set and un-set. Set is probably 1lb or less, haven't measured it, and unset is probably 2.5-3 lbs. The Brno is a different animal though and it's not something I can just turn a screw on. It's going to take some labor.

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Originally posted by Kingfisher:

The Brno is a different animal though and it's not something I can just turn a screw on. It's going to take some labor.

Yes, a quite different animal. I'm not even sure why the set trigger was ever fitted to the ZKK series. I've owned and loved the ZKKs since the late 1960s. When new they came with both "set" and "regular" triggers...one in the gun, and the other hanging in a little green velvet pouch attached to the trigger guard.

At any rate the ZKK set trigger (it's a single-set trigger not a double-set trigger, for those who haven't seen one), was not intended to be adjusted to a really light pull. And for a 2-lb.+ trigger, it is a bloody awkward shape in my hands...a straight bar with an inset which reminds one of the similar piece on the Savage trigger, but without either the adjustment facility por the curved shape of the Savage. When I'm pulling more than a few ounces, I much prefer a curved trigger, such as the "regular" trigger for the ZKK.


The BRNO set-trigger could be unsafe at a very light setting, in-so-much-as the sear and trigger are attached to different major parts of the gun, whoich perhaps could shift their relationship with each other during hard use in the field.. Of course, that is true with many different kinds of set-triggers, where part was attached to the receiver, and the trigger(s), spring(s) and "kick-off" were often attached to the lower tang/trigger guard....

On all of mine that I got new, I simply removed the set-triggers and used each rifle with the regular trigger installed.....which is about two-to-four minutes work with a pin punch and/or the tool which came with the spare trigger in the velvet pouch. A full set of instructions for exchanging the triggers also came originally in the box with the new rifles.

I haven't seen my trigger-switching instructions for about 30 years, but if I run across them one of these days, I'll try to post them. As I have sold several of those rifles, I just hope I didn't give away all my copies of the trigger instructions with the sold guns....

(And, wouldn't you know it, the used one I have now came with TWO set triggers and no regular trigger, dang it!!! Some previous owner foul-up, no doubt.)

Well, I took it all the way down to bare bones when I got home from work this evening. No need for instructions. It's pretty straight forward. I polished up the mating surfaces of the sear and the little round bar that it catches on which essentially is a pin with a round end and a flat end so that it wont turn. With the surfaces cleaned up, atleast as good as I can do with ultra-fine paper I've got on hand it's much better, I can live with it now.

Unfortunately the rifle didn't come with the standard trigger, and considering I basically stole the rifle (got a hell of a good deal) I'm not going to complain. Plus, I like the set trigger on these. I could probably get the finish even smoother, but I think it would be a lot of effort for minimal return.

The other screwy thing on this gun is the Conetrol rings. Have you ever seen those things? They look fantastic, but don't even think about taking them off. Holy moly. I needed to slide the scope back about 1/2 an inch to get the eye relief to my liking and I like to never have gotten the rings back on properly. Somehow I did it, and somehow the scope is straight. Pure luck. If I ever have to take it off again, I'll just bite the bullet and get some regular CZ style rings.

Meanwhile it's sitting in the cleaning cradle. As dirty as the bore appears to be from some of the initial patches, it's liable to take several overnight soaks to get this thing squeaky.

Talley make a very good set of rings for these rifles. You can also find CZ made rings that will foot the bill. Theseare designed to fit the double square bridge dovetail. Sounds like you've got a made up system...hope gun is not drilled and tapped.

Actually these are a production item. Conetrol is an outfit out of central Texas (local). The rings are slick looking, but the installation is murder. The rings are bored and then cut VERTICALLY and shipped as a matched pair. The vertical piece wouldn't be so bad if they were like the Warne's, but they're not. They're held together... get this... by a special little cap on the top which was also part of the actual ring when it was made then cut off later (this is intentional) and then at the bottom they're pinched via a screw that goes into each side of the base. The bases are similar to a universal/dual-dovetail type setup, and these bases are made for the CZ, it's the rings that are screwy. The rings are so "grippy" that it's virtually impossible to rotate or slide the scope once you have the rings around it and because the each ring is basically a 3 piece setup, it takes someone with 4 arms to get it set up. You've got each half of the ring, then the cap on top of the rings which holds the top end together and keeps it from separating, just as the screws in the base do for the bottom. Like I said... screwy. They sure do look nice though, and I have no doubts that they're going to hold the scope through a nuclear blast.

Conetrol Rings

I'm familar with Conrol rings. There very slim and stylish hoever not very friendly. Sometimes the bases are fixed to the rifle by D&T...sounds like yours are not. I use Talleys on mine although the CZ custom steel rings are a nice set up...got a couple 601's.....using the standard trigger and on occasion will put in the single set.

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On all of mine that I got new, I simply removed the set-triggers and used each rifle with the regular trigger installed.....which is about two-to-four minutes work with a pin punch and/or the tool which came with the spare trigger in the velvet pouch.

Same here with my ZKK 600. And the gun looks better for it too!

There's something wrong with you guys. Those ugly pigs just aren't the same without the ugly trigger too.

If you are using a scope without a front "bell", like many of the 2-1/2 or 3-X scopes on the market, BRNO makes a very classy, very low 1-piece mount with the lower half of the rings integral to the base. The base, of course, slides onto the double dovetails of the receiver. I had one on my 7x57 ZKK 601, with a 2-1/2-X Meopta in it. Was a super rig. Have been kicking myself for over 30 years for ever selling it... These days am still kicking myself, but now so hard (from all that practice) I think I could make 75-yard FGs for the NFL.

You know, this one doesn't look half bad with the Leupold on it even with the 2-piece Conetrol bases (which also dovetail on to the reciever). This thing was more of a project buy, i.e. I wanted a Brno action for a project, but I'm looking forward to screwing around with the 308 a bit and seeing what the gun will do. If it's anything like the other Brno I have it'll be a one-holer. I was looking for a medium action for a project and ended up with a short, so what I may do instead is take the medium/long action CZ that I have (in 22-250) and use that for the project, then rebarrel the 308 in 22-250 with a faster twist so that I can use heavy bullets... because I'd still like to have a .22 centerfire in my arsenal. Of course, that means two rebarrel jobs... so this one may take a while.