I recently did some gun trading at a gun dealer in Birmingham Alabama.The 1st rifle I traded for was my dream gun a Wthby Mrk v ultra lightweight in 270 Win. used 2002 model.I checked it out in the store as good as I could and thought it was fine,but when I got it home to clean it I saw rust just inside the rifle bore down in the lands.I pulled the bolt out and it was as black as pitch,ran a patch soaked with Break-Free down the barrel and out came pine straw!Looks like who ever had this gun before me hunted with and shot this gun but never cleaned it.I am not a gunsmith so I don`t own a bore scope to really check out the barrel.So what can I a layman do to get the rust out of the barrel and save this gun?I called the gunstore I got it at and they said it was my problem now no refunds.The second gun I traded for is a Wthby Mrk v stainless 30-378 mag ,fit and finish looked fine but when I got it home and tried to remove the muzzle break with the factory wrench so I look loo at the bore it would not move at all!When I called the gun store to state the rust problem with the 270 win. I asked them what they did to the 30-378 mag`s muzzle break,The salesman laughed and said they always used RED LOCTITE on all Wthby rifles they kept with muzzle breaks.How can I get the red loctite to break loose with out buggering up the threads on the barrel?So I can use the factory thread protector?

For the rust try J&B bore paste + elbow grease + lots of patches.

For the loctite I believe it loosens with heat - propane torch not OA. I'm sure the experts know for sure and hopefully they'll provide more complete info.

Won’t fix your immediate problem, but for the future I would invest in a pocket sized bore light and an Otis cleaning kit. You can view the bore with the light, and can slowly pull a brush through the bore to feel for rough spots, and then follow with a clean patch to see what comes out.

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I called the gunstore I got it at and they said it was my problem now no refunds

Any shop owner who came at me with that kind of attitue would never see another dime of mine. I would also spread the word to friends and club members.

I would not expect a refund but, I would expect a little help with cleaning the bore. A small shop has little to offer except customer service. This guy will not last if he keeps it up.

Try your normal bornze brush and a good solvent.

If that really does not work, it should though, then you can try a stainless steel brush.

No amount of patches will take out rust. You need a material that is tough, like bronze or steel, that will scrub the rust away, not polish it.

-Spencer

Acetone will usually go after red Loctite enough to break the parts free without much trouble.

Try some JB bore paste mixed with Kroil to get at the rust in the bore.

I didn’t know that “Jerry’s Kids†had opened a gun store????

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Originally posted by AMRA:
...The 1st rifle I traded for was my dream gun a Wthby Mrk v ultra lightweight in 270 Win. used 2002 model.I checked it out in the store as good as I could and thought it was fine,but when I got it home to clean it I saw rust just inside the rifle bore down in the lands.

Hey AMRA, The Wby U-Lt I have came with a Stainless barrel and though it could rust a bit, it would take a lot of exposure to the elements. Any chance you might just be seeing more Bullet Jacket that "appears to be" rust?

Slide a White patch within about 1.5" of the muzzle and shine a light in it. The white will help reflect the light from a different angle and what appears to be rust may look a bit different.

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...The salesman laughed and said they always used RED LOCTITE on all Wthby rifles they kept with muzzle breaks.How can I get the red loctite to break loose with out buggering up the threads on the barrel?So I can use the factory thread protector?

I do not know if this will work, but it would sure be worth a try. Locate a couple of drill bits that very closely match the hole size in the muzzle brake, the closer the better. Wrap the fluted end with Duct Tape.

Got to the Range and fire 3-4 shots through the rifle rather quickly. If the muzzle brake is hot after 3 stop there. Then slide the non-fluted portion of the drill bits in the Brake and see if it will loosen. If the Brake is warm-hot to the touch, it may be all you need.
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I used to do a good bit of Gun Trading in the Huntsville area and never felt like any of them were trying to take advantage of me. Of course time changes things and they may be different now. But if you live close enough to Huntsville to make a trip, you might want to consider doing business there.

This won't help you now, but might be useful in the future. I bought a Mag Lite flashlight and a fiber-optic attachment for it at my local Ace Hardware. The attachement snaps over the lens cap of the Mag Lite and is very bright. The fiber optic "whip" is about 4" long and flexes easily, so can quickly be used in checking out bores....don't even need to remove the bolt as this will illuminate around corners.

I always carry this with me to pawn shops, gun shows, etc. and it has saved me from buying into some big barrel projects.

Thank You to all who responded, I will find some of this J&B compound ya`ll have mentioned.Hot Core sad to say but it is for sure RUST! my first patch soaked with Break Free down the bore came out with PINE STRAW,and black gunk that look like wet ashes. I took the gun to my old football coach who`s retired now to look at the ultra lt. wt.He runs our local shooting range and is our resident grand poopah gun nut,
to make sure it was really rust,It is,Then I got my butt chewed out by coach for not checking the gun out better in the Birmingham store before I traded for it.
Spencer would the stanless steel brush you mentioned be safe in the rifle bore?I`ve never used one before,but I saw on in coach`s tool shack that said Turbo brush on it.Is this the type you are talking about?AMRA

If you are inexperienced with using a torch, a double layer of wet cloth just behind the brake is a good idea, OTW use a log lighter or a heat gun; they are foolproof. Pad the barrel well in the vise and any jaws used to grip the brake.

