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Rem 700 triggersmith
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Does anyone know of a good, currently open, triggersmith for Rem 700 triggers? I can adjust the trigger with the screws, but something seems wrong with it inside.


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Posts: 3490 | Location: Colorado Springs, CO | Registered: 04 April 2003Reply With Quote
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Try Garland Gailbreth at Triple G Gunsmithing. I believe he is in Stephenville,Texas.
Here is his number: 254-965-6464


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Posts: 2973 | Location: South Texas | Registered: 15 January 2008Reply With Quote
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Thanks!


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Posts: 3490 | Location: Colorado Springs, CO | Registered: 04 April 2003Reply With Quote
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I have done a lot of work on 700 triggers. I can make them better, but it will cost you about the same as a very good, after market trigger. I tell my customers to save for a Jewell and not look back......Tom


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Posts: 654 | Location: Denver, Iowa | Registered: 10 June 2009Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Tapper2:
I have done a lot of work on 700 triggers. I can make them better, but it will cost you about the same as a very good, after market trigger. I tell my customers to save for a Jewell and not look back......Tom


Best advice so far
tu2


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Posts: 2534 | Location: National City CA | Registered: 15 December 2008Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Tapper2:
I have done a lot of work on 700 triggers. I can make them better, but it will cost you about the same as a very good, after market trigger. I tell my customers to save for a Jewell and not look back......Tom


To those who know what they are doing, the Remington 700 trigger can easily be made to perform head to head with ANY aftermarket Rem 700 hunting class trigger in the 2.5 lb plus range. The Jewell, while pretty good, is considerably more than what a guy should have to pay for a decent rework of the factory trigger.


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Posts: 3171 | Location: SLC, Utah | Registered: 23 February 2007Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Westpac:
[]

To those who know what they are doing, the Remington 700 trigger can easily be made to perform head to head with ANY aftermarket Rem 700 hunting class trigger in the 2.5 lb plus range. The Jewell, while pretty good, is considerably more than what a guy should have to pay for a decent rework of the factory trigger.


I agree that the Jewell is expensive for a hunting rifle, but there are others that are very good and cost less, Jard and Rifle basix are some. It sounds like the triger in question has internal problems that will run the cost up. Two hours or so working on a trigger will cost about the same as a Jard.....Tom


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Posts: 654 | Location: Denver, Iowa | Registered: 10 June 2009Reply With Quote
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quote:
Originally posted by Tapper2:
quote:
Originally posted by Westpac:
[]

To those who know what they are doing, the Remington 700 trigger can easily be made to perform head to head with ANY aftermarket Rem 700 hunting class trigger in the 2.5 lb plus range. The Jewell, while pretty good, is considerably more than what a guy should have to pay for a decent rework of the factory trigger.


I agree that the Jewell is expensive for a hunting rifle, but there are others that are very good and cost less, Jard and Rifle basix are some. It sounds like the triger in question has internal problems that will run the cost up. Two hours or so working on a trigger will cost about the same as a Jard.....Tom


Two hours????? What could possibly take so long. 45 minutes tops.


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Posts: 3171 | Location: SLC, Utah | Registered: 23 February 2007Reply With Quote
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If you have one of the new Remington triggers with the adjustment screw in the trigger shoe it will be a hard road to a good trigger. I think this design was Remington's lawyers answer to a problem with people reworking the older models into good triggers. I'd forget this one and see if I can find one of the older Remington triggers without the screw in the shoe and rework that one. That way you can get a decent trigger and a good price to boot. Your gunsmith might have one that he's swaped out for a Jewel or something.


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Posts: 837 | Location: Randleman, NC | Registered: 07 April 2005Reply With Quote
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i have adjusted two of the new ones,the screw in the trigger guard will get you nowhere,maybe 3.5 # all the way out,scrap off all the sealent on the bottom front screw and work with it,i got these two down to 2# safely,these two didn't have any creep and overtravel was fine,but next one may be a different story???
 
Posts: 339 | Location: tx | Registered: 07 February 2004Reply With Quote
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i have to agree 100% with westpac. while i'm about as far away from being an expert on triggers, i have done my share, and it's a rare instance when a remmy trigger needs replacing.
 
Posts: 13462 | Location: faribault mn | Registered: 16 November 2004Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by butchloc:
i have to agree 100% with westpac. while i'm about as far away from being an expert on triggers, i have done my share, and it's a rare instance when a remmy trigger needs replacing.


I agree with both Butch and Westpac. I have done alot of Rem triggers, probably not as many as they have, probably around a 75. The new Rem trigger doesn't seem to be as well finished as the old ones. I too, am not an expert on triggers, but I'm not sold on the new Rem. I haven't played with enough of them yet to form a solid opinion. So far, I'm not liking what I am seeing. Just my thoughts.......Tom


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Posts: 654 | Location: Denver, Iowa | Registered: 10 June 2009Reply With Quote
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The Air Force sent me through the old Rem armorers school many years ago. I've reworked hundreds of these triggers as far as using the three screws for setting it up. This one refuses to be adjusted despite intense cleaning, soaking, and the appropriate lubing. Guess I will just replace it.


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Posts: 3490 | Location: Colorado Springs, CO | Registered: 04 April 2003Reply With Quote
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Originally posted by Westpac:
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Two hours????? What could possibly take so long. 45 minutes tops.


As everyone knows 'All twenty minute jobs take two hours'. If the problem is internal it can become a real pain.....Tom


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Posts: 654 | Location: Denver, Iowa | Registered: 10 June 2009Reply With Quote
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Im not going to speak for Westpac. But if you spend that much time on something and not watch the clock. You can put your self in a position that you have hours on a job that you can't charge a customer for. Essentially wasted time that you can never recoup.

I have other projects and customers that need my attention. I could not afford to waste that kind of time. If the trigger was buggered beyond repair or adjustment, replace it. If it's in an unsafe adjustment then back out all the screws and start over.
Either way 20 minutes to an hour tops


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Posts: 2534 | Location: National City CA | Registered: 15 December 2008Reply With Quote
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I agree with everything kcstott said, but sometimes it's a matter of pride.

The 20 min. to 2 hour comment came from a machinist that worked for me. When you asked him how long a job would take he most likely would say "20 min.", usually it was closer to 2 hours. He's still one of the best I have ever seen, you just had to know how to read him......Tom


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Posts: 654 | Location: Denver, Iowa | Registered: 10 June 2009Reply With Quote
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See he's got it backwards. He should have told you it would take four hours then give it back to you in two and look like a hero.

Always pad you estimates


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Posts: 2534 | Location: National City CA | Registered: 15 December 2008Reply With Quote
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Get ahold of Remington trigger guru Neil Jones or just buy a Jewell.
 
Posts: 384 | Registered: 18 January 2006Reply With Quote
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Neil Jones does very good work, he's $70 now with shipping inc.
 
Posts: 1692 | Location: East Coast | Registered: 06 January 2003Reply With Quote
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