one of us
| TC thanks a bunch for those great links! I will be doing the process this weekend. |
| | | Posts: 8352 | Location: Jennings Louisiana, Arkansas by way of Alabama by way of South Carloina by way of County Antrim Irland by way of Lanarkshire Scotland. | Registered: 02 November 2001 | 
IP
|
|
One of Us
| Ammonia fuming works on the tannin in the wood. Maple has very little if any tannin. So, coat the maple with tea first  rich |
| | |
one of us
| richj I was wondering about that. Thanks for the tip! |
| | | Posts: 8352 | Location: Jennings Louisiana, Arkansas by way of Alabama by way of South Carloina by way of County Antrim Irland by way of Lanarkshire Scotland. | Registered: 02 November 2001 |
IP
|
|
One of Us
| didn't the Pennsylvania Rifle smiths use some sort of nitric acid to do their maple stocks?
I remember reading (where/when/???) that it discolored their hands/fingers when they used it. |
| | |
One of Us
| quote: Originally posted by tin can:
didn't the Pennsylvania Rifle smiths use some sort of nitric acid to do their maple stocks?
I remember reading (where/when/???) that it discolored their hands/fingers when they used it.
Tin Can, off subject, but just had to do it. Do you recognize any of the sailors you served with on the DD 788's crew list here: http://www.mustangone.com/cgi-bin/crewlisting.pl?classid=DD-710&hulln=788 |
| | |
One of Us
| It's tin can because I'm more of a plinker than any other kind of shooter, and the 788 refers to the Remington 788 rifle.
I apologize for being a disappointment as to the origin of my handle, and, in no way mean it to imply I was in the military, I was not.
I can see how one could deduce that the handle refers to destroyer service, and even a specific destroyer.
However, thank you for, if only momentarily, including me in such honorable company. I appreciate to no end those who have served and do serve in our armed forces. |
| | |
One of Us
| emailed a website http://www.gunstockwood.com/ and got this reply: quote: Acid is used to darken maple and other base woods, while a base such as lye
is used to darken acidic woods such as cherry. Applying heat activates the acid,
The wood should not be scorched! (However, there is a wood scorching method of
Japanese origin which uses scorching to add an artificial figure to wood). Once
the wood is darkened, it must be rubbed down until the figure is revealed( this
removes some of the chemically darkened surface over the hardest grain while leaving
it in the softer more absorbent areas). Using acid is not easy and is not without
risk both to the user and to the end result, as it reacts differently on different
pieces of wood and even on different aresa of the same piece of wood; so you don't
know what your going to end up with. If you use acid, use nitric acid and stay
away from chromic acid. Chromic acid will turn green over time, maybe not for along
time, but eventually it will.
Maple does not stain well using pigmented stains. These are your over the counter
oil base stains you can buy at any hardware store. These stains leave maple blotchy
and ugly.
High quality dyes work very well on maple(analine), but have a tendency to fade
over time or when exposed to direct sunlight. I have used acid, but prefer the
dyes. I usually dye a shade or two darker than I "think" I want the piece
to be, and once the piece is rubbed out and finished, it is usually right where
I want it. Dyes give you much better control of color etc.
|
| | |
one of us
| Well the stock is fumed. It took two days for the amonia ordor to fade away from the wood!
After I refinish the stock I will post some pics. This method sure does darken the wood. |
| | | Posts: 8352 | Location: Jennings Louisiana, Arkansas by way of Alabama by way of South Carloina by way of County Antrim Irland by way of Lanarkshire Scotland. | Registered: 02 November 2001 |
IP
|
|
One of Us
| Maple: This brings back memories... Hal Hartley used to "suigi" his maple stocks with a blow torch. I tried this (once) I applied the heat and "KERBLAST" The damn thing split in two (lengthwise) The chemical process(s) sounds much safer! Although...I'd be a little concerned with the acid...this stuff may come back to raise hell with the metal??? |
| | | Posts: 2221 | Location: Tacoma, WA | Registered: 31 October 2003 |
IP
|
|
one of us
| quote: I'd be a little concerned with the acid...this stuff may come back to raise hell with the metal???
Excellent point Duane. I will be checking for problems. |
| | | Posts: 8352 | Location: Jennings Louisiana, Arkansas by way of Alabama by way of South Carloina by way of County Antrim Irland by way of Lanarkshire Scotland. | Registered: 02 November 2001 |
IP
|
|
one of us
| Guys, I'm just curious (and naive), why wouldn't you just use stain to achieve the desired color tones??? |
| | |
One of Us
| quote: why wouldn't you just use stain to achieve the desired color tones???
quote: Maple does not stain well using pigmented stains. These are your over the counter
oil base stains you can buy at any hardware store. These stains leave maple blotchy
and ugly.
|
| | |
One of Us
| I have stained lots of maple using alcohol based stains. These are supposed to be non grain raising stains but aren't really so you need to raise the grain before staining. Birchwood Casey makes some water based stains that also penetrate well. The oil based stains that you get at Lowes, Home Depot, etc. are a waste of time as stated previously. If you can find some alcohol based walnut and mahogany stains you'll have what is needed for staining your maple stocks. Also as stated before, make the stock a little darker than you want it to finish at because you'll lose some of the color as you finish the stock.
"Peace is that brief glorious moment in history when everybody stands around reloading".
|
| | | Posts: 845 | Location: Randleman, NC | Registered: 07 April 2005 |
IP
|
|
