Anyone know...is the LH action fitted with LH barrel threads? Tried both directions,
I have one that defies all attempts to remove the barrel..this with a vise that I can take off Enfield barrels!

Off the top of my head they are standard right hand thread Duane. The only leftys that come to mind are the Ross and some of the Colt pistol barrels.

If the barrel is scrap, chuck it in the lathe and take a parting cut .005 inch ahead of the receiver about 1/10th of an inch deep to relive the pressure.

LH Montana actions are right hand threads. If either the action or barrel or both are stainless they may be gaulded.

Yeah...tween a rock and hard spot. Action was re barreled by a now deceased,. but as far as I know, damn good mechanic.

Action/bbl are not stainless. I am stocking the gun, client wants it re blued (rust)..I usually have to re blue anyway, since I'm clumsy.

No response from Montana,that's why I asked here. thanks for the help..I'll just stumble through it

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):
Action/bbl are not stainless. I am stocking the gun, client wants it re blued (rust)..I usually have to re blue anyway, since I'm clumsy.

Personally, I would call bullshit and shenanigans on anyone that claimed that they can inlet a gun into a wood stock and not scratch the bluing.

I know that there is probably a logical reason. But just curious, why bother pulling the tube? Why not reblue the barrel and action together?

Try packing the chamber with ice cold paper towel.
Heat the receiver ring to 250 to 300 degrees f.
up to where it's painful to touch no more.

Work quickly to get the wrench on.
Hit that wrench quick and fast.

Just slight change in expansion ratios is all you need. The icy chamber stays just a touch behind the receiver ring in expansion and it only takes just a little difference.
Got it from Grisel about 30 years ago

quote:

Originally posted by speerchucker30x378:

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):
Action/bbl are not stainless. I am stocking the gun, client wants it re blued (rust)..I usually have to re blue anyway, since I'm clumsy.

Personally, I would call bullshit and shenanigans on anyone that claimed that they can inlet a gun into a wood stock and not scratch the bluing.

I know that there is probably a logical reason. But just curious, why bother pulling the tube? Why not reblue the barrel and action together?

Because there's almost always some "seepage" at the joint. In this case, I can see something like maybe "Anti seize" thru the scope base hole. This should make for a real nightmare when trying to rust blue..just know the damn stuff will crawl out the joint. May be JB Weld for all I know


Stuart...thanks for the tip.

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):

Because there's almost always some "seepage" at the joint. In this case, I can see something like maybe "Anti seize" thru the scope base hole. This should make for a real nightmare when trying to rust blue..just know the damn stuff will crawl out the joint. May be JB Weld for all I know

There is always a reason.
Some of these characters can't hit a size and compensate for loose threads with glue. As said above, melt the glue. I always put the barrel in the barrel vise with the action wrench on and then make a soft flame with my oxyacetylene torch and poke it into the chamber and heat it slowly and test the outside of the receiver with a wet finger. When they are just barely spitting hot the glue is usually soft.

When I was at CST old Gus Crites always said the old version of Locktite was ground glass and grease. He always used to grin and say: "it works really good but it's a one way trip!" That man had a morbid sense of humor. I've never had cause to test it on anything and probably never will. I have a very good imagination.

Not that you need anymore assurance but the threads on my left handed MRC are right handed.