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Re: Stuck screw-in choke
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I will make the crevat that a older (pre-steel shot) lower quality (cheap) gun MIGHT sustaine some opening of the choke with the use of steel loads.




So are you saying that you can safely (not danger to you, but damage to the gun) fire steel shot through an older full choked M870? Not exactly a cheaply made gun. Ask Remington what they think.

Would you do it through an old Win M12? How about a Parker? "Cheap" guns? Hardly...

Stick to choke tubes marked appropriately for steel.
 
Posts: 2629 | Registered: 21 May 2002Reply With Quote
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Contact Remington, and get the truth behind this oft repeated URBAN LEGAND. The largest causes of stuck chokes are: lack of thread lube, carbon fouling from using the wrong lube, cross threading, overtightening, and rust. They need to be removed once in a while to have the threads cleaned and re-lubed.

Shotguns (and rifles) have to be constructed and warrentied to handle ANY factory ammo of the proper designation IE: a 2-3/4 12ga has to be able to safely handle ANY factory 2-3/4 12ga round (slug, buck, steel etc). Factory ports won't cause the barrel end to be blown off if you use steel shot, slugs can be run through a full choke without distroying the gun, etc.

I will make the crevat that a older (pre-steel shot) lower quality (cheap) gun MIGHT sustaine some opening of the choke with the use of steel loads.
 
Posts: 2124 | Location: Whittemore, MI, USA | Registered: 07 March 2002Reply With Quote
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As mete said above, some chokes are for steel shot, some aren't.



You will usually be able to find some writing on them that says "Lead Shot Only", or "Steel and Lead" (may even say something like "Full Steel, Modified Lead").



In general, you can safely fire steel through an "unmarked" tube if it is one of the more open constrictions.



Once you get down to Full, Super Full, turkey tubes, etc, you start running into problems. If they don't specifically say OK for steel, I'd shoot lead only through them.



If you have an older, unmarked Full tube, and fire steel through it, you are asking for problems, and in only a few rounds. Stick to the more open tubes, or Steel-marked tighter chokes if you need to sheet the hard stuff.
 
Posts: 2629 | Registered: 21 May 2002Reply With Quote
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CB the pattern will suck, but I believe the gun will survive. It might get peened open slightly after a few boxes, but it will survive.
As far as the M-12Win goes, I've used them, and destroying one wouldn't be a crime. IMO
Parkers, well how many do you see being used for anything, let alone waterfowl?

Should you stick to a approperat amount of choke (fixed or otherwise) for shooting steel? Of course. Steel patterns 2-3 "chokes" tighter than lead, and over-choking with any shot material will trash the pattern.
 
Posts: 2124 | Location: Whittemore, MI, USA | Registered: 07 March 2002Reply With Quote
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I was completely unaware that firing steel shot through a barrel with a choke tube (I have an 870 and an 11-87) would ruin the tube/screw-in choke and or the barrel? Any idea how many rounds this will take? Are there special tubes for steel shot?
 
Posts: 3 | Registered: 19 November 2004Reply With Quote
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Hate to say, but the last one I had in the shop I had to set it up in the lathe and bore it out. Ruind the choke tube but saved the barrel.

Jim
 
Posts: 5506 | Location: Minnesota | Registered: 10 July 2002Reply With Quote
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Do not use steel shot in a gun or choke that is not designed for steel shot.Steel shot is much harder than lead and it doesn't squeeze down or deform like lead. It will then damage the barrel and choke.Barrels and chokes for steel shot are made of stronger steel. If you have any doubts read your owners manual or contact the manufacturer to find out if your gun was designed for steel.
 
Posts: 7636 | Registered: 10 October 2002Reply With Quote
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