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Let's say some hypothetical person wanted to remove an importer marking (not the serial #) on a pistol slide.

Would a surface grinder be used?

Surface grinders leave a great finish but I don't know if the heat would ruin the slide.

the import mark is one of those hideous Century Arms dot matrix type.
 
Posts: 128 | Location: East Central NC, USA | Registered: 26 May 2002Reply With Quote
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The serial # is on the frame, not the slide so I don't see how it could matter?

Can't the importer infoprmation be transfered to the frame as well to keep it legal?

No, its not too hot.


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Posts: 11142 | Location: Texas, USA | Registered: 22 September 2003Reply With Quote
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Swampfox

I have used a surface grinder for several years for certain applications when refinishing and restoring firearms.

If the slide or receiver is very thin it is near impossible to get an accurate flat surface and you are better off draw filing. A good example would be Remington 1100 or 870 receivers.

If the part is relatively thick and you use a flood or mist coolant and take your time, you will usually be able to surface grind the part flat and accurately. Use good quality grinding wheels, true it with a diamond each time the machine is turned on, feed only .0005 to .0002 per pass.

Even when that is accomplished you will still have to do some hand polishing to make it look factory.


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Posts: 1551 | Location: North Texas | Registered: 11 February 2001Reply With Quote
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quote:
Surface grinders leave a great finish but I don't know if the heat would ruin the slide.
Properly done a surface grinder will not create enough heat to draw any metals.....improperly done they can destroy things.


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Posts: 28849 | Location: western Nebraska | Registered: 27 May 2003Reply With Quote
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Surface grinders if used by someone with experience are a neat tool.

I don't have the experience with one, nor do I own one for that matter, so I block sand slides and frames by hand.

The problem with using a power tool when you are not familiar with it is that you will always take off too much metal and there is no way to put it back.

I recommend block sanding by hand.

-Spencer
 
Posts: 1319 | Registered: 11 July 2003Reply With Quote
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thanks for the info. The pistol slide in question is on a makarov (Bulgarian).

The left side carries the serial # (which is also on the frame); the right side is graced with Century's horrendous "billboard" import marking.

Not sure about the legal ramifications of removeing an importers mark. The BATFE requires it, so I'm pretty sure it would have to be moved, not eliminated.

Removing the "billboard" would make the old Makarov look pretty nice. They are cheap enough to justify tinkering with, but still made of quality materials. Neat, accurate little pistols.

Thanks again.
 
Posts: 128 | Location: East Central NC, USA | Registered: 26 May 2002Reply With Quote
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I think importers marks are only really required because of a liability issue.

Once you, the consumer, own it, I think you can do whatever you want.
Only markings that can't be touched are the serial number, and I think maybe the model.

-Spencer
 
Posts: 1319 | Registered: 11 July 2003Reply With Quote
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quote:
I think importers marks are only really required because of a liability issue.

Once you, the consumer, own it, I think you can do whatever you want.
Only markings that can't be touched are the serial number, and I think maybe the model



That's a question best answered, in writing, for the BATF. Usually you get someone that is pleasant to speak with. If you don't, say thank you very much and call back later.

Clamped in a vise or supported in another fashion you should be able to grind off the marks very easily. I would use flood coolant forget the mist just not enough volume to keep things cool across the board. Use a good wheel and of sufficient hardness. Anyone with a grinder should know what to use and have it on hand. Dress the wheel well and take small depths of cut of a few tenths (.0002-.0004) as stated above. Your cross over feed can be .030-.050 and you will get a good finish. Be certain to "spark out the final pass. That is to run the wheel, at the same depth setting across the surface 3 or 4 times to the point where you don't get any sparks.

I would, again, check with BATF about all of this before doing anything. IMHO.

John
 
Posts: 855 | Location: Belgrade, Montana | Registered: 06 October 2000Reply With Quote
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Definitely going to ask the BATFE. Can't afford an unscheduled all expense paid vacation to the grey bar motel.

We have some nice K.O. Lee surface grinders at the shop with magnetic chucks. I don't believe they are set up with a coolant flow at this time though. I've just started using them. May be an ideal application for them.

Could get one of the upperclassmen to assist me and then program the CNC mill to engrave something catchy in script there. How about "Front Towards Enemy"?
 
Posts: 128 | Location: East Central NC, USA | Registered: 26 May 2002Reply With Quote
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To remove lettering I would just use wet or dry and oil on a block and finish with hones...

You have to do that anyway after using a surface grinder...


Ray Atkinson
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rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com
 
Posts: 42209 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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