What is the going price for a 1910? A realistic price for a clean, unmodified action. Not a bargain basement price, but not outrageous. Also, not what they were going for 2 yrs ago.
thanks,
allen

Considering what a complete custom will end up costing I don't worry too much about whether I got a great deal or not, just a reasonable one. If I decide I have to have one for a particular project I am willing to pay a bit more if necessary just to have it in hand and not spend the next year or two trying to find one for a better price. If the action is clean, complete, and unmolested then up to $350 is not unreasonable, IMO.

That said, I've paid between $50 and $250 for complete actions and have gotten a few decently sported versions for $250 and less.

Parts are not easy to find so make sure it is complete and parts are correct.

I bought a 1910 rifle with no pitting for either $110 or $120 back in January. Now granted that is a good deal, but they are out there if you keep your eyes open. I would expect a good clean action to go $175ish. I have 8 or so and like picking them up when I can

Thanks guys.

That's not too bad if I can't find one for $200-$250 I would pay $350-$400 foor a clean one.

Like z1r said $100-$150 one way or another doesn't make a big difference on a full custom.

We , my wife and I, are thinking of a .250 Savage on a 1910 Mexican and a 9.3x62 on a G.33/40 to keep both small rings/small shanks, kind of a matched pair for her .

Also, what kind of price should I be looking at for a clean G.33/40?

Allen

I would expect to pay ~$400 for a sporterized G33/40, assuming you are not in a hurry to find one. Of course, the faster you need it, the more it will cost you. I have 5 of them and also like to pick those up when I can.

there really is no need to pay over $250 for an exceptionally clean 1910, unless you need one now and have to buy the first one you see.

People say that about $100 here and $100 there not making a difference, but if you shop around for the other stuff and throw an extra $200-400 at your blank, then it will have a MAJOR impact on your final product. But if you are in a bind and bumpding up to a deadline, then you have to buy the first one you see, so all bets are off.

We are not in a hurry.But if we can find a couple of actions at a good price it would be nice, that's for sure.

But I also don't want to hunt for a year to save a $100 ether.

I know some people are good at finding REAL good deals on things unforunately I'm not one of them .

I wanted to know what a fair price is so I don't get hosed at least.I would be happy just to get a fair price.

I saw on one of the gun auctions today a 1910 Mexican in ok condition, the guy was asking $695!

Allen

From what I have seen, if you can find a G33/40 you are stealing it. I got a bare untouched one 10 years ago and paid $450 for it. They have gone up but not like other actions. I would expect more like $600.

Mexicans are close to $200 and up. When I bought the G33/40, I was paying $40 for 1910 Mexicans. They have pretty much skyrocketed.

That saying, $695 is ludicrous. Do not get the idea that asking price on Gunsamerica constitutes the going price for guns. Often it is far from it.

Allen, keep in mind that finding quality bottom metal for the Mexican can be a problem. A 250 Sav on a Mexican Mauser is a neat idea but is getting tougher to do.

Also, I wouldn't suggest using a 33/40 for a 9.3X62. There's no point in using a lightweight action on something that needs to have a little heft to it.

I'd think about finding two really nice 1909 Argentines or 1935 Chileans. For the light rifle, you might consider building a 257 Roberts, 6.5X55 or 7X57 to take full advantage of the action length. Personally, I'd lean towards one of the two larger caliber options just because they are a little more flexible.

A 7X57 together with a 9.3X62 will cover a lot of hunting ground.

I have a 1909 Action in real nice condition (no bottom metal) that is priced at $250. I also have a nice 1936 Mex in pretty nice condition with the bottom metal for $400. if you are at all interested. If not, good luck on finding what you need. (I also have a couple of G.33/40s but they are not for sale) I only said that becasue I have compared all of these small actions to the Short Action Winchester Classic and I just don't think you can beat the short Action classic Winchester as a nice small action for building a custom rifle. Safety is already there, trigger is already there, bottom metal is already there, etc. About all they need is to have the bolt knob changed to a pear shape and have the bolt release tab welded up a bit and checkered and you have a real nice action ready to be barreled and custom stocked.

I paid about $300 for my 1910 action, but it was above average condition IMO. It was sort of a waste because a lot of that shinny metal ended up on Mr Stratton's floor after it was sufaced.

Terry

So $600 to be realistic for a G33/40? I think that would be doable. Not cheap but worth it. Maybe hunt around and luck into a cheaper deal.
Of course my luck I will probably never find one for less than $800!

I was thinking of a G33/40 for the small ring look not so much for the weight savings.

Blackburn lists his model 10 bottom metal for the Mexican Mauser. I am assuming that means 1910 Mexican mauser?

Allen

22WFR I will keep your 1936 Mexican in mind.
Also these rifles are to be special and kinda nostolagic and want them in Mausers.

Allen

How pristine do they really need to be if they are to be sufarce ground?

Allen

quote:

Originally posted by AllenBosely:
How pristine do they really need to be if they are to be sufarce ground?

Allen

Well, for one thing if the outside is nice usually the inside is too.

On the Mexicans one thing you really need to look close at is the bolt face. In my experience these tend to pit more on Mexican's than any other Mauser I've seen. Something to do with the ammo these originally shot I'm sure, but keep an eye on that.

Terry

quote:

Originally posted by TC1:
I paid about $300 for my 1910 action, but it was above average condition IMO. It was sort of a waste because a lot of that shinny metal ended up on Mr Stratton's floor after it was sufaced.

Terry

Do all 1910 Mexicans come with the springfield type cocking piece? I have a DWM that I thought was a 1910 and looks like the above action, but has a regular mauser cocking piece.

Hart

Hart, the 36 Mexican has the springfield cocking piece. The 1910 had the standard mauser cocking piece.

Allen, Blackburn lists the 1910 bottom metal but I have been waiting for some for about 2 years. Glad it was not for oxygen.

Yep, there are a few extra parts on that one. I snapped the picture just before it went to Mark Strattons. Picture was to show the condition of the action. It will be a beautiful rifle one day.

Terry

I have a Blackburn bottom metal for a 1910 that I am using for one of my Guild rifles next year. But if I did not have it and could not wait, then I would just buy a regular length Mauser bottom metal and cut it down. it is not that hard and would not cost too much for some one to have a metalsmith do that for them.

I am also using one of the 33/40's I have for another one of my Guild rifles. This one is a personal rifle that I intend to keep.

If you look at a lot of sporterized Mausers, you can still find 33/40's for lower prices. BUT...you do have to look at a lot of sporterized Mausers to find the cheaper ones.

As far as how good does an action need to be before surface grinding-I have seen a lot of Mexicans that were very pitted below the wood line. You can have a gunmaker weld them up and surface grind them out. I would heat treat all Mexicans regardless of welding anyway. But if it has pits, you better get it cheap, as you will have to pay some one to weld them up. Otherwise you might as well spend more on a clan one.