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Can someone help me? I would like to oil finish a walnut browning A-bolt stock. I would like it to resemble the look my Cooper and Kimber rifle have. What are the steps of procedure and suplies and tools ect. Thanks for any help ________________________________________________ Maker of The Frankenstud Sling Keeper Proudly made in the USA Acepting all forms of payment | ||
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Ted, Buy the book "The Guns Digest book of RifleSmithing" by Jack Mitchell. It has a really good section on Oil Finishes. Basically you let a coat soak in and dry for a week. You then Wet sand in a coat to use as a filler and let it dry for a week. The next wet sand coat you wipe down and have a nice finish. You can rub a few more in if you want. When sanding always use a block so you don't have dips and rounded lines.............DJ ....Remember that this is all supposed to be for fun!.................. | |||
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Ted, if you decide to tackle the job, strip the old finish off of your stock. Trying to remove that stuff with sand paper is an excercise in frustration. Mark Pursell | |||
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I'm in the middle of putting an oil finish on my A-Bolt Hunter and I absolutely agree with the recommendation of using a stripper to remove the old finish. Mine had a very thick epoxy type finish on it. I used a product called Certistrip from Brownells. It worked fairly well but still took several applications to get all the stuff off. I applied the Certistrip and let is set for a while then used a 1" plastic putty knife to remove the epoxy. For the checkering, I applied the Certistrip and took a small stiff brisseled plastic brush to remove the epoxy in there. After the old finish was removed, there was actually a pretty nice piece of wood there. It's not Kimber grade but it's starting to look pretty good after a few coats of oil. For the oil finish, I'm also using a Brownells product call African Express Old English Stock finishing kit. It comes with about everything you need. They provide pretty good instructions and recommend wiping the stock with Turpintine between each coating of oil. After a few coats of oil, the stock is starting to look shinny so if you are going for the Kimber look this may not be the best product for you. | |||
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Browningwgm: I would like to strip the stock on my A-bolt medallion. I was just wondering if the checkering remained sharp when you were done stripping and finishing? ------------------------------------ Originally posted by BART185 I've had another member on this board post an aireal photograph of my neighborhood,post my wifes name,dig up old ads on GunsAmerica,call me out on everything that I posted. Hell,obmuteR told me to FIST MYSELF. But you are the biggest jackass that I've seen yet, on this board! -------------------------------------- -Ratboy | |||
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mousegun, The checkering isn't as sharp as before I started but I didn't know any other way of getting the epoxy out. I figured I could live with checkering not being as sharp. It's still got pretty good grip but not like original. You might even be able to get some checkering tools and go over it once finished to sharpen it up. This is my first time doing something like this so I am learning as I go. I'm doing my A-Bolt Hunter first and have a A-Bolt White Gold Medallion I'd like to do later on. I figured I'd learn on my Hunter then tackle my WGM. | |||
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Is walnut filler used to fill the pores and add darkness before oil is applied? ________________________________________________ Maker of The Frankenstud Sling Keeper Proudly made in the USA Acepting all forms of payment | |||
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