I would suggest brass wool if you can find it; if not a patient session with the bronze brush and Kroil, WD-40 or Liquid wrench (any rust-dissolving penetrating oil) will knock out the rust. Keep these AWAY from the wood, IOW use your bore guide. Finish with a patch and fine metal polish recommended for stainless steel.

Don't dismay too much until you put it on the bags; when you're done it may be the best shooter you have.

AMRA,

Stainless steel brushes can scratch some bores...but it doesn’t sound like you’ve got a primo bore that you need to be worried about too much!

My experience with removing rust, from anywhere, is that it is best to start with the least aggressive methods and materials and proceed up the chain if you have to.

Try the Kroil/JB Bore paste first...and if that doesn’t do the trick you can move on to other things. Wipe the mixture in with a loose patch and let it sit for awhile then go after it with a patch wrapped around a smaller bore brush to scrub the bore real well. If you can’t find Kroil, just use regular old ATF from the auto parts store.

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Originally posted by Scota4570:

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I called the gunstore I got it at and they said it was my problem now no refunds

Any shop owner who came at me with that kind of attitue would never see another dime of mine. I would also spread the word to friends and club members.

Damn right!!

agreed. just tell the truth and the damage will be done.

Plug the chamber. With the rifle standing in a corner fill the barrel with automotive brake fluid (excelant rust cutter) Kroil or ATF. Leave standing for a day or 2, topping off the barrel as necessary.
Dump out the liquid and run a bronze brush through, from the breach, a couple dozen times than patch dry.
Heat will loosen the locktite, but I have to ask why you want to remove it? Sure it will be louder, but it won't kick the snot out of you either, with the brake on.

Correct: heat will loosen red loctite, but you need to get the metal up to about 425 degrees. Once it's this hot, with what can you turn the thing off without burning the hotpad and possibly leaving carbon residue on the muzzle brake? Once you do get it off, I am thinking it could be kept on with a single turn of teflon plumbing tape. You could heat the brake with a bernz-o-matic, but do it slowly.

And what is the name of the gun dealer where you got such crappy service? You may save somebody else in your area alot of grief by telling us all right here.

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Originally posted by AMRA:
...I will find some of this J&B compound ya`ll have mentioned. Hot Core sad to say but it is for sure RUST! my first patch soaked with Break Free down the bore came out with PINE STRAW,and black gunk that look like wet ashes.

The JB Compound is really excellent stuff for scrubbing Bores.

Just a darn shame about the "rust". Is your barrel stainless?

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I took the gun to my old football coach who`s retired now to look at the ultra lt. wt.He runs our local shooting range and is our resident grand poopah gun nut, to make sure it was really rust,It is, Then I got my butt chewed out by coach for not checking the gun out better in the Birmingham store before I traded for it.

If you make enough gun trades for a "Used Firearm", it eventually happens. Just think of it as a learning experience and don't dwell on it.

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... would the stanless steel brush you mentioned be safe in the rifle bore?

I have a revolver that still has very faint scratches in the Bore from a buddy trying to help me by scrubbing my barrel for me with a Stainless Bristle Brush about 20 years ago. I could see him working his over and never figured he would touch mine without first saying something to me.

So, I would recommend you go with "Rick's" suggestion of slowly working your way toward the worst case scrubbing.

I had another buddy bring a 338-06 to me once with the Chamber rusted(light surface rust) because he failed to "lube" the inside of the Chamber/Bore after he had cleaned it. I used a 44cal Stainless Bristle Brush in a short section of cleaning rod. Wrapped a Patch around the Brush and filled it with JB Compound, then turned it slowly in the Chamber with a drill.

Scrubbed the Bore with a Brass Bristle Brush(Patch + JB Compound) and gave it a few hundred strokes. That cleaned it right up.

I would only use a Stainless Bristle Brush in my rifled bores as a last resort.

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I`ve never used one before,but I saw on in coach`s tool shack that said Turbo brush on it. Is this the type you are talking about?...

The Turbo Brushes are absolutely excellent for cleaning shotguns and revolver "cylinders" where there are no Lands and Grooves. But, when you think about how they "flex" when they enter a rifled tube, you will realize the regular Bronze Bristle Brush is still the best option there.

The "coils" of the Turbo Brush just can't get as close to the juncture of the Lands and Grooves as regular Brass Bristles can.
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By the way, don't let the rust concern you to the point of distraction. Once you clean the rifle well and shoot it, it might do just fine. But it will never shoot well if you are convinced that it won't shoot well.

Before you jump right in a stick a torch to your firearm, try soaking the area in either acetone or nitromethane. I know for a fact that Nitro will dissolve super glue, so I would imagine that it would at least loosen Locite up enough to unscrew the parts without breaking anything.

There is a product called "Evapo-rust" which I have used to remove rust from knives. It works very well and will remove bluing so you have to be careful. One of the uses listed by the maker is to remove rust from gun barrels. You plug the bore and fill it with the solution. The stuff is harmless except to rust. Go online and find a dealer near you. The stuff works very well. Combine it with other things and I think you'll salvage the bore. It has to be really clean though or the stuff won't work so yuo'll need to use plenty of J-B or solvent first.

I always be caredful with dealers in Alabama. I've had some try to skin me there more than once.
I'm from Alabama originally.

The SS brush is just like a bronze brush, only SS bristles.

Kleen-Bore unfortunately only makes them in 30 and 35 caliber for your bore. This I am thinking would be too tight a fit.

A few passes through your bore is not going to hurt it, just don't make it a regular habit.

-Spencer