There is an old Gewehr 98 in the family that I've been wondering about. My question is this: How can I determine what a maximum safe load/pressure would be in this rifle?

It is, indeed, old; but also little-used. It's been either in a closet or safe for about the last 80 years. If memory serves me, the date of manufacture is 1916, or so. To my knowledge, it has never been fired on this side of the Pond, in all that time.

So, can I use the Nosler book and proceed as usual, or load it down even lower?

Thanks, folks.

RSY

Very suspicious.
Likely dangerous.
Better just let me take it off your hands.
$50?

Bwana this is a good rifle perhaps $51 , really think it should be a collector item if it's OK , never butcher to made sporter starter loads should be OK

Daniel

RSY,

That weapon was designed for the 8mm military round. In 1905 the "groove diameter" of the barrel was changed from .318 to .323 diameter bullet. Before you do anything, make sure that your barrel is designed for the .323 bullet.

Provided that the weapon is in good shape, you should be able to use the data found in today's reputable loading manuals for the 8X57mm Mauser. If you are in doubt as to it's fitness for use, take it to your gunsmith for a "hands on" exam...

Good luck,

Malm

Malm:

It's World War I-vintage, so I'm almost dead-sure it's .323". Weren't they done making .318"s by that time?

RSY,

I only offer that as a cautionary suggestion because as we know, sh*t happens. To answer your question, yes they were through making the .318 barrel by then, but I have seen two post 1905 receivers that had .318 barrels screwed to them. How, when and by whom these two were assembled, is anyones guess. To be safe, never assume anything to be what you think it is.

Have fun,

Malm

[ 09-23-2003, 00:39: Message edited by: G.Malmborg ]

Anybody else???

Has anybody ever seen a M-98 fail? or just the barrel? I read a gunsmithing book on Mausers awhile back and I belive it said the M-98 could withstand 200kpsi, but the brass would have long since failed, so anything safe for the brass should be safe in the gun. I think you should be able to run your gun to 50-60kpsi safely if it is in good condition. I've seen bolt setback, but nothing beyond that. My experience is rather limited though, so don't listen to anything I say, just random thoughts here. Look at some of Clarks pics of destroyed case heads on a Turk .243. How much pressure would it take to deform and split the brass like that? And the gun is still useable.
??????????????

Consider the fact that if it hasn't been 'sporterized' or had the stock sanded (and how close to matching it is), your gun is probably in the $300 - 500+ range in value; then consider buying a $109 Yugo K-98 to play around with max handloads.

Realistically, German military rounds were stout, Turkish even more so, so anything published in a recent vintage lawsuit-proof reloading manual is probably less pressure. American factory ammo is really downloaded. The only thing I would do is check the bore, as Malm suggests -- although it's near certain to be a .323 with a 1916 date -- and have the headspace checked, esp if bolt is non-matching. Does it have any cartouches on the stock? What maker is written on the front ring (probably Oberndorf)?

Good shooting,
Todd

RSY, sounds like you have a nice rifle. Post some pics if possible.

As for the caliber, there should be a "7.92" stamped on the 12:00 position of the barrel torque shoulder right where it screws into the receiver.

As to the strength, there's no reason to reduce loads as long as the rifle is in good shape and is properly headspaced. You should be able to load comparable to any modern cartridge.

I hope you are not considering sporterizing it. There are plenty of cheap mausers available for that. I've got an heirloom 1905 Oberndorf that was a vet souvenier. I've shot it and its a great conversation piece, but I wouldn't even consider refinishing the stock. Every nick and scratch has a story to tell.

Unfortunately, I don't have the rifle in my direct possession. That's why I didn't post more exact information initially.

Also, don't worry, no plans to sporterize. I wouldn't even do that to a run-of-the-mill 48. If I want a sporter, that's what Winchester Model 70's are for. I love history too much to alter something like this.

Another neat thing, this rifle is also accompanied by it's original issue bayonet, in scabbard. As I remember, though, the leather ain't in that great of shape.

I'll post pics later, if possible.

RSY

Regards the .318 and .323 thing: I have several Merkels made well into the 20's as sporters commonly used the .318 bore, since that is what the populace, foresters, poachers, the hunters had bullets and molds and dies for. Kind of like we still use 270 win, even though 270 WSM is around.

Note that one of my overunder rifles was made in 1938 with the .318 bore.

never assume anything, and you used the right expression; "dead-sure" although I really think that one hell of a lot of 323 bullets have gone down .318 bores during the last eighty-ninety years. But most of these were opened up in the chamber neck areas. all hearsay of course. Because I only have .318 I swage or double swage 32 or 323 bullets down to size first.

Good luck with your mouser.