Hows the best way to glass bed the forearm hanger on a #1 with out sticking everything together ?Thought abought plugging everything up with modeling clay and lots of paste wax.
Any suggestions will be wellcome !!

Forget the past wax...I NEVER had any good luck with ANY brand of wax...dammed things ALWAYS stuck together

Use the blue liquid epoxy release compound from Brownells, the gel type of epoxy or better yet one of the steel/alum containing compounds then add a add bit more of the powered metal, also from Brownells, to make it slightly stiffer than cold honey...AND be sure to plug the holes.

Make small "dams" around the various locations to contain the epoxy but still allow it to squish out under the pressure of several wraps of electricians tape.

Back about 40 years there was an article in one of the trade mags outlining the various ways to bed the Ruger including just how much and where to remove wood and relieve any wood/metal stress points and where to reinforce with additional epoxy bedding...you'll just have to dig for that.

I've bedded several R#1'..."free floating" the barrel, except for 3 points, and full bedding the barrel and free floating the mount extension except for installing an alum bedding block under the extension to lock against.

They all worked well and I never could decide which was the "best"

I think Brownells had a pamphlet about the procedure at one time, but you can contact them for reference material...the "Gunsmith Kinks" books DID have some good blurbs on the subject.

I did a 25-05 HB varminter both ways just to check it out but still couldn't discern any difference...bedding just 3 points was MUCH easier so I stuck with that way.

Then again...I had a 22-250 that I didn't do anything to it but shoot it and it was as accurate as my other varminters' with a couple of prepped loads....go figure.

This subject has been explored before several times on several forums so you might also do some "searching" to dig out the info.


Wish I had a couple of those shooter back again.

Hmm; I have used only Johnson's paste wax for release agent since 1969 on at least 100 guns and never had any problems; I never have used the blue stuff that comes with Acraglas. Use modeling clay to keep it out of places you don't want it to go.

I've had the best of luck with paste wax myself.
The rifle in question was an honest 2" gun @ 100yds with all the hand loads I tried. I pulled the forearm as it had a pressure point and lots of contact. Shooting it with the forearm removed, its putting 3 well into 3/4" (300 Win mag) I then floated the BBL channel and reattached it. It's shooting 1 1/4" now.
The prblem is the forearm will not settle. I figured that glassing it would keep it in place.
Keeping the compound (acra glass gell) from seeping into the springs and forearm nut is what has got my attention. The forearm all so seems to want to rise in the front where the pressure point was. Thats also got me scratching my head.........

I'm working on a No. 1 RSI now. That's the model with the 18" barrel and full length stock. Any special considerations on this model?

I think the RSI #1 is a bad idea for accuracy but that is purely my opinion and I have a few #1s. I love Mannlichers and only expect fair hunting accuracy from them. That way I am never disappointed.