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Guidance on mounting Talley Small Ring Bases
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Need some guidance on mounting Talley bases on a small ring Mauser. The outside edges of the front and back bases seamlessly fit on the receiver just fine but the inside diameter of the bases aren't completely flush to the receiver, does a small gap between the inside of the bases and receiver present any problems or issues? Ideally everything should be flush but I'm uncertain how to proceed. Anyone have experience with this and a solution please?
 
Posts: 521 | Registered: 07 June 2013Reply With Quote
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Bed the bases to the action with black bedding compound.

Yes, it does matter, IMO. You want the surface contact area to help keep things solid and limit the stress on the screws.

Jeremy
 
Posts: 1483 | Location: Indiana | Registered: 28 January 2011Reply With Quote
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Don't forget to put release agent on the screws.
I also swab the screw holes with release agent.

Dave
 
Posts: 2086 | Location: Seattle Washington, USA | Registered: 19 January 2004Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by farbedo:
Bed the bases to the action with black bedding compound.

Yes, it does matter, IMO. You want the surface contact area to help keep things solid and limit the stress on the screws.

Jeremy

What black bedding compound are you recommending?
 
Posts: 521 | Registered: 07 June 2013Reply With Quote
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I glue them on, screws and all; that make sure it won't come loose, and they are easy to remove.
However, you also can lap the bases in with files and or, sand paper to match the receiver.
 
Posts: 17383 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by dpcd:
I glue them on.


What glue do you use Tom? This is for the Carl Gustavs 1911 receiver you worked on for me a while back.
 
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Acraglas gel. Use the black dye. Glue screws and all. If and when you ever need to remove them, the screws will probably come out and if they don't, a little heat from a propane torch will turn the adhesive to powder. Acraglas gel is epoxy with nylon in it.
 
Posts: 17383 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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If you are seeing a gap before tightening the bases down try tightening them. They may spring out enough to draw it up.
 
Posts: 3835 | Location: SC,USA | Registered: 07 March 2002Reply With Quote
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Rear base on a Mauser is pretty thick.
Personally I file them to fit.
 
Posts: 17383 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Bobster:
If you are seeing a gap before tightening the bases down try tightening them. They may spring out enough to draw it up.


That would be my first option, assuming the gap is very small. If gap is very small then work on basis that is the design of the base. If the base was the other way then they would "rock" on their centre.
 
Posts: 7046 | Location: Sydney Australia | Registered: 14 September 2015Reply With Quote
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The problem is more than likley the actions grind not the bases..I would check that and if its out of spec a tad have the action surface ground and mount the bases..clean the holes and use locktite or glass if you feel better with glass..be sure and clean the screw theads as well. the bases can be removed with heat. I use a kitchen butane torch, they have a tiny flame and just heat the screw head until you see some moisture rise out of the screws and scope base holes. I use Torx screws on scope mounting..


Ray Atkinson
Atkinson Hunting Adventures
10 Ward Lane,
Filer, Idaho, 83328
208-731-4120

rayatkinsonhunting@gmail.com
 
Posts: 42225 | Location: Twin Falls, Idaho | Registered: 04 June 2000Reply With Quote
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Acraglas gel. Use the black dye


This

One never has a problem with Ruger bases coming loose
 
Posts: 19727 | Location: wis | Registered: 21 April 2001Reply With Quote
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Yep, acraglass works. I have also used marinetex dyed black (really dark grey), and JB weld dyed black.

Jeremy
 
Posts: 1483 | Location: Indiana | Registered: 28 January 2011Reply With Quote
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Question.
After using Acraglass on the bases, can they later be removed and all traces of compound removed with no finish damage? Would it be by playing a torch lightly on the remnant of compound.
Thank you
 
Posts: 378 | Location: Atlanta.GA | Registered: 07 December 2006Reply With Quote
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yes.
 
Posts: 17383 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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They are made so that there is a small gap in the center. That is part of the design and it is supposed to be there.


Nathaniel Myers
Myers Arms LLC
nathaniel@myersarms.com
www.myersarms.com
Follow us on Instagram and YouTube

I buy Mauser actions, parts, micrometers, tools, calipers, etc. Specifically looking for pre-WWII Mauser tools.
 
Posts: 1516 | Location: Ohio | Registered: 06 June 2010Reply With Quote
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That is part of the design and it is supposed to be there.


As a student of all the game am interested in the reasoning behind the gap design, what is its function, what does it do?
 
Posts: 521 | Registered: 07 June 2013Reply With Quote
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I'll answer for him; he slept in today; you either want your scope bases to fit perfectly all the way across, (ideally) or to sit on the outside edges, forming a V block. What you never want to have happen is for the base to sit on the center, middle, unsupported at the outer edges and free to move, which it will be.
Understand this; rifles especially Mausers, have been made for 140 years now in many different factories; how can you make a scope base to fit them all? Perfectly? They do a good job. The receiver radii are not all exactly the same. Note; I have seen a Kar98k with the rear bridge still showing the forging die rough marks. They used it anyway, and stamped it with the WaffenAmpt mark to show it was ok. Very rare though; the Germans didn't cut on quality.
That is why I custom fit them, often.
 
Posts: 17383 | Location: USA | Registered: 02 August 2009Reply With Quote
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I'll answer for him


Excellent, thank you Tom.
 
Posts: 521 | Registered: 07 June 2013Reply With Quote
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