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fuming maple
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Anyone have any experience with the process? I swabbed amonia straight on maple & it does stain it a bit but what about useing the fuming process? I had the 10% stuff not the recomended 26% varity.



Doug Humbarger
NRA Life member
Tonkin Gulf Yacht Club 72'73.
Yankee Station

Try to look unimportant. Your enemy might be low on ammo.
 
Posts: 8351 | Location: Jennings Louisiana, Arkansas by way of Alabama by way of South Carloina by way of County Antrim Irland by way of Lanarkshire Scotland. | Registered: 02 November 2001Reply With Quote
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I know for furniture, like doing oak for Arts and Crafts, or Stickley furniture, they use the powerful stuff. Saw an article where they made a visqueen tent over the oak and placed a large open jar in with it.

The strong stuff is nothing to be screwed around with- ventilation, etc., is very important.

http://www.rockler.com/blog/index.cfm?commentID=210

http://www.codesmiths.com/shed/workshop/techniques/oakfuming/

http://stason.org/TULARC/crafts/woodworking-1/35-Ammoni...ng-Introduction.html

http://www.google.com/custom?q=ammonia+fuming+wood&sa=w...A1d2a7495eeed915b%3B
 
Posts: 3314 | Location: NYC | Registered: 18 April 2005Reply With Quote
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TC thanks a bunch for those great links! I will be doing the process this weekend.



Doug Humbarger
NRA Life member
Tonkin Gulf Yacht Club 72'73.
Yankee Station

Try to look unimportant. Your enemy might be low on ammo.
 
Posts: 8351 | Location: Jennings Louisiana, Arkansas by way of Alabama by way of South Carloina by way of County Antrim Irland by way of Lanarkshire Scotland. | Registered: 02 November 2001Reply With Quote
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Ammonia fuming works on the tannin in the wood. Maple has very little if any tannin. So, coat the maple with tea first Big Grin

rich
 
Posts: 6522 | Location: NY, NY | Registered: 28 November 2005Reply With Quote
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richj I was wondering about that. Thanks for the tip!



Doug Humbarger
NRA Life member
Tonkin Gulf Yacht Club 72'73.
Yankee Station

Try to look unimportant. Your enemy might be low on ammo.
 
Posts: 8351 | Location: Jennings Louisiana, Arkansas by way of Alabama by way of South Carloina by way of County Antrim Irland by way of Lanarkshire Scotland. | Registered: 02 November 2001Reply With Quote
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didn't the Pennsylvania Rifle smiths use some sort of nitric acid to do their maple stocks?

I remember reading (where/when/???) that it discolored their hands/fingers when they used it.
 
Posts: 3314 | Location: NYC | Registered: 18 April 2005Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by tin can:
didn't the Pennsylvania Rifle smiths use some sort of nitric acid to do their maple stocks?

I remember reading (where/when/???) that it discolored their hands/fingers when they used it.


Tin Can, off subject, but just had to do it. Do you recognize any of the sailors you served with on the DD 788's crew list here:

http://www.mustangone.com/cgi-bin/crewlisting.pl?classid=DD-710&hulln=788
 
Posts: 2864 | Registered: 23 August 2003Reply With Quote
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It's tin can because I'm more of a plinker than any other kind of shooter, and the 788 refers to the Remington 788 rifle.

I apologize for being a disappointment as to the origin of my handle, and, in no way mean it to imply I was in the military, I was not.

I can see how one could deduce that the handle refers to destroyer service, and even a specific destroyer.

However, thank you for, if only momentarily, including me in such honorable company. I appreciate to no end those who have served and do serve in our armed forces.
 
Posts: 3314 | Location: NYC | Registered: 18 April 2005Reply With Quote
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emailed a website http://www.gunstockwood.com/ and got this reply:

quote:
Acid is used to darken maple and other base woods, while a base such as lye
is used to darken acidic woods such as cherry. Applying heat activates the acid,
The wood should not be scorched! (However, there is a wood scorching method of
Japanese origin which uses scorching to add an artificial figure to wood). Once
the wood is darkened, it must be rubbed down until the figure is revealed( this
removes some of the chemically darkened surface over the hardest grain while leaving
it in the softer more absorbent areas). Using acid is not easy and is not without
risk both to the user and to the end result, as it reacts differently on different
pieces of wood and even on different aresa of the same piece of wood; so you don't
know what your going to end up with. If you use acid, use nitric acid and stay
away from chromic acid. Chromic acid will turn green over time, maybe not for along
time, but eventually it will.
Maple does not stain well using pigmented stains. These are your over the counter
oil base stains you can buy at any hardware store. These stains leave maple blotchy
and ugly.
High quality dyes work very well on maple(analine), but have a tendency to fade
over time or when exposed to direct sunlight. I have used acid, but prefer the
dyes. I usually dye a shade or two darker than I "think" I want the piece
to be, and once the piece is rubbed out and finished, it is usually right where
I want it. Dyes give you much better control of color etc.
 
Posts: 3314 | Location: NYC | Registered: 18 April 2005Reply With Quote
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Well the stock is fumed. It took two days for the amonia ordor to fade away from the wood!
After I refinish the stock I will post some pics. This method sure does darken the wood.



Doug Humbarger
NRA Life member
Tonkin Gulf Yacht Club 72'73.
Yankee Station

Try to look unimportant. Your enemy might be low on ammo.
 
Posts: 8351 | Location: Jennings Louisiana, Arkansas by way of Alabama by way of South Carloina by way of County Antrim Irland by way of Lanarkshire Scotland. | Registered: 02 November 2001Reply With Quote
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Maple: This brings back memories... Hal Hartley used to "suigi" his maple stocks with a blow torch. I tried this (once) I applied the heat and "KERBLAST" The damn thing split in two (lengthwise) The chemical process(s) sounds much safer! Although...I'd be a little concerned with the acid...this stuff may come back to raise hell with the metal???
 
Posts: 2221 | Location: Tacoma, WA | Registered: 31 October 2003Reply With Quote
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quote:
I'd be a little concerned with the acid...this stuff may come back to raise hell with the metal???


Excellent point Duane. I will be checking for problems.



Doug Humbarger
NRA Life member
Tonkin Gulf Yacht Club 72'73.
Yankee Station

Try to look unimportant. Your enemy might be low on ammo.
 
Posts: 8351 | Location: Jennings Louisiana, Arkansas by way of Alabama by way of South Carloina by way of County Antrim Irland by way of Lanarkshire Scotland. | Registered: 02 November 2001Reply With Quote
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Guys, I'm just curious (and naive), why wouldn't you just use stain to achieve the desired color tones???
 
Posts: 3563 | Location: GA, USA | Registered: 02 August 2004Reply With Quote
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quote:
why wouldn't you just use stain to achieve the desired color tones???


quote:
Maple does not stain well using pigmented stains. These are your over the counter
oil base stains you can buy at any hardware store. These stains leave maple blotchy
and ugly.
 
Posts: 3314 | Location: NYC | Registered: 18 April 2005Reply With Quote
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I have stained lots of maple using alcohol based stains. These are supposed to be non grain raising stains but aren't really so you need to raise the grain before staining. Birchwood Casey makes some water based stains that also penetrate well. The oil based stains that you get at Lowes, Home Depot, etc. are a waste of time as stated previously. If you can find some alcohol based walnut and mahogany stains you'll have what is needed for staining your maple stocks. Also as stated before, make the stock a little darker than you want it to finish at because you'll lose some of the color as you finish the stock.


"Peace is that brief glorious moment in history when everybody stands around reloading".
 
Posts: 838 | Location: Randleman, NC | Registered: 07 April 2005Reply With Quote
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