Say you ground this down, and did okay on one side but have a slight slope down on the other. Can you weld and add material, if you're going to have it heat treated, or leave it slightly sloped?

Steve

quote:

Originally posted by skl1:
Say you ground this down, and did okay on one side but have a slight slope down on the other. Can you weld and add material, if you're going to have it heat treated, or leave it slightly sloped?

Steve

Steve,

I think you need to be a bit more descriptive and specific before anyone can offer an answer or suggestion to your question.

Perhaps a good starting point would be to tell us what rifle/magazine assembly you are talking about and what you consider as the “loading flange.â€

Sure, sorry Rick,

It's a surplus Mauser. I've ground down the magazine loading flange on the rear receiver bridge (where you speed load with stripper clips) so it's flat and can take standard Leupold bases. The right (bolt) side is nice and flat, but the left (bolt stop) side drops about .003 or .004 from the flat as you move forward on the action down the "lip" of the stripper clip slot. I think I could use 60 grit and make it flat or add material by welding. and re-grind. Not sure whether it'll be stronger avoiding the welding heat or grinding down the rear receiver bridge. It's not real noticeable, particularly with a base installed. Might just leave it.

skl1,

I will start by qualifying that I am not an expert on Mausers...but in general I would always lean toward careful filing/stoning/grinding rather than welding on the receiver of any rifle, Mauser or otherwise. In addition to the danger of heat migrating to critical areas you also have the problem of trying to get the welded area to take bluing that will match the rest of the receiver.

Look how thin that area is on a 1903 Springfield...or look at all the split bridge rifles out there that have nothing at all in that area.

Again, though...I know squat about Mausers so you would be better off getting some input from a guy who does before pulling out the grinder or the welder.

I would be relucant to weld on an action. The two options I'd look at are to take the metal down to get rid of the low spot, or, bed the sight base in steelbed and call it good.

Only three or four thousants? Shim it.

Okay,

Thanks guys.

Steve