I have forged some bolts, don't like how they turned out, too short, and it's alot of work to shape it. I was thinking about buying the Wheeler bolt jig at Midway, but the Wheeler bolts don't look very nice.
Posts: 3097 | Location: Louisiana | Registered: 28 November 2001
The Talley handle is nice. I make one that is similar but with a knob a little more like the Oberndorf handle. Both take a bit of work but will make a real nice bolt. Regards, Bill.
Talley makes nice ones, that require a bit of shaping. The Dakota handle is all pre-shaped, just needs polishing and bevelling at the edges. I used it once, but I'm not sure I like the ~20+ degrees of backward sweep. I've seen the Brownells on other people's guns, and they look pretty nice, although I like straight bolt handles.
Todd
Posts: 1248 | Location: North Carolina | Registered: 14 April 2001
The problem with most commercial bolt handles is that they are too short.I saw the factory bolt off, take a #5 hardness threaded bolt the same diameter, saw off a half inch piece of it,and wire weld to the bolt, and then wire weld back on the bolt body. I can adjust the curve to suit.I use a heat sink in the bolt body and a wet cloth on the outside and do one side of the handle at a time to control the heat better.I did a bolt yesterday using a Dakota handle for the first time, and may have to use high rings to clear the scope.And am not sure I like the backward sweep.
Posts: 200 | Location: Tin Top .Texas | Registered: 21 August 2001
I once spec'd a bolt handle for the looks, and was unhappy with the high scope mounting it required, not enough clearance. They will all cycle the action, and some are prettier than others, but make sure you pick one that meets your scope mounting needs as well.
[This message has been edited by Patrick (edited 12-04-2001).]
I have made several interesting bolt handles from "buffalo horn". I take a piece of steel rod, turn it to a diameter, thread about 2" of it. I aquired some "buffalo horn" (Indian, I think) from a knife makers supply turned in about 1" rounds. Drill and tap this. Thread it onto the rod, and turn it to shape. At the weld end, I leave a shoulder for the horn to butt against. Take the shaped horn off, bevel the end for welding and put it on. After the bolt is finished, screw the horn on with a bit of epoxy. BTW: anybody have any idea where I might find a piece of horn big enough for a buttplate?
I like the Talley handle for several reasons. I love the classic tear drop shape The handle comes with the stub of the bar stock it was machined from still on so that it is very easy to chuck in the lathe to do any creative touches that you want.
------------------ NRA Life member
Posts: 8351 | Location: Jennings Louisiana, Arkansas by way of Alabama by way of South Carloina by way of County Antrim Irland by way of Lanarkshire Scotland. | Registered: 02 November 2001
Patrick, That was the fault of the installer, not the bolt handle..It was placed wrong. Make him cut it off and reweld it so that you can use low mounts.
[This message has been edited by Bear Claw (edited 12-17-2001).]
Posts: 8351 | Location: Jennings Louisiana, Arkansas by way of Alabama by way of South Carloina by way of County Antrim Irland by way of Lanarkshire Scotland. | Registered: 02 November 2001
