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"Bluing" Aluminum Floorplate???
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<9.3x62>
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How does one refinish aluminum bottom metal from, say, a pre-64 FW? TIA...
 
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I just went through this and there are a couple of options.

First, aluminum isn't "blued"...blueing is a form of oxidized iron.

This was my solution:

Send the bottom metal, buttplate and magazine box to Robar in Arizona and for $40 they will strip the parts and apply a satin finish baked on coating guaranteed not to flake or peel called Roguard. It cost a grand total of $40.

Second option, send it to a company that specializes in anodizing aluminum. This is as good as Roguard but not any better IMO.

Third option, buy a can of one of Brownell's spray on finishes...Moly-coat, dura-coat, gun-kote, aluma-hyde, etc and do it yourself.

Fourth option, buy a pre-finished steel replacement set from someone like Williams but you will have to do some inletting...its not drop in.

I went with the Ro-guard for two reasons. Replacement bottom metal from Williams is very nice stuff...but its heavy, about $150, and requires some inletting of the stock. Second, I wanted to keep the original lightweight aluminum.

Robar has coated several handguns for me and they do superb work and Roguard is a durable coating that will wear well in my experience.
It may not be the best choice for a handgun that will see several thousand practice presentations. But for bottom metal on a rifle its more than adequate.
 
Posts: 721 | Registered: 03 March 2005Reply With Quote
<9.3x62>
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Yes, I knew it couldn't be blued in the traditional sense (hence the quote marks), and thanks for the options. I'll take a look into these. I am trying to keep things light, so I Williams is not an option. In fact, I often go that route, but not this time. Thanks again.
 
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I have three rifles with Rogard coating on all exterior metal and NP3 coating on the bolts, and have nothing but good things to say about it. It’s durable, self lubricating, nice looking, and in my opinion is very reasonably priced.
 
Posts: 4574 | Location: Valencia, California | Registered: 16 March 2005Reply With Quote
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Birchwood Casey sells a solution to blacken aluminum. Don't know what's in it.


"A cheerful heart is good medicine."
 
Posts: 1325 | Location: Bristol, Tennessee, USA | Registered: 24 December 2003Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Ricochet:
Birchwood Casey sells a solution to blacken aluminum. Don't know what's in it.


I’ve used that stuff as well as its sister product for brass...and it leaves allot to be desired in the final finish. Blending it in is not an easy task and it is very easy to end up with an uneven, spotted or streaked finish.
 
Posts: 4574 | Location: Valencia, California | Registered: 16 March 2005Reply With Quote
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I spray painted mine with a couple of coats of
spray can "satin" black Rust Oleum paint. looks
good if you do it carefully & actually holds up real good! Quick & easy.
Have taken the rifle through brush, hunting & the
Rust Oleum paint coat holds up just fine. Not as durable as the other suggestions, however, it can
easily be repainted every few years if needed.
Tom
 
Posts: 262 | Location: Wyoming, U.S.A. | Registered: 11 November 2004Reply With Quote
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A trick I've used is bar-b-que paint baked-on in the oven. Did a couple ARs this way and stuff never showed any sign of wear under light to moderate use.


John Farner

If you haven't, please join the NRA!
 
Posts: 2946 | Location: Corrales, NM, USA | Registered: 07 February 2001Reply With Quote
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That Birchwood Casey stuff stinks like hell and as previously stated leaves much to be desired. I used it once a long time ago.....the remainder of it is collecting dust in the shop.
 
Posts: 1268 | Location: Newell, SD, USA | Registered: 07 December 2001Reply With Quote
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