I need to know what the threading is (dia. and tpi) for a Svavage Striker and an XP-100.
Thanks
Bill

I've never worked with the Savage whatever it is but the Remington uses 1.062 x 16 standard 60 degree "V".

Most Remington factory ballels are cut to 1.050 Major Dia. so they'll fit undersize threads caused by dull or re-ground tooling.

Jack,
I recently had occasion to remove the barrel from a stainless 700 in 300RUM. The threads in the receiver appeared to have been cut with a single point tool (it chattered) but the thing that caught my attention was the thread major diameter of 1.029"! This looked like one of those that could have benefitted from some duct tape as described by Bill Soverns a while back. Not only were the threads undersied but they had been "split". Ugly. Regards, Bill.

Jack & Bill,
My 'smith tells me the factory Rem 700 barrel threads are cut with a pipe die, this is for mass production. It would not suprise me if Savage was doing the same. And most would be suprised if they knew which custom barrelmaker also rebarrels using a pipe die.(At least for their off the street customers) MtnHtr

Mtn Hntr--

Most of the companys use self opening die heads an auto lathes for threading......but that's considerably different than tapered pipe threads.

Bill-- Was that a factory barrel that had jumped index?? It sounds like they're depending more and more to that stinking glue they add to hold the barrel in.
I've seen two recently that had very rough receiver threads.

It's a shame. Plumbing parts are better and cheaper than ever.....guns are rougher and more expensive. Something's cock-eyed somewhere.

Jack,
The barrel was (so far)secure but had been fired very little. It was loaded with glue of course. If these rifles are truly proofed I'm shocked that this one would have passed with what was, at best, a 40% thread. Regards, Bill.

Nothing wrong with using a Geometric Die head to cut barrel threads. I have one and it works just as well as a single point tool. This is way different than a pipe thread believe me. I've also seen some terrible threading on remingtons lately and that damn glue is driving me crazy getting barrels off. Cz is the worst!-Rob

Jack,
The concept is the same you get my drift, anyways the result is cockeyed threads. MtnHtr

Rob,
Guess it boils down to the person behind the tooling to some extent. Anyways I had a custom barrel rechambered recently, the 'smith noticed the barrel threads wobbling pretty badly in the lathe(around .020"). I wanted a shorter shank anyways so it was not a problem - he cut the wobbly threads off and rethreaded the barrel. MtnHtr

Robgunbuilder---

The geometric die head is great as long as the bore is concentric with the outside AND the collet or chuck is concentric with both the outside of the barrel and the bore. OEM barrels are infamous for being neither.

I pull a lot of barrels. I've found the best way to break loose the gorrilla snot glue is to spray WD-40 in the action so that it puddles at the butt of the barrel/receiver ring junction. Then heat the receiver ring with a propane torch until the WD-40 suddenly leaves. The barrel will usually break loose with about half the usual force. It works especially good with CZs, but some are so hard against the inner ring it takes some big grunts to break them.

Thanks for the tip, Jack. I'll try that on the next one I pull. - Dan