I am trying my first rust bluing project - on an old 22 Rem 512.

I would like some help on how to prepare the steel & polish it to remove all minor pits.

Hand rubbing - I have tried 1000 grade, 600 grade & 320 grade wet & dry but the progress was too slow. Finally I used 0000 steel wool and this seems to get a better polish but the stains are still there.

I read somewhere not to use a buffing wheel as it could result in uneven surface as it is impossible to control uniform polishing.

Should I put it on a lathe and just polish with steel wool until it is done?

You will probably never polish it out with steel wool. Polish with emery paper or draw file to get out all the pits and scratches. Finish up with 400 grit to remove the scratches left from the 320 previous polish. When rust blued, the finish will be close to the 320.

Well, it kinda depends on how deep the pits are, and you sure won't remove pits with steel wool. Depending on how bad the pitting is, I usually start with 180 grit and work up from there. Stones, I believe, work better for pit removal. I usually stop at 320 or sometimes 400, some guys like to go finer. Remember, if the pit is .005" deep, you gotta take that amount to get to the bottom. I keep the stones lubed/wet with a mix of ATF and mineral spirits, same goes for the paper. I use a solid backing for the paper whenever possible.

Dear Nakihunter:

I have had the best luck with either a 320 grit final finish or a 400 grit final finish using wet/dry sandpaper and some cheap spray on oil. I have experimented with sandblasted through 1000 grit finishes and as Jim Kobe said 320-400 grit seems about right.

320 will give you a darker finish with Mark Lee Bluing, and 400 grit will give you a dark grey color. I have no experience with other bluing solutions, like Pilkington.

If you have done any commercial painting, you will know that surface preparation is everything. It is absolutely essential that you get all of the old bluing out/off before you rust blue.

I've used standard naval jelly for years, while using multiple applications. You will know that you are done, when there is no more black marks and/or whitish/blue phosphate marks on the steel.

After you are sure the old bluing is gone, then heat it up in really hot water, and see if anything else comes out of the open pores. Chances are you will hit it again with naval jelly or some other bluing remover.

Next, you must get all the oil, fingerprints, etc. off after you sand it down.

I use standard non-chlorinated brake cleaner and clean paper towels. Seems to work.

Lastly, when you are rust bluing, use really good quality dishwashing gloves. Mine have lasted through five Auto 5 re-bluings in the past two months. Those gloves are worth it.

If you have any more questions, just PM me.

Sincerely,

Chris Bemis

Thank you all for the help! Much appreciated.

So I have been a real novice in trying 600, 800 and 1000 grit papers! ooops!

Nakilhunt,

Defintiely do not go higher than 400 grit. A lot of work and you won't like the results more. One key to great finishing is use backing material to meet the contour of your metsl. I have used everything from pieces of hose to sponges and much more to equal the contour. Definitely avoid "dishing" your work, it will show. Enjoy the work and you will have a finished product you can be proud of.

Quote by Nakihunter: "Yes, rust blue of course! Since we cannot get Pilkingtons here, I have made up a solution of Nitric & Sulphuric acids with de-greased steel wool."

Make sure you add some ethyl alcohol to that. A half ounce of 80 proof clear spirits should do for every 4 oz of solution. It helps the solution spread and stick properly to the metal and gives a more even finish.

Steel wool is usually added to HCL to spin off ferric chloride salt. Not sure you are going to get the benefit with Nitric and Sulphuric. I think the old Neider formula was Nitric, HCL, iron nails,(dissolve nails) then add water and alcohol. A better combo is Nitric,ferric chloride, cupric sulphate, ethanol and water. I've used this and get a dark blue/black in two passes. You need some kind of metallic salt. Cupric sulphate is the easiest to obtain. But again, you can dissolve steel wool in HCL to get some ferric chloride.

Thanks guys. a great help as usual. Yes it was HCl and not Sulphuric Acid - I checked my notes and the source of the acid as well. The ethanol is a new issue I had never come across before. A very kind member has also offered to snail mail me some Pilkington! I'll post the work in progress when i start the project.

quote:

Originally posted by Bobster:
Quote by Nakihunter: "Yes, rust blue of course! Since we cannot get Pilkingtons here, I have made up a solution of Nitric & Sulphuric acids with de-greased steel wool."

Make sure you add some ethyl alcohol to that. A half ounce of 80 proof clear spirits should do for every 4 oz of solution. It helps the solution spread and stick properly to the metal and gives a more even finish.

Steel wool is usually added to HCL to spin off ferric chloride salt. Not sure you are going to get the benefit with Nitric and Sulphuric. I think the old Neider formula was Nitric, HCL, iron nails,(dissolve nails) then add water and alcohol. A better combo is Nitric,ferric chloride, cupric sulphate, ethanol and water. I've used this and get a dark blue/black in two passes. You need some kind of metallic salt. Cupric sulphate is the easiest to obtain. But again, you can dissolve steel wool in HCL to get some ferric chloride.

Ah, a chemistry major in our midst.

Would you mind giving the proportions for the solution that you have suggested.

Thank you.

Here you go:

Here is the formula from "Firearm Bluing and Browning",Angier, R., with grain conversions so you can use a powder scale:

Browne of the Swiss Federal Armory


Book Ingredients

Copper(Cupric) Sulphate - 35 grains
Solution Ferric Chloride 29% - 227 grains
Nitric Acid Density 1.42 - 132 grains
Ethyl Alcohol 90% - 46 grains
Distilled Water to make 1/4 pint

Procedure

1. Make a 29% Ferric Chloride solution by disolving 290 grains of Ferric Chloride cake in 710 grains of distilled water. Use a polyethylene bottle.

2. Pour 227 grains of this solution into another 6 oz. poly bottle into which you have added 35 grains of cupric sulfate crystals.

3. Add 46 grains of 90% ethyl alcohol( I used 180 proof Everclear)

4. Add enough 10% commercial Nitric Acid solution to make 4 fluid oz.

5. Swirl bottle in a hot water bath till copper sulphate dissolves. Solution will be a grass green color. Cap, label, date and store in a dark, cool place. Book says it will keep many years.

Don't worry if you are a little off on measurements because there is a lot of room for error in these formulas.

I bought the chemicals from "The Science Company", by internet purchase. They ship next day. Cost was around $35.
That's enough chemicals to blue about 100 guns! Here's what you need to order:

Cupric Sulphate
10% Nitric Acid
Ferric Chloride

Distilled water - grocery store
Everclear - liquor store

Note: Book states you should apply the first coat, let dry for 2 hrs then a second coat before the initial sweating. This activates the rusting action.

Good luck!

Bob