I'm having trouble with an L61R (.300 Win) ejecting spent cases. It seems that they are being thrown too high and hitting the bottom of the scope, then falling back in the action. Have never had this problem on two dozen other Sakos. The only difference I can see is that this ejector blade protrudes very slightly beyond the bolt face when the bolt is withdrawn fully to the rear, whereas on my other Sakos the ejectors are flush with the bolt face. Would it solve my problem to remove the ejector and grind .02" or so off of it to make it flush with the bolt face? Or is there some other trick? Thanks in advance to all you AR experts!

quote:

Originally posted by Stonecreek:
I'm having trouble with an L61R (.300 Win) ejecting spent cases. It seems that they are being thrown too high and hitting the bottom of the scope, then falling back in the action. Have never had this problem on two dozen other Sakos. The only difference I can see is that this ejector blade protrudes very slightly beyond the bolt face when the bolt is withdrawn fully to the rear, whereas on my other Sakos the ejectors are flush with the bolt face. Would it solve my problem to remove the ejector and grind .02" or so off of it to make it flush with the bolt face? Or is there some other trick? Thanks in advance to all you AR experts!

Don't shorten it.

This sometimes happens when installing Sako extractors on Remington 700's. It's easily corrected if you watch what is happening. You can adjust the departure angle by removing material on the face of the ejector so that only the very top edge is in contact with the brass. A more drastic adjustment involves changing the grip angle of the extractors hook on the brass to a lower position.

quote:

It's easily corrected if you watch what is happening. You can adjust the departure angle by removing material on the face of the ejector so that only the very top edge is in contact with the brass.

Thanks, Wes.

As I understand it, you would keep the ejector full length, but taper the face so that only the top edge of the ejector strikes the brass. Is this correct?

I suppose it would hurt nothing to trade out the extractor to see if a different extractor would make a difference? I have a number of L61R's that I could trade with, so all it would cost me would be the hassle (and bruised thumbs) of removing and replacing those tiny little parts.

Speaking of trading out parts, I'm sure it's just dumb luck, but on a couple of ocassions I've swapped triggers on two Sakos that didn't want to adjust to the desired pull. After the trade, inexplicably, both triggers adjusted lighter and crisper without any tendancy to fail to catch the cocking piece on closing the bolt. Go figure.

quote:

Originally posted by Stonecreek:
Thanks, Wes.

As I understand it, you would keep the ejector full length, but taper the face so that only the top edge of the ejector strikes the brass. Is this correct?

Who's Wes?

Think of the ejector as your extended arm. If you wanted to push the back end of a drum downward and more to the right where would you push? Same principle.

quote:

Think of the ejector as your extended arm. If you wanted to push the back end of a drum downward and more to the right where would you push? Same principle.

Excuse me, make that West(pac):

So, the face of the ejector should be slanted very slightly so that the left-most and upper-most portions strike the head of the case first. Correct?

quote:

Originally posted by Stonecreek:

quote:

Think of the ejector as your extended arm. If you wanted to push the back end of a drum downward and more to the right where would you push? Same principle.

Excuse me, make that West(pac):

So, the face of the ejector should be slanted very slightly so that the left-most and upper-most portions strike the head of the case first. Correct?

You got it!

Using that principle, you can fine tune a 1911's ejector to dump it's brass at your feet. Well, that and changing the spring rate. Good luck!