ok my Cz 416 rigby that I bought used came with a broken stock and the added lead rattles and clunks--stock was broken at the little crossover pc between the trigger and mag box and upon further inspection the left side of forearm was cracked at the very end of the barrel channel(about 4 inches long)--

so for the crossover I took an 8 penny finish nail and bent into a U shape--I then drilled two holes on both sides of the trigger cutout--holes were about 1" long and drilled from the front of the gun towards the butt--I then mixed up some steel bed and laid some of it in and pushed the nail into the holes and then covered the whole mess with epoxy--not sure a nail is what you guys would use, but it worked out great, as there's not a lot of room there---

at the forearm I drilled 3 holes about 1 1/4 long from the top down into the bottom of the forerm--mixed up some steel bed and took some 2 penny nails and coated the nails with epoxy and pushed them in the holes--

then in the barrel channel made a groove that started in the bottom and curved it up to the top and bent another 8 penny nail to fit the contour---then more steel bed and laid the nail in and covered with more steel bed--

looks like it may have worked--only time will tell--

now for the question--whoever bedded the gun didn't free float the barrel--so should I free float or shoot it and see what happens and then make the decision??--

the barrel F block recoil lug thingy isn't used but the recess was filled with glass bed and formed around the barrel lug part to some degree--I'm not sure how effective it is in its current state--I need to try and figure that out, but should that be free floated or should I add some glass to get it to fit tight if I determine it's useless---if I add glass around the barrel lug then does one free float the barrel just forward or do you float the barrel between the two lugs also??

next will be injecting some foam into the butt to try and get the clunk out of the lead--

you might think I'm nuts--but since the stock wasn't in great shape I figure I'm out nothing if the work I'm doing doesn't work--so why not practice a little----chris

I have no answer to Your question.

But I fail to see the use of a free floated barrel in a syntetic stock

If You get tired CZ-USA have wood replacement stocks for $290-450 depending on field or fancy grade- and they are of the American Safari style.

All the Best

Jens

I just drilled two 1/4" holes into the side of the stock butt and filled it with foam--no more rattling as of now, but of course the foam needs to cure to call it a success--what I could see was like an lead pellet laden epoxy block that was moving around in there--if it works then I will just have the small rattling in the forearm to deal with, if I decide to--chris

well I filled the forearm with foam--got lucky with my two holes as they were dead on exactly where I needed them--

but a note of caution--I didn't protect the fiberglass stock from the foam on the butt and it mugged up the finish --what happened was I filled the holes with foam and let it expand out and then removed the excess when it got pretty much cured in a hour--I should've used some tape(which I did on the forearm)--I was there wiping off the foam as it expanded out of the hole, but that got old so I decided after it slowed down I'd let it do its thing--shouldn't have--to me this is no biggie as the stock is not pristine, but now I know for future projects---chris