Is there a way to mark a rifle barrel that is already blued and installed without damaging the rest of the finish?

Got one I bought second hand that is not identified on the barrel, and I understand that is a requirement in some locations.

Engraved; do not try to stamp it with individual stamps.
Caliber markings is only required if you are going into some other countries. Not here.
Many German rifles do not have the calibers on them. The owner knows what it is. And sometimes they just have the bore diameter on them.

They can also be ethced without any damage and darn attractive

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):
They can also be ethced without any damage and darn attractive

What equipment does it require!

We use a laser printer, but that requires the barrel off.

engraver, pantograph style.

This is over Cerikote.





on Stainless

IMG-Electromark has all the gear to mark steel. Their made to order stencils are excellent. The etcher can be a diy for about 10 bucks. But the good stencils and correct etchant are important.

I use the pantograph style, a New Hermes. Size of the engraving can be adjusted. Give me a shout, where in Iowa are you?

quote:

Originally posted by Saeed:

quote:

Originally posted by Duane Wiebe (CG&R):
They can also be ethced without any damage and darn attractive

What equipment does it require!

We use a laser printer, but that requires the barrel off.

I have a Cronite Engraving Machine....Bob Swartey, Terry WAllace. used one. They were made for the printing industry before compurters. The thing is tha you can even copy a photo, reduce it to almost nothing, then etch a fine likeness in steel stretch letters out, make them taller or shorter, works great to copy coat of arms.

Making parallel lines to almost any lines per inch
means ability to lay out steel checkering (slow, but precise)

All in all, a very handy piece of equipment and..no, you don't have to do any disassembly

Seems like engraving on any piece of carbon steel would invite oxidation. "Blued" usually means carbon steel, although stainless can be 'blued' with the proper chemical. Not many have that capability to 'blue' stainless.

I use a pin marker to mark import guns. The letters are a series of dots from a hardened pin. The pneumatically powered marker is controlled by a laptop with a program. If you’ve seen markings on an import gun, you’ve seen pin marks. It isn’t engraving or machined letters but it is fast and meets atf requirements. You might want to ask an importer if you know one. The marks are about .010” deep. I use cold blue to blend them in.

If you oil the bare steel, it won't rust. Bluing does not stop rust anyway.
Or cold blue it.
Just leave the letters bright and oil them.
Import type pin markings on a custom rifle? NO.
I have a New Hermes with 7 sets of fonts. Don't need no fancy computer lettering.

ya' everyone keeps their guns well oiled. That's why its not unusual to find a bit of rust on about anything brought into the shop. Cold blue is all but worthless. Best I might suggest is to fill the fresh engraving with that Forster/Bonanza stuff that looks like gold or silver (its really bronze or aluminum)
. And, I don't know how well that stuff lasts or works.

For the folks using the Hermès engraver, are you using the powered head and if so what tool or bit are you using? I have used the Hermès with a diamond point without the power head in the past. Raises a bad burr around the engraving which is easy to remove on an unfinished barrel, but not the way to go on a blued surface. Looking to upgrade my setup and technique. Thanks!

I use the New Hermes, scratch engrave with a diamond tip. In several years no issues with raising any burrs. I prefer to engrave after bluing, just wipe it down with gun oil same as dpcd. I prefer cursive over block lettering. Kind of like blued steel and wood versus black paint and tupperware.

I do not use a diamond tip; I use carbide; it does not raise burrs; it cuts the steel. It leaves little chips like a little milling machine,, which is what it is. I engrave both before, and after, depending on how I feel that day. Both ways work. My machine has an electric motor.
I have cursive fonts but usually use block. Lots of ways to skin this cat. Not that I have ever skinned a cat.

quote:

Not that I have ever skinned a cat

They skin like any other critter

Now I am really confused because there are 4 ways to skin critters.
1. Belly first
2. Back first.
3. End only glove method as for fur bearers.
4. Cut off quarters with skin on.
5. Leave skin on and bake whole.
6. Leave skin on and scald and scrape off hair.
7. Leave skin on and just take the horns (Poacher method) Wait, cats don't have horns; forget this one.
But the big question is, how do they taste?

Like chicken

Lazer engrave it. They can dial in the strength of the lazer to protect the bluing.

DPCD can you provide some more info on the carbide bit you use? Where did you purchase it? Thanks

Laser engraving machines cost slightly more than my 100 year old Hermes. So I won't be getting one.
The carbide bits, came with my machine. I send them in to be resharpened; They are flat on the cutting edge. Only for the power ones; not for the drag ones.

How do you control the depth of cut o a round (barrel) surface? I have a motor with mine and a few cutters but never tried it

It has a depth setting and on large areas like barrel shanks, and relatively small letters and numbers, no variation in depth is noticeable. Not for 1/4 inch letters.

quote:

Originally posted by Jim Kobe:
How do you control the depth of cut o a round (barrel) surface? I have a motor with mine and a few cutters but never tried it

I don't know the details but the man who does our lazer engraving has it down pat. I will ask him next time I see him.
I know his machine was VERY EXPENSIVE. I am strictly guessing that the laser beam starts measuring the desired depth
at the instant the beam touches the work.

Has anyone ever tried acid etching? I have used a very simple die cut printer to make a template that you stick on the metal and then brush on a acid etching paste. Makes a very clean and easy to read marking. Can be any size or font you wish.

dpcd,

Who do you send your bits to for sharpening and what tip size and angle do you have them ground to? I prefer relatively small lettering and have been using a .010" 90 degree bit which works okay. I have a .005" 48 degree bit that I am afraid to use as I think it might break.

Use it; it won't break. The depth question was for the New Hermes type machines. I send the cutters back to a place I will have to look up. In New York I think. But I have a local tool grinding shop that I am going to get to do them. It's not rocket surgery.
A 90 degree tip is way too obtuse for a fine detail.
I won't be using acid or lasers; no need to re-invent something I already can do.

www.bitsbits.com for engraving cutters and diamond drag tools. I made a screw adjustable depth stop for my New Hermes machine. Some jobs I use a cutter, some jobs I use the diamond. Depends upon the application as to what I use. My general 'rule of thumb' is engrave before bluing or coating CM
, diamond 'scratch' S.S. after coating. I've had some S.S. barrels Melonite/Black Nitride treated in which case I engrave before sending for treatment.

Antares out of Pennsylvania is a company I use for re-sharpening bits for my engraver. They sell new cutters and re-sharpen.