Hi!

Would it possible to set up a action between two centers and grind round by using a sliding grinder the moves from one end to the other and then turn the action a little bit and then grind and so on.

The goal should to have a nice round action with a fine surface, maybe finnish with a whetstone by hand.

What about the hardening, would it be damaged?

/Ulrik

take a look at Jack Belk's website. He goes by the name Hotader.

Or, better yet, Order a Tricks of the Trade book from Mark Stratton, who posts on this site.

ulsa,
It is done with a surface grinder. The action and the fixture is on a table and it moves towards the wheel. The fixture allows you to turn the action longitudinally one degree and make another cut. You end up with just some small areas to clean up.

here is a link to the site I referred to earlier.

http://community.webshots.com/album/17944759FTFDzctiRT

Am I reading this wrong or do you want to grind the bridges off your ZG47?

Terry

This sounds like a real bad idea to me. If you want a round top action, why not just use a low-cost commercial FN instead of butchering the desirable double square bridges on a rare and collectible ZG?

quote:

Am I reading this wrong or do you want to grind the bridges off your ZG47?

Oh no, couldn't think of a worser thing to do.
Instead I want a shiny and deep blueing on the action, as you know the ZG-47 can be very rough on the finnish.

My idea was that if you grind it this way it would end up straight with sharp edges.

/Ulrik

Hand sanding leaves much less room for error or taking off too much metal.

When dealing with power tools, there is always the tendency to take off more than you wanted to.

I am constantly reminded of this every time I use a Dremel tool.

-Spencer

quote:

Originally posted by ShopCartRacing:
Hand sanding leaves much less room for error or taking off too much metal.


-Spencer

I'd say be careful about hand "SANDING". Sanding is a very good way to round edges that should be sharp. As others have said, this is a candidate for proper polishing not surface grinding.

Let me rephrase.

I don't mean hand sanding like the same technique you would shine your shoes with.

I am talking about when you want a sharp edge, you either use a flat block or a block in the shape of what you want to sand.

You should never do any heavy polishing on a gun with just your hand as a backing. You need something stiff to maintain the shape.
The only time I have used my hands for polishing is on parts like a bolt shroud which is very bumpy and even then only with finer grit emory.

-Spencer

I understand Spencer. But, even with a stiff backer paper has a way of rounding edges.

If you have a long block that you can really press down onto the work surface, then the only time you round edged is if you slip and the block tilts.

This is not to say that surface grinding is bad, but I find that hand sanding or block sanding does just as good a job and in some respects can be superior when you are working with a thin piece such as polishing the sides of a 1911.

-Spencer