I know a few of the folks here cold rust blue there guns, and I'd like to see if we could get a at least an outline of how to do it. I know the basics of polish, rust, boil and card, but would like some details of what solution to rust the metal, how you build something that can fit a barreled action in boiling water, and what you prefer to card with. Also pitfalls along the way.

Here is a thread from a ways back:

http://www.serveroptions.com/ubb/Forum5/HTML/000862.html

Try that.

Paul, you have to do a good job degreasing the metalwork first. I use 1,1,1 Trichloroethane but it is dangerous stuff. I am switching to a degreaser sold by Half Moon barrels (Kalispell Mt) that stays in a water bath. After you degrease the metal the acid is wiped on the metal using swabs that are not too wet. You want an even coverage. The metal is left in a box of some type that has the correct humidity. I use an electronic humidifier (steal the one your wife uses when the kids are sick). It has it's own electronic controls. I also put in a small heater so the metalwork does not make the moisture condense on it. That will cause pitting on your metal and a disaster. check it the first time every half hour or so. I let it form a good rust layer and then boil in a tank. I formerly used black iron tanks from Brownells. Jim Dubell (Delta Gunshop) has mine now and I have Maurice Ottmar's old set up. It is an electric set up. But no matter what you have to be careful of your water. If it has a lot of impurities in it, you may need to resort to distilled water. that is not always the case. You will have to try it and see.

I card with a soft stainless wire wheel from Brownells turning at around 700 rpms. If you are rust bluing any gold inlays use steel wool that has been degreased and do it under running water. That will stop the gold from "smearing".

you will need to repeat this a number of times. I usually do it at least six and sometimes 10. Some metals are hard to get started (Ruger #1). When you are done put the metalwork in a bath of water with baking soda in it to neutralize any acids. BTW, I use Gun Goddess from Jim Bair, Half Moon Barrels. I like the color it imparts.

After neutralizing the metalwork, and rinsing, use a water dispersing oil such as WD-40 and coat all the surfaces. Admire and enjoy. There is nothing that looks as good as a good rust blue.

Chic Worthing

Chic is right on with water quality. Several years ago I moved the shop about 10 miles which caused me to use a different water utility. Started having problems with dull silver gray specs on the finished bluing. Traced it to algae treatment chemicals the utility was dumping in the reservoir. Went to distilled water and never looked back. The old shop water source was from a glacier fed river that did not require any additives. Makes me wonder just what all the algae treatment chemicals do to one's innards when drinking the stuff???

For Paul, I have a good "cookbook" description of rust bluing, let me know if you need a copy. My email will be down a few days as I change email accounts, but I still have access to this forum.

Chic,

I was kinda hoping to pull you out of the woodwork with this post, thanks it was exactly what I was looking for. What do you use to spin the wire wheel @ 700 rpm? I figure now that I'll be putting the whelen in a piece of wood, I'll have to do something about the not so nice cold blue finish it now wears.

John,

I'd appreciate that cookbook. I also went looking for the 500 Jeffrey reamer print you sent me, and when I went to where I know I put it, I found the quickload workup, but the print was no where to be seen. I'll drop you a line and see if you can fax it.

Speaking of water, or water utility changed, and there was a marked change, for the worse of water quality.

Thanks,

Paul

Is Gun Goddess a rust blue formula/mixture?

The brush you refer to is the .0025 Wire Brush, right? How do you manage to spin it so slowly? My slowest speed is 1725 rpm... Do you think I can get by with a light hand?

I'm trying to gather the ingredients for a batch of Neidner blue- still need some Nitric acid... I've used Plinktons until now, but I've heard better results can be had with other solutions...

Paul, I will send a copy of the 500J Reamer drawing.

Note new email address below.

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Currently in Exile on the Beautiful Olympic Peninsula of Washington State.

My Warden sometimes allows me to respond to email. NEW Address is rifles@earthlink.net

Paul, you sneak, lol. You knew how much I love this metal treatment.

I have two ways to turn it that speed. One is on my drill press and the other using a 1750 rpm washing machine motor with some pulleys that slow it down.

When I got Maurice's bluing system I also got his water still for making my own distilled water. He told me he got it from the local pharmacy for next to nothing. He lived on the outskirts of Coulee City WA and the water was very alkaline. Our water here is fairly good but distilled is better. I have known people to go up in the spring and get snow melt in the mountains and take it home in plastic 55 gallon drums for later use.

And yes the Gun Goddess is a rust bluing formula.

Don't overlook hooking up a standard light dimmer switch to slow your RPM's down either. Don't know if you could get it down to 700 rpm as many motors have a start capacitor that kicks in when it gets slow, but it is a cheap way and works just fine as long as you don't get too crazy slowing down. If you use an old washing machine motor and an arbor adapter you can probably get by pretty good.

Paul:

Check out John Kay's site at

http://www.winchester-restorations.com/blue.html

Rick

I turn my carding wheel with my variable speed drill. Mount the drill in the vise and turn the speed way down. Crude but it works.

I will also add that Chic is right about Trichlorethyelne(sp?) being dangerous. It is incredibly flammable. Not more than 6 weeks ago I caught the bench, mygloves, and shirt on fire with that stuff. Scared the hell out of me. I never did figure out why either. For degreasing I am now using Dicroclean 909 from Brownells in a tank. It works well and no fire danger.

After reading a few gunsmith books on cold rust blueing, I forgot to ask, how do you recomend one protects the bore, and other areas one doesn't want rusted?

Paul

Some plug the bores with hardwood dowels, changing them each cycle. They do make handy handles while handling the barrel. This was the most used method by gunsmiths of yesteryear. There is a slight risk of the plugs leaking and a risk of one of the plugs blowning out during boiling and burning you.

However a lot of people are coating the bore and chamber with tough varnish or polyurethene. Then stripping it when done.

Paul, I dont use anything anymore. I used to use tapered hardwood plugs and still use them on shotguns but not on rifles. I do clean the bore well each time with a patch.

Be sure to use a good water displacing oil (WD40, that is what the WD stands for) after you are finished.

Chic,
I pretty well follow you directions with a couple of add ons...I have a tank of iced water and the metal goes from the box into the ice water, then I cord....I also wire wheel ( soft cord ) the white polished metal before I degrease, boil it, then apply the first coat of blue. My least favorite pastime is slow rust bluing, also some of my most frustrating moments...

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Ray Atkinson

ray@atkinsonhunting.com
atkinsonhunting.com

Ray,

What does the ice water bath do other than cool the metal in a hurry? Help the blue stick better? You've got my curiosity up.

Do you guys have a link to Jim Bair's Half Moon Barrels?

I think I might like to try some of the Gun Goddess solution. I was going to whip up a small batch of Neidner's formula but finding Nitric Acid in small quantities is proving tough and Expensive (500ml for $90 plus hazardous shipping)...

Ray, are you saying out of the humidity box and into ice water or out of the boiling tank and into ice water?

Any tips, hints, tricks are helpful- I'm trying to refine my technique and hopefully get a better result.

sorry, thats out of the H-box, card, boiling water then into the ice, boil again, sop with blue and back into the H-box...it drives the blue in deeper, and shortens the process, as well as making a nicer, more even blue...

I read this many years ago in an article by one of the old gunsmiths and it seems to work very well for me....It also works very well with hot blueing and makes the hot blue more durable.

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Ray Atkinson

ray@atkinsonhunting.com
atkinsonhunting.com