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Thinking about this for my Savage M12 VLP in 204 Ruger in order to reduce muzzle rise when firing. I only use the gun for shooting Prairie Dogs off a bench with bipod and rear bag. I would like to see bullet impact better on PD's so I'm wondering if this will help. Another thought was to add weight to my bipod...has anyone ever done this? If you were to add weight to the forend how would you do it? Thanks! | ||
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Interesting post.I think weight distribution is very important on a rifle. I think most of the weight should be around the action or in front of it. I think rifles that have their weight evenly distributed throughout cause a violent muzzle rise. I could be wrong but this is how I feel. | |||
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I would rout a channel under the barrel and then fill it with either lead shot or lead wire. Adjust the depth/length and amount of lead 'til it's where you want it and then Acraglass it in. | |||
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I was thinking of doing just that Craig. I am wondering how much weight would be effective to kill muzzle jump. | |||
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LT, Interested in knowing if accuracy or point of impact changes after the modifications. Thanks Carl Exercise makes you look good naked, so does bourbon.....You decide | |||
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Another point would be how much weight can be effectively added (depending on the dimensions of the forend). For a point of reference, a 5/16 x 12" piece of lead wire will weigh roughly 4.5 ozs. | |||
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You're probably wearing hearing protection anyway, how about a muzzle brake??? That would do it for sure. Shoot straight, shoot often. Matt | |||
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I find it hard to believe that the 204 Ruger requires much weight to tame the recoil for follow through. A muzzle brake on a 204 Ruger would be casting pearls.... I have a couple of 204 Rugers and haven't noticed fighting recoil for follow through. Add some weight to the forend and enjoy. Prayer, planning, preperation, perseverence, proper procedure, and positive attitude, positively prevents poor performance. | |||
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As a professional stock maker, I find it best to do things outside the stock first. Take an amount of lead in a plastic sandwich bag. Rubber band it to the stock. You may use surgical tubing too. Increase the weight until you arrive at your comfort level of movement. Anything heavier than 8oz is going to involve putting lead in the buttstock also. The heavier the mass to move the less recoil is generated. Dennis Earl Smith Professional Member ACGG Benefactor Life NRA Life NAHC | |||
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Thanks fellas. Dennis, I am wondering if I can even add enough weight to the forend to make any difference....might not be worth the trouble? | |||
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I have been thinking about your question all night. I do not know just how much weight you will have to use. Only you can find that out. What are you using for a forend rest? Are you shooting off hand? My thoughts go to a response from the gun to a fulcrum point which causes the gun to rotate up. There are so many different factors you will have to do the scientific experiment and eliminate the variables one by one to find what works best. The weight up forward is just one of the things I would investigate. Another is the resting point of the forend rest. Sorry, there is no easy solution on muzzle jump. Sometimes I am the reason the gun goes upward...gun weld to shoulder and position behind the trigger. I really do not know without getting behind the gun myself. Which right now is not allowed as I am recovering from heart surgery. Dennis Earl Smith Professional Member ACGG Benefactor Life NRA Life NAHC | |||
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I am using a bipod and rear sandbags. Hope you recover quickly! | |||
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Look to see if bi-pod has "bounce" in it. Springs can give tension jump if influenced properly. Test...remove bi-pod and shoot from double bag set up. If gun still jumps, start putting lead weight bound to the forend to see how much is needed to tame it. If less than 2 oz you should be able to proceed w/o fear. Dennis Earl Smith Professional Member ACGG Benefactor Life NRA Life NAHC | |||
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