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How do you keep a scope mount from coming loose?
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Posts: 1845 | Registered: 01 November 2009Reply With Quote
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Pakistani gunsmiting technique? Or Indian. They do what gets them the results they want...
 
Posts: 16534 | Location: Between my computer and the head... | Registered: 03 March 2008Reply With Quote
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I bet it doesn't come loose. That's a welder's solution to loctite!
 
Posts: 203 | Registered: 09 September 2006Reply With Quote
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If it works it is his forever. Wow!


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Posts: 4895 | Location: Bryan, Texas | Registered: 12 January 2005Reply With Quote
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well at least he got it strait first! Clint
 
Posts: 390 | Location: out side lansing mi | Registered: 28 December 2007Reply With Quote
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I've seen an '03 with rear scope base welded on, but nothing quite like that.


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Posts: 2947 | Location: Corrales, NM, USA | Registered: 07 February 2001Reply With Quote
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If your worrying about screws coming loose, a frined of mine who use to own a gun store told me to use finger nail polish. Don't know if this is the best method.
 
Posts: 533 | Location: S.E. Oregon | Registered: 27 January 2009Reply With Quote
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Actually, fingernail polish can be used (I have) to keep screw in chokes from coming loose in competitive shotguns. The ones where you seldom or never remove, not hunters with multi-applications. Suggested to me by one of the best barrel men in the business. To remove, just apply a little heat and clean with fingernail polish remover.


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Posts: 420 | Location: Troy, Michigan | Registered: 21 December 2004Reply With Quote
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Looks like it has been welded on the front ring, doubt they heat treated after welding. The subject of heat treating Mausers is always interesting. Any comments on this?


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Posts: 390 | Location: Juneau, Alaska | Registered: 11 January 2006Reply With Quote
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The pan heads on those screws almost look like they are self tapping sheet metal screws. Prove you can tap a hard action if you soften it firs with some welding.



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Posts: 4267 | Location: TN USA | Registered: 17 March 2002Reply With Quote
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So...another gun ruined by a moron..happens a lot!
 
Posts: 2221 | Location: Tacoma, WA | Registered: 31 October 2003Reply With Quote
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lol !


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Posts: 3326 | Location: Permian Basin | Registered: 16 December 2006Reply With Quote
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That was a Swedish Mauser - now a bubba Mauser.

I saw a 98 Mauser at a gunshow with a Redfield one piece base stick welded on top of the action.
 
Posts: 13978 | Location: http://www.tarawaontheweb.org/tarawa2.jpg | Registered: 03 December 2008Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Chisana:
Looks like it has been welded on the front ring, doubt they heat treated after welding. The subject of heat treating Mausers is always interesting. Any comments on this?


In reality probably not hot long enough to worry about. But the action is ruined. May as well mold in the welds and french in the bolt release.


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Posts: 2534 | Location: National City CA | Registered: 15 December 2008Reply With Quote
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The owner was not worried about heat treating when he was standing over it with a stinger in his hand. A little Bondo and flat black for the custom look.
 
Posts: 1301 | Location: N.J | Registered: 16 October 2004Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by homebrewer:
Pakistani gunsmiting technique? Or Indian. They do what gets them the results they want...


-nah, a farmer; that looks to be the ever-reliable Roll Eyes E6013.
 
Posts: 3314 | Location: NYC | Registered: 18 April 2005Reply With Quote
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Appreciation is in the eye of the customer. Go ahead and laugh at this but I have worked with (not for) a "gunsmith" that would have found this acceptable. He went on to open a shop in Southern Iowa after retiring from the Army; he is in his sixth year of business and scraping by. He actually once welded vertical homemade steel foregrip to an AR barrel when the slip ring (D ring) spring broke. I have kept my distance to avoid getting any of the "ick" on me.
 
Posts: 222 | Location: Central Iowa | Registered: 16 May 2009Reply With Quote
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