Several years ago I had a rifle made up in 340 Wby. Really nice walnut stock, ivory fore end, ivory diamond insert on pistol grip and (I couldn't stop myself) a hollowed out bolt handle with an ivory button insert. The guy that did the work apprenticed with Dale Goens and it came out very, very nice.

My challenge is that the ivory button doesn't stay well in the bolt handle. Tried superglue a few times and it doesn't stay well. Use rising instead? Suggestions?

I also have some warthog ivory and can use that if I need a button a little larger in diameter.

I would try an epoxy - something like araldite or JB Weld. Make sure it is very clean - use something like acetone to clean everything. On the Ivory cut some ridges, or drill some holes so you get a mechanical lock with the Ivory as well as just the bonding.

I used ivory in wood inlays, but not into metal. If you cut grooves into the inside of the bolt hole and the edge of the ivory with dental burs you create something for the glue to hold. Use superglue gel and leave a little space for air to get out when it is compressed into the hole. The above post has most info that you need to use.

Les

I don't know if it is true but I had an older german gunsmith tell me that hollow bolt handles when they are plugged needed to be vented. He claims the trapped air would pop the plug when it expands. He always drilled a small hole like a #60 into the airspace where it couldn't be seen when the bolt was down.

quote:

Originally posted by max(hm2):
I don't know if it is true but I had an older german gunsmith tell me that hollow bolt handles when they are plugged needed to be vented. He claims the trapped air would pop the plug when it expands. He always drilled a small hole like a #60 into the airspace where it couldn't be seen when the bolt was down.

Or drill and put a ball detent into the other end of the handle so that it holds the handle down when closed. I have a Brno No2 22 rimfire that has had this done.

Another consideration is that Ivory tends to dry and shrink over time.

Loctite Black Max.

Drill a tiny hole in the bolt handle, rough up the metal AND the Ivory and cut a tiny groove on the bottom portion in the insert...the groove and hole allow for "breathing" and pressure equalization during heat/cold cycles, use an EPOXY adhesive and expect drying out of the Ivory. You might also try bath tub silicone caulking as it will flex rather than crack or crack the Ivory.

I've used silicone caulking to bed a couple rifle barrels just to "find out"...guaranteed to be "glued-in for life" but it's still working after 30 odd years...hope I never have to rebarrel those two.


Good Hunting

A lot of good ideas, so thank you. I'm not a gunsmith or a machinist, so will turn this over to a gunsmith to do. It makes sense that some relief of the trapped air is needed. I don't want to drill the ivory, so a small hole in the underside of the bolt handle sounds right.

It's nice to be able to find qualified advisors on this forum. It is much appreciated.

rough up the Ivory and the inside of the bolt hole..use JB weld, the excess and the air will ooz out and can be wiped off and polished when it hardens..no need for a hole, if I was going to use a hole then Id drill and tap it underneath with a scope hole screw in glass. I do the same sometimes on barrel band front sights as opposed to the ball and spring that have a habit of disappearing on my shop floor!